AP Under Peacock Wings, Pocket Patek Philippe, Rolex Return

A wristwatch with a white gold case shaped like a peacock. When closed, this model resembles a large beetle, but activate the automaton, and you'll see the wings unfold, the elegant head of the peacock, and its luxurious tail, which serves as the dial.

The tail-dial is divided into segments, painted with green and blue enamel. In one of the upper segments, you can see the hour window. Overall, Audemars Piguet has released a masterpiece for those who don't race against time.

A warm novelty from Zenith's sports collection. The warmth is created by the combination of a steel case with rose gold accents. The thin line between a sports accessory and a watch for special occasions is erased by the mother-of-pearl dial with faceted hour markers, whose counters repeat the sophisticated color palette of this chronograph. The model is limited to 50 pieces. Read more about the watch in the review.

One of 5 new models in the updated Big Bang collection. Hublot has added a factor of multilayered design: the bezel is two-sectional, and the dial is multi-level, playing on the depth of the construction with different textures and colors. Other changes include a redesigned minute counter and a date window relocated to the sector between '4' and '5 o'clock'.

The watch is offered on a rubber strap that resembles fabric. The photo shows a model in a black ceramic case. Read more about the entire Big Bang Reloaded series in the review.

This new model is easily recognizable as the iconic watch of the quartz crisis era. The same muted blue dial. The same light square-shaped counters. The same red accents that, along with a perforated calfskin strap, emphasize the sporty character of the model. And the same crown on the left side of the case, which once highlighted that this chronograph does not require winding.

The model has undergone a series of small updates. Read more about the redesign and other novelties from this series in the review.

A watch that doesn't claim a new record, but could certainly be one of the most striking novelties of this year's Watches & Wonders. In this version, the world's thinnest watch with a flying tourbillon is presented in a platinum case (only 1.85 mm thick). The blue color given to the dial through PVD coating visually divides the dial into zones with time indication, a tourbillon, and a ratchet wheel. The model is limited to 10 pieces.

This novelty is impossible to ignore. That's because the design of the iconic Serpenti model has acquired daring notes due to one small detail: striking studs appeared on the Tubogas bracelet, adding a touch of punk to Bvlgari's classic. The watch is presented in 4 versions, each with studs contrasting with the material of the bracelet.

Pocket watches are a narrow but growing segment of the watch market. As part of the 50th anniversary of the Nautilus collection, Patek Philippe released such a model for the first time. The design of the watch instantly reads the Nautilus style. In addition to the indication of hours and minutes, the model's mechanism supports date, day of the week, and power reserve indications, which, by the way, lasts for 8 days.

The case, which was decided not to be equipped with a chain, is made of white gold. The case design allows transforming the pocket watch into a desk clock. The model is limited to 100 pieces. Read more in the review.

The prototype for this model was a pocket watch from the Patek Philippe museum collection, released in 1958. The watch is equipped with a 43-mm pink gold case. The picture on the dial unmistakably depicts the plot of the fable by Jean de La Fontaine, presented in Russian literature by Ivan Krylov.

This is the first automaton in Patek Philippe's modern history. If activated, the fox will show the current hour with its paw (from 0 to 6) or muzzle (from 7 to 12), and the crow will drop the cheese at the correct minute. Read about other Patek Philippe novelties at Watches & Wonders in the review.

After a 2-year pause, Rolex unexpectedly returned the Yacht-Master II model to its catalog. The watch now features a diver's scale that replaced the countdown scale on the bezel. The countdown mechanism has been redesigned. It can be programmed using the top side button and launched with the bottom one. Of the two versions, we chose the one with a yellow gold case.

The design of this novelty is taken from Rolex's archives. The most well-known use of it was in the Datejust model, released in 1985 for the 40th anniversary of the collection. In general, Rolex released something similar until 2019, but these watches have never been so bright and extravagant.

The printed dial in pop art style is reminiscent of the Day-Date 36 “Jigsaw Dial” model that was released in 2023 and caused a stir after being seen on Joe Biden's wrist. The watch is available in three sizes: 41, 36, and 31 mm. Read more about this and other Rolex novelties at Watches & Wonders in the review.

A platinum case, black dial, and black strap. At first glance, these are standard luxury watches. However, if you make the dial semi-transparent and equip all functional elements with backlighting, the standard turns into a spectacular show. You get pleasure not only from the thoughtful layout of the dial, based on the principles of the golden section, but also from the powerful visual effect that appears only in the dark and under ultraviolet.

The surprise for those who carefully read the model name is that the tourbillon is hidden on the reverse side of the case. In Geneva, the watch was presented as a large, spectacular installation. See how they look in the dark in this material.

A few years ago, we already saw this watch. At that time, it was exclusive, noticed on the wrist of Lewis Hamilton. Now this model is available to anyone who can afford to spend around $80,000 on a watch. The highlight of this perpetual calendar is its unusual backlighting. Literally everything glows - from the case and dial to the strap and rotor. The case is made of white ceramic, and the strap is rubber. Read about other IWC novelties at Watches & Wonders in the review.

Another interesting comeback. The first Roadster watches were released in 2002, and as the name suggests, the creators of this model were inspired by the streamlined bodies of vintage cars. Fans of this collection remember the watch for its massive cone-shaped crown and date indicator with a magnifier stylized as a headlight.

The new Roadster models are offered in two sizes - 47 x 38 mm and 42.5 x 34.9 mm - and in three variations: steel, yellow gold, and a combination of steel and gold. We told the history of the Cartier Roadster collection in a separate article.

A watch with a striking function, the first version of which caused a stir back in 2016. It's all about the unusual sapphire gongs, which form a single unit with the dial glass and make it work as a resonator. Since this is not a minute repeater, the striking mechanism does not activate on demand and does not chime the minutes or 15-minute intervals. This year the model delights with a combination of a titanium case and a salmon-colored dial. Read about other Chopard novelties at Watches & Wonders in the review.

This novelty is positioned as the most complex watch in the “Time Only” category. The case of the model, 44 x 16.54 mm, is made of white gold. All the usual functions of the “freak” are retained: time is set by rotating the bezel, and winding is done through the case back. The central bridge of the open mechanism serves as the minute hand, and the disc below it acts as the hour hand.

An important part of the mechanism is the two floating tourbillons, tilted at a 10-degree angle and rotating in opposite directions. Both are mounted on the same bridge that serves as the minute hand. Unlike other “freaks,” this model features a seconds hand, requiring the developers to reconsider the entire mechanism of the watch. We told the story of the creation and evolution of the Ulysse Nardin Freak collection in this material.

One of the most important novelties from Vacheron Constantin, as it is the thinnest watch in the Overseas collection. The caliber 1120, which serviced previous models in the collection, was replaced with a new mechanism, which took 7 years to develop. The main features of the mechanism are a micro rotor integrated directly into the plate and a suspended dual-barrel construction. The thickness of the mechanism is 2.4 mm. The power reserve is solid - 80 hours.

The case, 39.5 x 7.35 mm, is made of 950 platinum. A lacquered salmon-colored dial was chosen to complement the noble metal. The model is limited to 255 pieces. Read about other Vacheron Constantin novelties at Watches & Wonders in the review.

A triple-axis tourbillon that can be viewed from all sides, thanks to the absolutely transparent case. The base of the case, 43.90 x 52.10 mm, is made of pink gold. The mechanism is installed directly on the case back. The inner tourbillon cage makes a full rotation every 60 seconds, the middle one every 8 minutes, and the outer one every hour. The model is powered by a manually wound mechanism with a 10-day power reserve.

A novelty from the collection born from the partnership between Jacob & Co. and Bugatti. The model's mechanism is styled after a 16-piston Bugatti engine and encased in a sapphire crystal case. All the model's functions are concentrated in the upper part of the case: a tourbillon that makes 2 rotations per minute, a jumping hour and minute indication styled as a tachometer, and a power reserve indicator.

The watch is presented in two versions, with 1 piece each. They differ in the color of the rubber strap and the gold inserts in the sapphire case.