Don't Buy the Classic Seiko SKX - Choose the Sumo Instead!

I've never been a fan of the Seiko SKX. There, I said it. I understand this might draw criticism from many watch enthusiasts, as the SKX's legacy is indeed significant.

For many enthusiasts, the SKX007 or SKX009 models were an entry ticket into the world of mechanical watches. Because of this, the legendary Seiko diver has long been and remains a popular choice. While I respect the significance of these watches and what they mean to many in our hobby, personally, I don’t share such an enthusiastic assessment. Instead, I found greater appreciation for another Seiko diver - the 'Sumo' model. As it turns out, in 2026, it is the better choice of the two. Objectively, it is a higher quality watch, and surprisingly, the Sumo is now cheaper. Sometimes the best choice is not the one you expected.

Six Years After SKX Discontinuation: How the Market Changed

Before explaining my stance on the SKX, it’s important to understand the context. It has been over six years since the classic SKX models were discontinued. As many know, they were replaced by the Seiko 5 Sports collection, which introduced a new SKX series. Despite their appealing appearance, these watches are merely inspired by the classic SKX and are not their true successors.

The Seiko 5 Sports models resemble the SKX but have only half the water resistance, lack a screw-down crown, and do not have an ISO Diver certification, making them less attractive to fans of the classic diver. These concessions have caused dissatisfaction among Seiko fans, and a hunt for the remaining SKX007 and SKX009 models began. Whether you were a modder or just a collector, the availability of these models in the market quickly decreased.

At the same time, prices were rising. Before discontinuation, the SKX007 or SKX009 cost around 340 euros on a rubber strap and 360 euros on a steel bracelet. Used models could be found for 150–250 euros. For that money, the SKX offered excellent value. However, after demand spiked, prices rose to 400–500 euros.

Today, prices range from 300 to 1000 euros. Prices above 350 euros seem inflated for the SKX, and over 500 euros - excessive, considering that for this money you can purchase new models from Seiko and other brands with more modern features. Simply put, there are better value options on the market.

Why You Should Consider the Seiko Sumo

While not all alternatives have the same legacy, many are objectively better. This is especially true for modern build quality, movements, and technical specifications. But I want to focus on the lower price segment from 300 to 1000 euros. Yes, I found that the Seiko Sumo can be purchased for less than 500 euros. I have the first generation Sumo - the SBDC001 model, and I love these watches. They were my entry into the world of mechanical watches and hold the same significance for me as the SKX007 or SKX009 do for many.

When I saw that the first two generations of Sumo were available in the 300–400 euro range, I realized I had found a much more advantageous alternative to the SKX. Moreover, modern Prospex Sumo models can be found for 400–600 euros.

If you are willing to pay as much as for the SKX, the choice for me is obvious - Sumo. While one can compare technical specifications and quality, that is too simple an approach. Yes, the Sumo is objectively better. But as you know, it’s not just about specifications and price.

Objective Comparison: Seiko Sumo vs SKX007

To begin, let’s compare the SKX007 and SBDC001. The SKX007 has a stainless steel case measuring 42.5 × 46 × 13 mm, 200 m water resistance, a screw-down crown at the '4 o'clock' position, and a lug width of 22 mm. Inside is the Seiko 7S26 movement - a basic automatic caliber with 21 jewels, a frequency of 21,600 vibrations per hour, no hacking or manual winding. Accuracy is from -20 to +40 seconds per day.

In comparison, the Seiko SBDC001 has a 45 × 51 × 13.5 mm stainless steel case. Many might find the size difference critical, but if you have ever worn a Sumo, you’ll understand that the numbers don’t tell the whole story. The case also has 200 m water resistance, but inside is the caliber 6R15 with 23 jewels, a frequency of 21,600 vibrations per hour, and a power reserve of 50 hours. Accuracy according to Seiko is +25/-15 seconds per day, with both manual winding and hacking features.

Seiko fans know that the Sumo movement surpasses the 7S26, as does the overall build quality. This corresponds to the price difference: the SKX was long priced at just under 300 euros, while the Sumo was about 595 euros. And Seiko traditionally justifies the higher price with improved quality. Holding these watches side by side - the difference is immediately noticeable.

SKX Design Looks Clunky

This is especially noticeable in the design. At first glance, the SKX seems clunky. I don’t understand its styling, and particularly dislike the version on a perforated black rubber strap. In the photographs, we compared both models on steel bracelets, but the SKX still seems bulky. The case profile resembles a set of randomly assembled pieces. The short lugs create a thick and angular silhouette. This effect is enhanced by the double notched bezel.

Looking at the dial, the feeling doesn’t change. Look at the steepness of the rehaut - the inner ring under the glass. Despite the concave bezel, the drop seems too sharp. Another contentious element is the day-date indicator. Although it’s a signature Seiko feature, I don’t need it on a diver’s watch. A date window, like on the Sumo, is quite enough.

The SKX hands look too whimsical and don’t match the rest of the design. Overall, it creates the impression that Seiko designers just assembled a bunch of random elements to get the SKX. This has been my feeling since the early 2000s, and after almost 25 years, it hasn’t changed.

Sumo — Best Modern Original Seiko Diver

Unlike the SKX, the Sumo shows a well-thought-out design. The Sumo is the best modern Seiko diver, not being a reissue or a modern interpretation of an iconic past model.

At the same time, the Sumo feels like a Seiko classic. Especially notable is the elegant sculpture of the case. Despite the impressive size and the nickname “Sumo”, the watch doesn’t feel bulky. This is achieved through curved lugs that make the watch comfortable even on thinner wrists (though not suitable for everyone).

The case is crafted with grace: the bezel is recessed into the case, polygonal side surfaces smoothly transition from lug to lug. It’s a complex design that seems much more thoughtful than the “layered” SKX. The dial is matte black, with large luminous markers and a date window at the '3 o'clock' position.

Some may not like the font on the bezel of the first two generations of Sumo (2007 and 2015), where the second added the Prospex logo. The font wasn’t my favorite, although it added character. Over time, I changed my opinion and came to appreciate it.

If you need a more modern font, consider the current Seiko Prospex Sumo model, introduced in 2019. It features an updated bezel design and font, already used in the anniversary model SBDC027 from 2015. In addition, the modern Sumo is equipped with the 6R35 caliber - an updated version of the 6R15 with an improved power reserve. Along with an improved bracelet, it’s an excellent choice for under 500 euros on the secondary market.

Seiko Sumo — A Smart Purchase

Ultimately, the goal of this article is not to criticize the SKX. I understand that not everyone shares my design grievances with these watches. And, as I’ve said, I don’t want to dispute the significance of the SKX, as this series is what attracted many to our hobby. But if the classic SKX costs more than the Sumo, it’s worth considering what suits you better.

The main criterion is whether the size of the watch fits your wrist. If it does, I’m sure you’ll immediately understand why the Sumo is better than the SKX. Given the high prices of the SKX007 and SKX009, the Seiko Sumo becomes a very attractive option. Personally, I have been wearing my Sumo for almost 15 years and still enjoy them as much as on the first day.