Discussions about valuation and investment potential can be quite controversial in the watch community since most of us are here to enjoy the hobby and collect watches we love, regardless of their cost. While I personally like to live by this rule, it's also important to discuss the real potential of having a few watches in your collection that can retain their value, or even increase it over time. Today, we will seriously consider some of the most underrated and more accessible Rolex models that can serve as a store of value and even as potential investments for long-term holding.
A couple of things to keep in mind when talking about watches, or more specifically Rolex as an investment: always remember to keep the original box and documents when purchasing the watch, and if you are very serious about using this as an investment piece, keeping the watch unworn and in mint condition will also help it retain or grow in value. You can wear the watch, but it is likely not to be worth as much as an unworn model.
Air-King Ref. 116900 40 mm
Debuting on our list is what is now considered the “odd one” in the current lineup of modern Rolex watches - the new Air-King in a new size of 40 mm. These watches have an awkward dial layout, which is not typical for Rolex, who usually like to stick to monochromatic or very restrained styles. The new Air-King is designed to be a tribute to the Bloodhound LSR project, with its design looking very much like a speedometer in a pilot's cockpit.
You will notice the use of an eclectic mix of colors on the new Air-King dial with the implementation of anniversary Rolex green on the seconds hand, as well as on the Rolex lettered logo at 12 o'clock. Interestingly, they also went with a controversial bright yellow for the Rolex crown above the lettered logo. This is a very unique watch for Rolex and has become a point of contention in the Rolex collecting community, with some loving it and others hating the look.
The new Air-King also shares the same anti-magnetic case as the Milgauss, which is somewhat shaggy and thick, making these watches better suited for those with at least 6.75" wrists and larger.
The strange and quirky style of the new Air-King attracts the attention of collectors and speculators who believe that once this model is discontinued, its value could skyrocket. The fact that this model is also not too difficult to acquire at a Rolex AD is another reason it has made it to our list of the best and underrated Rolex watches you can buy now for investment.
Milgauss Ref. 116400GV Z-Blue
The Milgauss is also another less appreciated model in the Rolex lineup, having less demand than most other professional Rolex models. With less demand also comes less production quantity from Rolex, and when it comes to the Milgauss Z-Blue, it is a special edition watch to acquire.
Sharing the same case as the Air-King mentioned above, it is the dial color and crystal that make this one unique. The dial is a gorgeous deep turquoise blue, which beautifully changes in the light - a dial color that has never been produced before on a Rolex watch. To add to the unique dial, the Z-Blue also features an anniversary edition crystal, which has a Rolex green tint baked into it. The green can be seen at an angle when looking at the watch and is unique to the Milgauss lineup. If you don't mind watches that wear a bit on the larger side, or if you are looking for collectible pieces, this should be on your radar as a potential investment. The wait time for this model may be a bit longer than usual due to the lower production numbers because of less demand compared to other stainless steel Rolex sports watches.
Explorer I Ref. 124270
The Explorer I from Rolex is a fairly well-known and well-loved model in the professional lineup, carrying no secrets and widely adored by Rolex enthusiasts. It's in our list as potential investment pieces because it's one of the easier professional models to obtain from Rolex AD. It also happens to be an anniversary edition for the Explorer 1, so Rolex dropped the size from 39 mm back down to its original size of 36 mm, and they also made some very minor changes to the dial as a tribute to the early classic Explorer’s.
The Explorer I is a general crowd-pleaser because it doesn't do anything out of the ordinary. It has a basic monochromatic layout, a conservative case size, and it also shares the same hands as the Submariner, but lacking the rotating bezel gives it a more refined classic look. It's the perfect watch for a single collection, but in a multi-watch collection, it might be redundant or even boring. That said, it can potentially be a great investment choice for a Rolex since it is a very popular model with a lot of heritage and is easily worn by almost anyone.
Submariner No Date Ref. 124060
The Submariner No Date is the original Submariner, the very one that started the trend of popular Submariners. In my opinion, these are some of the most beautiful watches in the Rolex catalog, partly because of the absence of a date window and cyclops. Because this Submariner does not sport a date window, the dial has a special symmetry not found on other Submariners or relatively similar-looking GMT Master II’s. It may very well be the most famous Rolex or watch in the world, and just owning one allows you to have a piece of its heritage and certainly retain or grow in value.
The Submariner No Date has been featured in countless films, one such being James Bond, and has often been worn by fashion icons over the last several decades. Rumor has it that the Submariner No Date has a lower production number than the regular Submariner Date, making it just a bit more special as a collector's piece and investment-grade Rolex.
Datejust Ref. 126234-0049 Blue Motif, 36 mm
Finally, the only Rolex in this list that is not a professional model is the iconic Datejust, but not just any Datejust - it is the new model with a blue fluted dial with a brick pattern paired with a fluted bezel and jubilee bracelet.
The distinctive feature of this watch is the previously unseen blue fluted dial with a brick pattern, making it a potentially excellent investment purchase that should be much more accessible than the aforementioned sports watches. In my opinion, these Datejust can rival the iconic models of vintage Datejust with linen dials. They are sophisticated and elegant watches that can be worn for both formal and casual occasions, making them very versatile. The Datejust, in general, is a common Rolex model, but this dial is something special and deserves a place in any devoted collector's box.