As the modern world becomes increasingly interconnected, more people are becoming travelers. And with these travels comes the need to switch between time zones. For watch enthusiasts like us, this means using GMT watches.
GMT watches allow you to set an additional time for another time zone. Traditionally, such watches were used by pilots who relied on Greenwich Mean Time (GMT). Hence, the term “GMT watches.” But in reality, you can set any time you like on the secondary dial. If you live, for example, in New York, you can travel the world and never forget what time your partner uses back home. Here, I will present a review of the five best GMT watches in the $1,000 price range.
Glycine Airman Double Twelve
The Glycine Airman Double Twelve model, named after traditional aviators who were the first to use GMT watches, boasts exceptional accuracy for an automatic watch. The watch is equipped with a Swiss automatic movement GL224 with 25 jewels and a 38-hour power reserve. It operates at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour, ensuring smooth operation. You won't even notice it: the Airman Double Twelve has no seconds hand.
Instead, what looks like a seconds hand is actually a secondary time zone indicator. The bezel serves as a time marker. It is wide and flat, with etched numerals from 1 to 12. You still have to keep track of AM versus PM, which is a bit disappointing, but the elegant, functional design makes up for it.
The case diameter is 44 mm, and the thickness is a relatively compact 12.4 mm. The screw-down display case back is made of mineral glass, which is highly scratch-resistant. It provides a good view of the movement, as well as the decorative rotor designed to be admired. The top crystal is equally exquisite. It is domed with smooth edges, but not so curved as to obscure the dial, and 3 layers of anti-reflective coating prevent glare.
The case and glass are water-resistant up to 100 meters, which is sufficient for almost any purpose. The main time is set using the crown at 3 o'clock, and the GMT dial is set at 4 o'clock. Both crowns are screw-down, so they cannot be accidentally pulled out. Glycine complements the set with a soft calf leather strap.
The main index is equally attractive. Thin white hashes mark the minutes and provide a pleasant contrast with the dark blue dial. Larger ticks mark the five-minute intervals, and small numbers indicate the hours. Wide beveled hands with bright luminescent strips at the center and thin metal tips reach the outer markers. A small date window completes the picture.
Christopher Ward C60 Trident 600
The Christopher Ward C60 Trident 600 watches come in several versions, so you can customize them to your liking. First, you will choose between the ETA 2893-2 and Sellita SW330 movements. Each has its unique advantages. The former provides a 38-hour power reserve and can be manually wound if needed. The latter offers a more substantial 42-hour power reserve, though it does not have manual winding. Both models are hacking, allowing you to easily maintain precise time to the second.
The watch case is made of stainless steel and is also available in various versions. You can choose a diameter of 38, 40, or 42 mm, depending on how much you want to emphasize your wrist. One feature of all C60 Trident 600 variants is the almost unheard-of water resistance of 600 meters. If you spend a lot of time in the water, these watches are for you.
The wide unidirectional bezel serves two purposes. Primarily, it acts as a secondary time indicator with markings from 1 to 24 hours. As a secondary function, it also serves as a dive timer. Although it comes in 4 different colors, they are all two-tone, making it easy to track the oxygen content in a diving tank.
For more ordinary users - those who will not be using the watch underwater - the C60 is still very functional. In addition to the external 24-hour index, the internal index is also very elegant. Tiny hashes indicate the minutes, and wider hashes mark the five-minute intervals. The hour and minute hands are painted with white lume. The minute hand is long and flat, while the hour hand has a stubby profile with an extended tip. The second hand and GMT hand are thin and long. However, the GMT hand has a high-contrast coating, making it easy to read.
Farer Lander II
Farer Lander II is another GMT watch named after aviation. The overall design of the watch is elegant, without any modern mechanical gadgets. It uses the “top grade” ETA 2893-2 movement with 21 jewels and a 42-hour power reserve.
The overall look of the Lander II is relatively minimalist, and at first glance, it could easily be mistaken for a regular watch. The case has a diameter of 39.5 mm with a round profile and a smooth curved bezel that provides a medium position on the wrist. The bezel smoothly transitions into a domed glass made of sapphire with anti-reflective coating for clear and unobstructed viewing.
Even at its highest point, the thickness of the case and crystal is 10 mm - a thin enough case to slip under a shirt cuff, even a relatively tight one. The watch is water-resistant up to 100 meters, allowing for worry-free showering and swimming. The watch is secured to the wrist with a Barenia bridle leather strap with a smooth and clean finish.
The dial is a bright aquamarine color, without any obstructive complications. Even the date window is restrained - a small circle that breaks the trend of today’s square date windows. The main indicator is easy to read, with large numbers with white lume at each hour position. Minute hashes are absent, but the hands with white lume are easy enough to read without them.
The external indicator is almost invisible at first glance. The hashes are indeed tiny, and even the 1-24 hour numbers do not stand out much. But the GMT hand is highly visible thanks to the high-contrast red coating, which really stands out. Overall, the Lander II is an elegant, minimalist watch that does not sacrifice functionality.
Orient Polaris GMT
Orient Polaris GMT is another elegant watch that at first glance doesn’t seem special. It has a simple white dial without much embellishment. However, there are two complications worth noting. The first is a small date window at the “3 o’clock” position. The second is a power reserve meter located under the “12 o’clock” mark. It tracks the 42-hour power reserve of the Polaris, so you’ll always know how much longer your watch can run. The Caliber 40P51 movement operates at a relatively slow but accurate frequency of 21,600 vibrations per hour and has manual winding. This ensures precise time to the second, and you’ll never be more than a few turns away from a working mechanism.
The case diameter is 42 mm, and the thickness is 11.98 mm, providing a medium wrist size suitable for most occasions. The flat sapphire crystal is scratch-resistant, providing a clear view of the dial with a utilitarian beveled angle, free of sharp edges. The watch is water-resistant up to 50 meters, so it won’t die in the shower, but you shouldn’t take it swimming. The strap is made of brown leather with an alligator-scale pattern, which attracts attention despite being synthetic.
Hamilton Jazzmaster Traveler GMT
The Hamilton Jazzmaster Traveler GMT uses the Caliber 2893-2 movement. One of the most popular movements on the market, the Caliber 2893-2 has 21 jewels and a 38-hour power reserve for longevity. The movement features manual winding, ensuring accurate timekeeping and a constant power supply.
The case diameter is 42 mm and is equipped with two crowns. The main crown is located at the “4 o’clock” position, and an additional one is at “2 o’clock” for controlling the 24-hour GMT hand. Completing the set is a sapphire crystal with a flat profile and anti-reflective coating. The case and crystal are rated for a depth of 200 meters, making these truly diving watches. The brown leather strap adds elegance and formality to the watch.
The Jazzmaster is an unusual GMT watch since there is no hour marking on the external index. Instead, it is marked with standard 60-minute numbers, which can be confusing until you get used to it. Nonetheless, the GMT hand is easy to read, with its black arrow-shaped tip standing out against the silver dial.
A small square date window decorates the “3 o’clock” position, and the numbers “12”, “6”, and “9” indicate the other main indexes. The hour and minute hands are sharp and spear-shaped, with a white luminescent coating that is easy to read in the dark.
