Inspired by the twists and turns of automotive shows, I've always been intrigued by the question of "which watch best fits a certain budget."
This topic translates well into the watch world, becoming excellent fuel for heated discussions among collectors. Usually, these debates focus on choosing a category of watches within a given budget, but I began to wonder: isn't it better to assemble an entire collection for the price of one 'ordinary' watch?
To justify this question, let's assume you received a sudden financial bonus—whether it's a new job, promotion, or sheer luck—and you have enough funds to purchase perhaps the most typical 'I've made it' watch: a two-tone Rolex Datejust 36 mm. Currently, the price for a yellow Rolesor Datejust 36 with a fluted bezel and Jubilee bracelet is about $15,500, enough to buy several watches.
It's no secret that we at WatchTested are big fans of microbrands and small independent manufacturers, as well as appreciating big brands that offer great value for money. With this amount, you can assemble a whole collection, including a chronograph, GMT watch, dive watch, versatile (GADA - 'Go Anywhere, Do Anything'), dress watch, and something extra. With the right choice, you'll still have money left over.
The Rules of the Game
The list presents options for each category in different price ranges: two options from independents or microbrands and one from a larger, well-known brand. The budget is limited to a maximum of $5,000 per watch, to leave funds for the other categories. The idea is for this list to serve as a kind of guide to creating a collection for the price of a new two-tone Datejust.
Depending on priorities, funds can be distributed differently. For example, if you want to have a watch with a well-known name on your wrist, you can spend more on one category and choose more affordable options for the rest. Or distribute the budget evenly and get a solid collection from independent brands that might evoke envy at collector meetings. I tried to choose truly worthy watches that are unlikely to leave you feeling shortchanged. These are not the only options, but if your taste and requirements align, they can all delight collectors.
Chronographs
Due to the complexity of chronographs, this section turned out to be the hardest and can eat up a large part of the budget. But don't worry—there are great chronographs that won't break the bank.
Lorca Model 2
When I first saw photos of the Lorca Model 2 online, I thought it was almost the perfect chronograph. A restrained mid-20th-century style design, moderate case size, and almost full functionality—this was a true hit. After trying them on in person, the impressions were confirmed. The watch sits comfortably on the wrist, the bracelet is very comfortable, the case, dial, and hands finish is excellent, and all tactile sensations—from pressing the buttons to rotating the bezel—feel premium, despite the price. The case diameter is 37 mm (38 mm with the bezel), the lug-to-lug distance is 46 mm, the thickness with the crystal is 14.1 mm (without the crystal—11.6 mm), water resistance—100 m. Model 2 is the most compact full-featured sports chronograph.
Lorca founder Jesse Marchant explained that the case is as thin as possible to accommodate the chronograph while maintaining 100 m water resistance, with wearing comfort lying between the two thickness figures. Price is $2,750. Model 2 is a trump card capable of competing with major brands.
Lorier Olympia
If you love mid-20th-century sports watches, Lorier should definitely be on your radar. With the right dimensions and acrylic crystals, Lorier brings you as close as possible to the vintage experience while maintaining modern reliability and convenience. Olympia is a racing chronograph inspired by the 1960s. The Olympia Contrasto model features a black dial with white counters and a black tachymeter bezel. Case diameter is 39 mm, thickness is 13.8 mm, lug-to-lug distance is 46 mm, water resistance—50 m.
Inside is the Seiko/TMI NE88 movement with a column wheel and vertical clutch. The steel bracelet has five micro-adjustment holes and quick-release spring bars for easy adjustment—a modern touch in a vintage-style clasp. Lorier supplies a polishing cloth and a tube of Poly-Watch to protect the acrylic crystal. Price is just $999. Lorier Olympia has many attractive details.
Seiko Prospex Speedtimer SRQ055
Despite Seiko raising many of its models to the premium segment, the brand is still associated with great value for money. The Prospex Speedtimer SRQ055 model is a great example of this. Diameter—42 mm, thickness—14.6 mm, lug-to-lug distance—49.6 mm—the watch is noticeable on the wrist but remains comfortable. The 8R48 movement is Seiko's in-house automatic chronograph with a column wheel and vertical clutch.
A feature is the case and bracelet coated with Seiko's proprietary super-hard coating, increasing scratch resistance and preserving the appearance for a long time. Double-curved sapphire crystal with internal anti-reflective coating. Price is $2,500. SRQ055 is a great alternative to the Omega Speedmaster for those who find the latter inaccessible.
GMT Watches
Another challenging category, especially when choosing a more well-known brand. But with the increasing availability of GMT movements on the market, the choice of great GMT watches has expanded significantly.
Serica 8315 Travel Chronometer
French brands have a special place in my heart. Many of them manage to combine charismatic design with broad appeal without compromising quality. Serica is one such brand. The 8315 Travel Chronometer model combines vintage style with modern solutions. The dial is logo-free, but the signature design is instantly recognizable. The Soprod C125 movement with COSC certification, column wheel, and independent 24-hour hand adjustment. Bidirectional rotating bezel with ceramic insert and day-night division, with the day part taking up slightly more space—a fun detail.
The new version with the Expedition bracelet emphasizes the retro style while adding convenience. Diameter—39 mm, thickness—12.3 mm, lug-to-lug distance—46.5 mm, water resistance—200 m. There's an option with a crown at 9 o'clock for those who like unusual features. Price is $2,595.
Nodus TrailTrekker
Finding a worthy alternative to the Rolex Explorer II without copying the original is challenging, but Nodus TrailTrekker manages the task. Created in collaboration with Raven Watches, the case has a gunmetal DLC coating, with the bezel and dial featuring Cerakote ceramic coating, giving a tactical style. Diameter—39.5 mm, thickness—11.8 mm, lug-to-lug distance—46.6 mm—the watch is compact.
Inside is the Miyota 9075, a true 'traveler' GMT with independent 12-hour hand adjustment without stopping the movement, ideal for frequent flyers. Quick-release spring bars and a custom clasp with extension make the watch convenient for travel. Price is $900.
Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925
If you want to scratch the itch for two-tone steel and gold watches, the Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925 is a premium 'pilot' GMT from a major Swiss brand. Steel case 39 mm with 100 m water resistance, bidirectional bezel with 18-carat rose gold. Rose gold on the hands and indices adds elegance to the sporty watch.
The bracelet with quick-release links and micro-adjustment, L844.4 movement with a 72-hour power reserve and silicon spring—all at a premium level. Price is $4,700.
Dive Watches
While many of us never dive with watches in the water, many consider a collection incomplete without a dive watch. Thanks to the durability and functionality of the rotating bezel, they are great for everyday wear.
VPC Type 39VM
VPC was founded by Thomas Van Straten, known in the watch industry. Type 39VM is his version of a diver, declared as 'the best everyday dive watch'. These are the thinnest 200-meter dive watches on the market—only 9.34 mm thick, thinner than some 'dress' models.
Diameter—39 mm, lug-to-lug distance—47 mm—optimal sizes for comfort. Inside is the COSC-certified Sellita SW300-1b movement with a 56-hour power reserve. There are options with black and white dials, ceramic bezel, and a choice of bracelet or rubber strap with quick-release spring bars. Pre-order price is around $3,285.
Héron Marinor
The fresh release Héron Marinor impresses. The steel case and bracelet with 1200 Hv hardness, a micro-adjustable clasp, and a luminescent sapphire bezel combine vintage design with modern materials.
Diameter—39 mm, lug-to-lug distance—46 mm, thickness—12.2 mm, water resistance—250 m. The Miyota 9039 movement is reliable and helps keep the price reasonable. Price is $640.
Tudor Black Bay 54
Rolex's sister brand—Tudor—is featured in the list thanks to the Black Bay 54 model. While modern Tudors have their own style, the Rolex influence is noticeable. Black Bay 54 is the most affordable of Tudor's dive line on a bracelet with faux rivets.
Diameter 37 mm, water resistance 200 m, micro-adjustable clasp, certified chronometer Tudor movement. Despite the small size, the watch is noticeable on the wrist. Price is around $5,000. Tudor is now available at our London Discovery Studio.
Versatile Watches 'Go Anywhere, Do Anything'
Although the list doesn't have a classic versatile, a collection always needs a universal and practical piece—'from the beach to the office'. Such watches can handle any surprises and look stylish.
Formex Essence 39
Formex has been operating since 1999 but gained wide recognition with the release of the Essence in 2018. These are versatile watches with high durability and a unique cushioning system in the case, inspired by car suspensions. The cushioning allows the case to move slightly with the wrist, reducing shocks to the movement.
Diameter 39 mm, thickness 10 mm, lug-to-lug distance 45 mm, water resistance 100 m. There are options with bracelets and straps, all with micro-adjustment clasps. Price for Essence 39 with a black dial and bracelet is $1,850.
Traska Commuter
Stainless steel, 100 m water resistance, micro-adjustable bracelet, luminescent hands and indices, sapphire crystal, automatic Miyota movement—everything needed for perfect versatile watches. Available in diameters of 34, 36, and 38 mm with various dial colors.
Traska Commuter is a classic GADA, without unnecessary functions, from $630 to $700.
Citizen AQ4100-57E
For many, 'final' watches are high-class versatile, worthy of a collection. Citizen is exactly such a watch. Super Titanium case and bracelet 38.3 mm, textured black dial, sapphire crystal, 100 m water resistance. A060 Eco-Drive movement—solar energy, accuracy ±5 seconds per year, perpetual calendar.
Although the name is bulky, the watch competes with Grand Seiko in accuracy and finish quality. Price is about $4,000, better to look at Japanese retailers.
Dress Watches
Like dive watches, dress watches are considered a necessary part of a collection. Although modern dress codes do not require them, for special occasions they are indispensable. Sometimes wearing dress watches with everyday clothes is a way to add a twist.
Baltic Prismic Stone
Baltic knows how to create watches that are not only vintage-inspired but also provide a positive experience of wearing them with modern reliability. The Prismic collection is a great example. The 36 mm case combines steel (bezel, lugs, case back) and titanium (case center). The steel mesh bracelet is perfectly integrated, creating a cohesive look.
Inside is the modern manual La Joux-Perret D100 movement, sapphire crystals front and back. Stone dials were initially a limited series, now available in the permanent collection. Price—from $1,800.
De Rijke & Co. Capri
The Dutch brand De Rijke & Co, known for the Amalfi series, offers the Capri model for black tie events. The main feature is the curved sapphire crystal, enveloping the case. There are options with onyx and aventurine dials and skeletonized hands creating a floating effect. The lacquered blue dial with applied indices and small seconds hand gives a more traditional but playful look.
Dimensions: 28.5 mm width, 30 mm lug-to-lug, thickness 6.5 mm, lug width 24 mm—a modern appearance on the wrist. The movement is manual La Joux-Perret D100. Limit of 50 pieces per dial option. Price—$2,195.
Cartier Tank Must Solarbeat Large
When thinking of dress watches, Cartier Tank often comes to mind. Even if you are not a collector, the image of rectangular watches on a leather strap is associated with formal attire. Cartier offers classic models with quartz movements, making the brand more accessible. Known not only as a jeweler, Cartier offers a unique wearing experience with beautiful finishing.
Solarbeat—practical watches with solar charging, no battery replacement required. Dimensions 25.5×33.7 mm, but the watch is noticeable on the wrist. There's also a larger automatic version, but it's more casual. Price—around $3,800, but increasingly hard to find at retail.
Joker in the Deck
If you take one from each category, you'll have a balanced collection. But a real collection is when there's at least one 'quirky' piece that reflects personality, focused on pleasure, not just practicality. Here any options are possible, but below are a few ideas.
Swatch SCUBAQUA
Choose any color and head to the beach. Swatch—short for 'second watch', can be worn without hesitation. The SCUBAQUA collection—100 m water resistance, bio-ceramic and recycled plastic case. Options in red, blue, green, white, and black. Design inspired by the legendary 'Jellyfish'. Fun quartz watches for $155.
Rado True Square X Kunihiko Morinaga Special Edition
The black ceramic square case and open mechanism are already a novelty. But the collaboration with Japanese designer Kunihiko Morinaga adds the effect of a photochromic dial: in the dark, it is transparent, under ultraviolet it darkens, hiding the mechanism. There's no practical use, but it's fun. Price—$3,100.
Christopher Ward C1 Bel Canto
Christopher Ward has long been renowned for exceptional value for money. The C1 Bel Canto 2023 model is a real breakthrough. The FS01 movement, developed by technical director Frank Stelzer, adds a striking module to the base Sellita SW200-1, which chimes every hour.
The titanium case is 41 mm, high-quality finishing, and the price is $4,995. It's one of the best options in terms of value and engineering.
Honorable Mention: Vintage
What is a WatchTested list without vintage watches? If after all these models you still want a two-tone Datejust but are not ready to pay $15,500, consider vintage and neo-vintage Tudor Prince Date-Day. Depending on the age, you can find models with Jubilee bracelets and acrylic crystals or more modern ones with five-link bracelets and sapphires. These are not gold-plated watches—Tudor Prince has real gold bezels, crowns, and center links.
Older models have cases, crowns, and clasps marked Rolex, which gives them the charm of the five-thousand series Rolex, but at a more affordable price. Depending on the model and market, two-tone options can be found from $2,000 to $4,000.
Conclusion
With proper planning, you can acquire at least one or two major brand watches while assembling an impressive and satisfying collection. Of course, these are not the only options—the brands on the list and many others offer excellent watches in various categories for every taste and budget. The main goal of this list is to inspire you on your own path in the world of collecting. While many iconic brands and models have earned their status, there is much interesting and exciting to find beyond them. Wear great watches and enjoy!