If you are a regular reader of WatchTested, you probably know that we have a soft spot for independent and bold watches. We love watches created by small teams, watches that break norms and showcase the creativity and soul of the people behind them. So, when a new watch company appears, we seize the opportunity to look at it with fresh eyes and open minds. Today, we introduce Vanguart Watches, a new indie watch company with modern design and complex mechanics, and its first creation - the impressive Black Hole Tourbillon.
THE TEAM BEHIND VANGUART WATCHES
This new brand was founded by four men: Thierry Fischer, Jeremy Frelechox, Axel Leuenberger, and Mehmet Koruturk. Axel Leuenberger, CEO with experience at APRP (Audemars Piguet Renaud Papi), is behind the concept of the watches. Thierry Fischer is the Creative Director. Jeremy Frelechox is the Technical Director, with 15 years of experience at APRP and six years at Girard-Perregaux. Finally, Mehmet Koruturk, Chairman of the Board of Vanguart, has a background in finance and worked at a private equity firm that owned a Formula 1 team.
Additionally, Vanguart recently announced that NBA player James Harden has become a new shareholder. Alongside his stake in the company, Harden, named NBA MVP, has been appointed as a creative advisor and brand ambassador for Vanguart. Harden is a nine-time NBA All-Star and a leader of the USA team that won gold medals at the 2012 Olympics and the 2014 FIBA World Cup.
VANGUART BLACK HOLE TOURBILLON
The concept of these watches is based on a black hole - one of the most fascinating phenomena occurring in space. A black hole is a region of spacetime where gravity is so strong that nothing can escape its pull. Even light cannot get out, making black holes invisible.
The Vanguart Black Hole Tourbillon watches were designed as a unified piece: the mechanism and the case form a single entity. Naturally, the case shape is far from conventional or restrained; it is characterized by novelty, amazing fluidity, and airiness. The curves of the case meet the curves of the dial and end in an opening where the tourbillon is located. Not the most modest watch of the year - but that was never the aim - the Black Hole Tourbillon is meant to impress.
The case of the first Vanguart watch is designed as an exoskeleton to house the mechanism. Available in grade 5 titanium, 18-carat rose gold, or 950 platinum, it measures 43 mm diagonally (wider from 3 to 9 o'clock, yet relatively compact top to bottom) and 15 mm in height. Impressive dimensions, but quite classic in this category of modern independent watchmaking. The case has a micro-brushed finish with polished bevels, emphasizing its smooth curves. The standard strap made of rubber fits well with the overall design and provides a relatively short L2L distance. Various options are available for leather straps. The mechanism that allows strap changes with a single button press is hidden on the back panel.
What truly matters in the Vanguart Black Hole Tourbillon model is the mechanism and its display. Centrally positioned, but slightly offset to the right, is the minute flying tourbillon, which hovers above the rest of the watch. Ironically, the anti-gravity device mimics the center of gravity of a black hole. The cage is made of titanium, and all parts are beautifully hand-finished using traditional decorating techniques. Despite the watch consisting of 88 parts, its diameter is 12.55 mm, and its weight is only 0.225 grams.
The display consists of three smooth, concave disks, designed to mimic gravitational waves and the curvature of space. From the periphery to the center, the disks indicate hours, tenths of minutes, and minutes. This display, called automatic by the brand, is based on three rotating disks that turn clockwise or counterclockwise according to the indication, again giving it a more playful and impressive character. The disks rotate semi-constantly, meaning they do not jump with force, but the movement is slightly dampened to make the disk jumps more noticeable to the owner - it takes 200 to 500 ms for the disks to change indication.
This impressive and complex mechanism is powered by the newly developed caliber T-1701. This hand-wound mechanism was conceived as a grande sonnerie. It consists of two barrels and gear trains. One is used for the regulating organ, the other for driving the automatic display. This function can be seen as an au passage complication, rather than on demand. In total, it consists of no fewer than 775 parts. On the reverse side of the mechanism, you can see an astonishing element commonly found in minute repeaters. This regulator, or fly governor, acts as a brake, controlling the speed at which the disks make jumps, and essentially creates semi-infinite jumps.
The rest of the mechanism is equally impressive. Despite the complex mechanisms, the power reserve is 42 hours. The style is very modern, with bridges and parts having a clear design. However, the finish is traditional: polished corners, satin-finished parts, or elements with black polishing.
The Vanguart Black Hole Tourbillon is not just about complications. The joystick name, according to the brand, also implies simplification. As you can see, on the right side of the case are two crowns. The main crown, the lower one, is used for winding the mechanism and adjusting the time. But unlike a traditional crown, you do not need to turn it multiple times to change the time. Turn it 60 degrees once in any direction, and the minute disk will update up or down. Wind the crown fully and leave it in that position, and time will run continuously. Turn it the other way, and time will go backward. Release it, and the indication stops.
The second crown, located at the top, is used for quick time correction and timezone function, acting in one-hour increments on the main disk. At the 9 o'clock position is the power reserve indicator. But that's not all. At the 4 o'clock position is what is called a "reverse scrolling indicator for countdown." Thus, when you adjust the time on the Vanguart Black Hole Tourbillon with the joystick, small apertures display red indicators to let you understand in which direction time is flowing. Additionally, you can set the watch as a countdown timer with the joystick, meaning after a preset time interval, the display will rotate backward until it reaches zero.
I know, there are a lot of details to learn about this watch. Truth be told, despite the conversation with Axel Leuenberger, the man behind the concept, it is still a watch that needs to be touched and felt to be fully understood. We will do our best to get in touch with them soon.
AVAILABILITY AND PRICE
The Vanguart Black Hole Tourbillon watches will be released in a limited edition of 8 pieces for each material (titanium, rose gold, or platinum) priced at 290,000 Swiss Francs in titanium and 320,000 Swiss Francs in gold or platinum.
TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS - VANGUART BLACK HOLE TOURBILLON
Case: 43 mm diameter x 15 mm height - "exoskeleton" case available in grade 5 titanium, 18-carat rose gold, or 950 platinum - micro-brushed with polished bevels - sapphire crystals on the front and back
Dial/Indicators: Grade 5 titanium discs with PVD coating - hand-painted - time indication on 3 coaxial discs, semi-constant time scrolling - reverse scrolling indicator for countdown - power reserve indication via roller
Movement: Caliber T-1701, proprietary design - hand-wound - 775 components - platinum and bridges made of grade 5 titanium - 3 Hz flying tourbillon, free-sprung balance with variable inertia - 42-hour power reserve
Strap: Rubber strap with buckle matching the case material - other strap materials available on request
Availability: Each version (titanium, rose gold, or platinum) limited to 8 pieces
Price: 290,000 Swiss Francs in titanium case (~315,000 USD)
320,000 Swiss Francs in gold or platinum (~345,000 USD)