Japanese independent watchmaking has a special charm, often showcasing understated yet complex work with dials and the subtlety of small cases.
After releasing several quiet collaborations, Mr. Hida primarily focuses on a small volume of orders. However, the 2024 releases from Naoya Hida & Co. reveal a more extravagant side of the brand.
Naoya Hida is an option for the thoughtful individual, offering exclusive custom Japanese minimalism. It's a world where dials are made of pure metal, adorned with engraving and obsessively lacquered, but this year sees a colorful twist. Add to this one of the best and quirky alternatives to the Reverso, and there is plenty to discuss.
Unexpected Burst of Color in the NH Type 3B-1
Mr. Hida is known for his meticulous sense of detail and calm development of his small range of wristwatches. At Naoya Hida & Co., the focus is on small, carefully considered changes to the portfolio of 36- and 37-millimeter watches. But in the 2024-25 release, the company showcases new flamboyance and the debut of a rectangular model now consisting of eight references. In the monochrome group of NH Type 3B-1 watches, there is a delightful splash of color. This includes an almost playful green suede strap that works quite well.
The NH Type 3B watches feature Mr. Hida's moon complication and are distinguished by the recognizable purity of a Calatrava-style case. Specifically, this year's Type 3B-1 model features a new rose gold bezel introduced by the brand in 2023, engraved numerals, and hands with a hand-finished feuille. But instead of the usual gold moon phase disc, it sparkles with lapis lazuli engraved with a pure gold moon. If you are a fan of Naoya Hida's almost austere aesthetic, this looks unusual, but the new burst of color makes this model one of my favorites. Mr. Hida will release five of these watches in 2024-25, each priced at $27,000 USD (excluding taxes). For more details, visit the Naoya Hida & Co. website.
Rectangle of Desire - New NH Type 5A
The new Type 5A model is a significant step for Mr. Hida, entering an era of angular revival. These dress watches, 21 mm wide on a thick brown leather strap, demonstrate the brand's purity of style, drawing on an art deco atmosphere. In line with Mr. Hida's renowned standards, craftsmanship and metal purity are encapsulated in details. The contrast with the grainy texture of the silver dial is made by razor-sharp black lacquered indices. A new rounded dauphine hand is located inside an inner dial ring, above which sits a large subseconds register at the 6 o'clock position.
The modern font under 12 o'clock is typically small and balanced, while the large hand-engraved numeral '12' creates a vertical balance with the small seconds hand. While I love the timeless charm of the Reverso or any Cartier, this model offers something entirely different. Despite a hint of art deco, the watch looks contemporary. Under the two-part domed sapphire crystal, the incredibly sharp, elongated indices create an attractive tension against the rounded shapes, topped by a hand-blued seconds hand. Well played, Mr. Hida. Only 10 NH Type 5A will be released in 2024-25 with the new angular caliber 2524SS. Each piece will be priced at $21,300 USD (excluding taxes).
Unexpectedly Ornate Case
Many collectors were thrilled with the first gold versions of Naoya Hida's 37mm Type 1, and I am a big fan of its outstanding small seconds register at the 9 o'clock position. However, with the introduction of the Type 1D-3, the game has significantly advanced. The massive 37 mm case in 18k yellow gold is adorned with a sculptural wave pattern engraved on the sides. Mr. Hida drew inspiration from art deco-style fountain pens, and this is the most extravagant model in the lineup.
Apart from the wave structure on the case sides, take a look at the dial. More precisely, look at the images of the surrounding chapter ring. The new German silver dial has the familiar curved Breguet numerals, perfectly filled with lacquer. But the ring with 60 round minute markers inserts in 18k yellow gold steals the show. This elevates the clean dial design to a new level, and I haven't seen such a technique before. I can only imagine how labor-intensive this process is. And as a brilliant finish to this week, when Naoya Hida turned his gaze to watches, these watches captivated me greatly. The NH Type 1D-3 watches will be available only to three selected clients at a price of $56,700 USD excluding taxes. For more information, visit the Naoya Hida & Co. website.
In Conclusion
I have always admired the pure monochrome, lacquer-free style of Mr. Hida's creations. Adding lapis lazuli and the beauty of minute gold markers, he simply enhanced an already strong lineup. If I had an unlimited budget, with my love for sub-40-mm watches, I could easily envision the Type 4A (pictured below) as my everyday driver for $19,200 USD.
And while the new Type 3B-1 with the moon phase mechanism or the rectangular Type 5 possess rich charm, they both would perfectly suit as my number one dress watches. Each model's run is small, so if you feel the same way as I do and have the budget, you will need to hurry. Only 5-10 pieces of most Hida watches will be produced in the next couple of years.
Friends, what about you? Are you tempted by the 2024 releases from Naoya Hida & Co.? Tell me your thoughts in our Telegram channel.