A limited edition novelty that combines one of the greatest chronometers of the 20th century with the classic style of the Japanese indie brand Naoya Hida & Co.
In 2025, as part of its 160th anniversary, Zenith brought back to its catalog one of the most important movements in the brand's history. This is the calibre 135, which for five consecutive years in the early 1950s won the title of best chronometer at precision contests. Over a little more than a year, several models based on the revived calibre were released, which became part of the new G.F.J. collection. The latest addition to the collection, the limited edition model G.F.J. Calibre 135 Double Signed with Naoya Hida & Co, launches the Double Signed program.
As can be inferred from the name, this is a series of collaborations between Zenith and colleagues in the watch industry. The first partner in this project is Naoya Hida, founder of the Japanese indie brand Naoya Hida & Co. Mr. Hida is often praised for his exceptional attention to typography, proportions, and finishing. He has a particular love for mid-20th century watchmaking, which is reflected in the new watch.
The model features a massive platinum case measuring 39.15 x 10.5 mm with a compact lug-to-lug distance of 45.75 mm. Water resistance is 50 meters. These are the same parameters as other models in the G.F.J. collection. The highlight of the novelty is the Naoya Hida-style dial. It is made of solid silver and adorned with hand engraving by master engraver Keisuke Kano.
In particular, all markers, numbers, and inscriptions on the dial are hand-engraved. The markers are filled with blue Japanese urushi lacquer, a shade that echoes the blued steel second hand located at the '6 o'clock' position. The hour and minute hands, round in shape, are made of solid gold and hand-polished. The design of the hands was borrowed from Naoya Hida's hit watch, the Type 2 model.
The star of this watch show is the aforementioned calibre 135, visible through the sapphire case back. The mechanism, developed by Ephrem Jobin in 1948, became legendary thanks to its design with an enlarged balance wheel and a large mainspring barrel.
In its modern version, the calibre 135 remains true to this design but includes several technical improvements. The enlarged balance still operates at a frequency of 18,000 vph. The power reserve has been increased to 72 hours, a stop-seconds mechanism has been added, and shock protection has been improved. Before receiving the COSC certificate, all mechanisms in this series are regulated to an accuracy of +/- 2 seconds per day. The finishing matches the latest G.F.J. models. Geneva waves, hand-polished bevels, ruthenium coating, and 'gold' engraving are clearly visible.
The final Japanese touch to the model's design is the inclusion of three straps. One is made of indigo denim (manufacturer - Kahihara Denim factory in Fukuyama). Another is handcrafted in Kyoto from wagyu leather. The third strap is made of Himeji Kurozan leather with a characteristic grainy texture. The highlight of this strap is the traditional Japanese urushi lacquer technique in its finish.
The release of the novelty is limited to a series of 10 pieces. The approximate cost of the watch is CHF 58,900 or $75,000. Expensive, especially considering the fact that last year's G.F.J. novelty with a platinum case was priced at $49,900. However, given that all 10 pieces have already been sold, it is not for us to judge the high price of the model.
