While most of our readers are familiar with the reliable Prospex diver series, Seiko's Presage collection was a well-kept Japanese secret until 2016 when it appeared on the international stage. The Presage Sharp Edged series combines the best of Japanese craftsmanship with Seiko's undeniable technical expertise and exceptional value, presenting sporty dress watches with a sharp, angular case design that is spiritually closer to the more pronounced shapes of Grand Seiko. The Sharp Edged series was introduced in 2020 with stylish 39.3mm models featuring time and date and interesting textured dials.
In February 2021, the Sharp Edged collection welcomed a family of GMT models that retained the dynamic angular lines of the time and date models, as well as the hemp leaf (Asanoha) pattern on the dial, but also featured the useful GMT function appreciated by travelers. We were fortunate to receive four dial options of the Sharp Edged GMT models for our hands-on review, including the elusive and limited SPB223J1 with a white dial, released as part of a quartet celebrating Seiko's 140th anniversary and available since last month.
FIRST IMPRESSIONS
I must admit, when I first glanced at the Sharp Edged GMT, I thought I was looking at a Grand Seiko Sport GMT Spring Drive. The strong lines, angular surfaces, sharp edges, robust lugs, colorful textured dials, and the alternation of matte and polished surfaces are so similar that an initial glance can be misleading. Undoubtedly, Seiko intentionally marketed this resemblance to attract a broader audience that cannot shell out 6,400 euros for a Grand Seiko GMT but would happily pay 1,500 euros for a well-made Seiko GMT.
BOLD ANGULAR CASE
You can't ignore the fact that the Seiko Sharp Edged GMT is a large watch. It has a diameter of 42.2mm, a lug-to-lug length of 49.2mm, and a thickness of 13.7mm. However, thanks to the pronounced slope of the large lugs, the watch sits comfortably on larger wrists. Both the case and bracelet are reinforced with Seiko's proprietary super-hard coating to protect the surfaces from scratches while retaining bright polish. The finishing, as you might expect, is not as refined as Grand Seiko, but it's done exceptionally well. The lugs have a vertical brushed (hairline) finish that contrasts with the brightly polished side surfaces, reflecting light beautifully. Although the crown is deeply embossed with the 'S' logo, it is not screw-down; however, the water resistance is a comfortable 100 meters.
The integrated steel bracelet is also vertically brushed with polished edges on the central link. Bright polished surfaces are, of course, not the mirror-polished Zaratsu style typical of Grand Seiko, but fairly close. The overall finishing demonstrates an impressive level of detail for this price level. The 24-hour GMT scale - black or blue, depending on the model - is situated on a slightly inclined bezel with Arabic numerals highlighted in a lighter silver tone. The bezel is neither ceramic nor aluminum; it's a steel bezel with Seiko's DiaShield coating to prevent fading over time.
ASANOHA PATTERN DIAL
Like many Grand Seiko creations, the dials of the Presage models often draw on motifs inspired by Japanese culture. All Sharp Edged GMT models feature beautiful Asanoha pattern dials, just like their time and date siblings, the Seiko Presage models. Known as Asanoha, the hemp leaf pattern used on the dial has been around for more than a thousand years, dating back to the Heian period. Initially, the hemp leaf was used in textiles and architecture and, much like the plant, symbolized rapid and strong growth. The rich texture of the geometric pattern creates an infinite variety of shadows and light and a subtle gradation of color. We photographed four models: Aitetsu, or indigo iron (Ref. SPB217), Tokiwa, the color of evergreen trees (SPB219), Sumiiro, the tone of black Japanese ink (SPB221), and the unbleached silky white Shironeri (Ref. SPB223).
Analyzing other elements of the dial, one can appreciate the impressive level of detail and finishing that makes it so special. The applied elongated rectangular indices are faceted, with a matte top surface and brightly polished sides with luminescent coating on the tips. The sharp-tipped hour and minute hands are also faceted and polished, with a LumiBrite stripe running along their back. The sub-dial at the “6 o’clock” position is a date indicator, while between 9 and 10 o’clock is a power reserve indicator, which, in my view, is not entirely necessary in this context.
The arrow-shaped GMT hand is highlighted in a contrasting color and indicates the reference (or home) time against the 24-hour scale on the bezel and the two-tone day-night flange on the dial. You might notice that the color of the GMT hand echoes the GMT inscription on the dial at the “3 o’clock” position. The GMT hand on the Seiko Presage Sharp Edged GMT can be set independently using the crown. This means that without changing the minutes or seconds, the central hour hand can be moved back or forth in one-hour increments.
AUTOMATIC CALIBER SEIKO 6R64
Released a few years ago but new to Western markets, the automatic caliber 6R64 from Seiko beats at 28,800 vibrations per hour and boasts a 45-hour power reserve, hours, minutes, seconds, date by pointer, GMT, and power reserve indication.
CONCLUSIONS
The advantage of not covering these watches in detail until now is that my favorite model, the limited edition with a white dial SPB223, is now available. Released as part of a quartet of limited editions for Seiko's 140th anniversary, the Shironeri or white GMT model is limited to 3,500 pieces and went on sale last month. The blue dial would be my second choice because the green and black dials can sometimes be hard to distinguish; under certain lighting, the green dial appears black, and the beautiful Asanoha pattern is not as easily seen on the black dial.
While the Sharp Edged GMT watches are not intended for small wrists, they look stunning on a large wrist: bright surfaces and the patterned dial draw attention. The finishing is excellent for this price range, and the watches feel sturdy and well-made. Combined with the attractive hemp leaf pattern on the dial and the Japanese penchant for bold, angular Takara Transformer style design, these are truly unique GMT watches. Perhaps the power reserve indicator is not essential, and a bit more lume would be useful, and as a final address to Seiko: is it possible to see these watches in a smaller case size?
AVAILABILITY AND PRICE
As mentioned, the white Presage Sharp Edged GMT model (SPB223J1) is a limited edition of 3,500 pieces and has been available since July 2021. The other three models discussed in this article (blue Ref. SPB217J1, green SPB219J1, and black SPB221J1) have been on the market since May, and all four models are priced at 1,500 euros.
For more information, please visit the official Seiko website in your country.
TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS – SEIKO PRESAGE SHARP EDGED GMT
Case: 42.2mm diameter x 13.7mm height – stainless steel case with super-hard coating, matte and polished – fixed 24-hour contrasting bezel – sapphire crystal with A/R coating, transparent sapphire case back – water resistance to 100m – weight 180g.
Dial: Japanese Asanoha hemp leaf pattern in four colors:
(SPB217J1) Aitetsu, iron indigo
(SPB219J1) Tokiwa, evergreen trees
(SPB221J1) Sumiiro, black Japanese ink
(SPB223J1) Shironeri, unbleached silky white
faceted, matte and polished hour indices and hands – LumiBrite on the tips of indices and hour and minute hands – power reserve indicator at “9 o’clock” – date indicator at “6 o’clock”
Movement: Caliber Seiko 6R64, in-house – automatic – 28,800 vibrations per hour – 45-hour power reserve – 29 jewels – hours, minutes, seconds, date by pointer, GMT, and power reserve indication
Bracelet: integrated stainless steel bracelet with 3 links, matte and polished – triple folding clasp with push-button release
Price: 1,500 EUROS