Microbrands today have an excellent platform for showcasing their creative potential.
Whether it's unique approaches to case design or attempts to convey the character and essence of historically significant vintage icons, they always have the opportunity to experiment. The brand Awake focuses primarily on dials and since its founding in 2019, it has earned a reputation as one of the best among independent microbrands for creating expressive and captivating dials. This makes sense, as the dial is the first thing that draws attention, and if a brand regularly releases models with dials that make you stop and take a closer look, then it's on the right track. In 2026, the Sơn Mài model underwent a subtle update, along with three new dials inspired by various celestial phenomena, which have become even more expressive. What exactly has changed in Sơn Mài? Let's find out in more detail.
Case Design: Evolution in Details
As is often said about watches, the best evolution is almost imperceptible, and this fully applies to the Sơn Mài model. Previously, I considered the case design almost perfect: well-balanced, not too thick, and not too wide, it highlighted the dial without distracting attention. However, the latest version of the case changed my mind - even minor corrections to the proportions have added a subtle sophistication to the model.
The case is still made of polished 316L stainless steel, has water resistance up to 100 meters, and is equipped with sapphire crystals with anti-reflective coating on the front and back. The main difference is a thinner bezel that allows the dial to stand out even more. The case diameter has decreased from 39 mm to 38 mm, the lug-to-lug distance has been reduced from 45.6 mm to 44.75 mm, and the overall thickness has decreased by 0.3 mm to now be 11.5 mm. Despite seeming insignificance, these changes are noticeable when worn and are important for comfort.
Guilloché Dials: Three Variants Inspired by Celestial Phenomena
As in previous versions, the dials of the Sơn Mài model are true works of art. Awake retains the signature technique of Sơn Mài hand lacquering but now adds a new layer - hand-crafted guilloché. To create unique patterns on the three dial variants, the brand collaborates with the Renzetti family - guilloché masters with nearly 120 years of experience. Using rare antique equipment, the masters simultaneously control the rotation of the dial and the work of the cutter, creating fine grooves that form the patterns of the Alba, Sunset, and Borealis models.
After applying the guilloché pattern in Milan, the dials are sent to Hanoi, Vietnam, where they undergo the Sơn Mài lacquering process, which takes at least 15 hours. The lacquer is obtained from the rare Rhus Verniciflua tree resin, purified and enriched with natural pigments, creating deep and rich color gradients. The lacquer is applied in several ultra-thin layers and thoroughly polished to achieve a perfect surface. The process concludes with the hand-applied Awake logo.
Description of Three Dials:
- Sunset - the main drapé-moiré pattern consists of about 100 neatly engraved grooves, reminiscent of waves and ripples on the ocean surface. The lacquer is covered with a gradient of purple, pink, and blue shades, smoothly transitioning into each other.
- Alba - inspired by the energy of sunrise, expressed in a spiral guilloché pattern emanating from the center. Warm colors - red, orange, and yellow - create a dawn atmosphere.
- Borealis - inspired by the northern lights and executed in the form of traditional radial guilloché, cut on a lathe. A gradient from yellow to green emanates from the center and shimmers on the ridges of the grooves, forming a multi-star pattern.
All dials are equipped with luminescent, polished, and applied hour markers and hands, as in the previous version, ensuring excellent readability and design harmony.
Movement and Strap: Proven Reliability and Comfort
If you turn away from the impressive dials and turn the watch over, inside you'll find the automatic La Joux-Perret G101 movement. It's a reliable and precise caliber with a 68-hour power reserve and a frequency of 28,800 semi-oscillations per hour, providing smooth movement of the second hand. The rotor is made of tungsten and is adorned with a unique engraving typical for Awake.
The watch comes with Alcantara straps, color-matched to the dial, made by Jean Rousseau. A new feature is the adjustable clasp with a classic pin buckle, ensuring a comfortable and precise fit on the wrist.
Technical Specifications Table of Awake Sơn Mài Guilloché Main
| Parameter | Value |
|---|---|
| Brand | Awake |
| Model | Sơn Mài Guilloché Main |
| Case Dimensions | 38 mm (diameter) x 11.5 mm (thickness) x 44.75 mm (lug-to-lug) |
| Case Material | 316L Stainless Steel |
| Water Resistance | 100 meters |
| Glass | Sapphire, anti-reflective coating on front and back |
| Dial | Handcrafted, guilloché and Sơn Mài lacquered |
| Lug Width | 20 mm |
| Strap | Alcantara Jean Rousseau matching the dial, adjustable pin buckle |
| Movement | La Joux-Perret G101, automatic |
| Power Reserve | 68 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, seconds |
| Edition | Limited to 200 pieces per dial |
| Availability | Pre-order |
| Price | £2,800 / AU$5,150 |
Conclusion
The updated 2026 Awake Sơn Mài Guilloché Main model demonstrates how even small changes in case design and the addition of complex dial finishing techniques can significantly enhance the aesthetic value and comfort of watches. Three new dial variants, inspired by natural and astronomical phenomena, highlight the individuality and craftsmanship of the brand in the field of handcrafting. A reliable movement and quality materials make this model appealing to connoisseurs of exquisite watches with unique designs.