Another Friday, another top 5! This week we remain in the Rolex universe to explore some of the most stunning stone dials by Rolex.
The Geneva brand has been creating exceptional dials for decades, with stone dials being the most famed among many watch enthusiasts. Transitioning to stone dials this week was easy after last Friday’s exploration of five golden Datejusts. Some of these watches were available with dazzling stone dials, so this time we picked five of our favorites. This week, we’re not focusing on specific Rolex models, but rather on the beauty of some remarkable dials. Let's learn more.
Rolex stone dials have become renowned worldwide. Collectors are willing to pay a substantial amount for them, and frankly, we understand why. Some of these stone dials are simply mind-blowing. Rolex introduced them in the 1970s, and they have remained in collections ever since. But stone dials are not available for every model. Initially, dealers could order them on request for Day-Date and Datejust at an additional cost. Later, stone dials became available for the Submariner and Cosmograph Daytona, as you will learn in this article. So without further ado, let's look at our favorite stone dials.
Rolex Stone Dials - Onyx
Let's start with a personal favorite. As some of you might know, I have a fondness for the combination of black and yellow gold. There's something magical about these two colors that captivates me every time. And while I love the Day-Date or, even better, a gold Datejust with a regular black dial, a black onyx dial is something special.
It lacks indices and a minute track, resulting in a very clean and deep black dial. If you’ve ever seen a black onyx dial, you’ll understand what makes it so special. Forget about Vantablack, Acktar Black, or Black 4.0. Nothing compares to natural onyx stone.
The initial onyx dials, like those in the photos, were available for Day-Date models ref. 18038 and 18238. Later, Rolex offered black onyx dials with diamond markers at 6 and 9. There was also a version with full diamond indices. But they detract from the magic of the dials you see in the photos. The Crown also used black onyx dials for their Submariner ref. 16618. As expected, they are scarce and difficult to distinguish from regular black Submariner dials.
Black onyx dials are the least rare and most popular in the Rolex universe. As expected, I completely understand why. Prices for pre-owned Day-Date with onyx dials range between €40K and €50K.
Rolex Stone Dials - Malachite
Another favorite is malachite. Rolex started using this green stone for dials in the 1970s, and it is still available. The unique green hue and wavy pattern create a special dial used only for Day-Date and Datejust models.
As with the initial onyx dials, Rolex removed the hour markers and minute track so that customers could fully enjoy the stone. We can quickly agree that diamond markers or any other additions detract from the impact and visual joy that Rolex stone dials should bring.
The watch you see in the photo is the Rolex Datejust ref. 1601/8. This all-gold version of the famous Datejust model is the perfect canvas for the malachite dial. Rolex also used malachite in the same pure manner for Day-Date refs. 18038 and 18238. For the later six-digit Day-Date models, malachite dials with Roman numerals can also be found.
As with the onyx dial, I find that dials made from other stones are special and look best without indices. Datejust ref. 1601 with a malachite dial is hard to find, especially on a bracelet. Expect to see prices around €50,000. We see similar prices for Day-Date refs. 18038 and 18238 with pure malachite dials. What you get in return is truly something special.
Rolex Stone Dials - Lapis Lazuli
You may recognize this watch from the photos if you are a regular reader of our Top 5 series. A few weeks ago, I included them in the list of the top five Rolex sports watches with a gold dial. In that list, it was about the Submariner ref. 16618, which was available in full gold and looked stunning.
As stated in that article, Rolex offered the same model with a black onyx dial and a beautiful lapis lazuli dial. Although it is not the only Rolex model with a lapis lazuli dial, it is the most stunning and possibly even the most impressive.
At first glance, the watch looks like a regular gold Submariner with a blue dial and bezel. But as you get closer, the shine of the dial stands out more and more. Some time ago, we had these rare Submariners in our office, and they were simply breathtaking. We wrote an article about these watches, calling them our potential Grail.
Seeing it in real life, I can say it has such power. The biggest problem? Submariners with a lapis lazuli dial are extremely rare and fetch Grail-worthy prices. The same applies to the very few Daytonas with lapis lazuli dials. If you wish to acquire a Day-Date or Datejust with a lapis lazuli dial, your best bet is a Day-Date or Datejust model with a lapis lazuli dial. Expect the price for such watches to range from €30,000 to €60,000.
Rolex Stone Dials - Tiger Eye
The “tiger eye” dial is another Rolex stone dial that must be on this list. While most of us associate the term “tiger eye” with the famous Rolex GMT-Master “Root Beer,” the tiger eye dial may actually be more impressive. Its unique look is instantly recognizable.
Combined with the Datejust and Day-Date, it has a special character, creating a real image of 70s bliss. However, tiger eye dials were not exclusive to the 1970s, they just have an appearance that reminisces that era.
Unlike many other models, tiger eye dials were available only for yellow gold Datejusts and Day-Dates. I think it’s a match made in heaven because a tiger eye dial combined with white or rose gold would be mismatched. Additionally, all tiger eye dials lack hour markers and a minute track, so Rolex kept them as clean as possible. However, admittedly, reading the time on such dials can sometimes be tricky as the gold hands do not contrast much with the tiger eye.
But what these dials sometimes lack in practicality, they make up for in style and character. Unlike previous stone dials, the tiger eye dial is not as expensive. Prices for gold Datejusts with a tiger eye dial on a leather strap do not exceed €20,000. On a bracelet, the price ranges from €25K to €35K. Rolex Day-Date with a tiger eye dial is significantly more expensive, starting at around €40,000 and going up to €60,000.
Rolex Stone Dials - Coral
Our final choice technically isn’t a stone dial. Although Rolex included it among the stone dial options, coral forms through a biological process and is an organic gemstone. But that won't spoil our fun, as coral dials are something different. The coral dials that Rolex uses for their watches have a beautiful orange hue.
Combined with yellow gold, it’s another stunning 70s style statement that’s hard to beat. Such special dials are predominantly found in the Day-Date models of the Geneva brand. Datejust models with coral dials are Lady-Datejust versions rather than the classic 36mm specimens.
As with most previous Rolex models with stone dials, the brand also removed the hour markers and minute track on the initial coral dials. As a result, the dial becomes very impactful. These dials are quite rare and simultaneously very popular. Consequently, they are among the most expensive stone dials. Prices for them start at €40,000 and quickly rise if the watch is in excellent condition.
What you get in return is unique in more than one sense. Not only are the color and texture unique, but the fact that technically it isn’t a stone dial is one of those Rolex anomalies collectors love. Who are we to disagree? But what we love most is the look of the precious coral dials.
Final Thoughts on the Top Five Rolex Stone Dials
That’s it - our favorite Rolex stone dials in no particular order. Obviously, there are many more dials we could have chosen. That’s why we’re interested to know what your favorites are. Let us know in our Telegram channel, and see you next week for another installment of this series!