Many watches are presented at the Watches and Wonders exhibition, but it's not always the best place to get to know them in detail.
During the "touch and try on" sessions, watches are quickly passed from hand to hand as everyone tries to take as many photos as possible. Cartier traditionally holds one of the most packed sessions in terms of new releases, as the brand usually presents several new models at once. Despite my limited time with the new Santos-Dumont, the watches left a deep impression.
Cartier Santos-Dumont with New Bracelet
During the meeting with Cartier representatives, I eagerly awaited the appearance of the Santos models. My Santos Galbée XL are among my favorite watches, and I am always interested to see what the brand has prepared for the collection. The new Santos-Dumont models in two solid gold versions and one in platinum were no longer a surprise, but I was very curious to try out the new bracelet.

I was fortunate to see in person the 18-carat gold version with a black obsidian dial and the 950 platinum model with a silver dial. Both immediately impressed with their weight. The metal bracelets significantly increase the overall heft of the watches, transforming the typically elegant Santos-Dumont into more substantial and massive timepieces.

The 15-link bracelet is fully polished and perfectly matches the square bezel. The cases have a predominantly matte finish, creating an interesting play of light on the surface with different finishes.

Cartier Santos-Dumont in Solid Gold with Obsidian Dial
It's hard to pick a favorite among the three available versions, but the solid gold model with a black obsidian dial deserves special attention. The polished and gilded volcanic stone, 0.3 mm thick on the dial, is not entirely black - it lies somewhere between black and very dark gray. Its fine texture makes it visually appealing. The gold Roman numerals, Cartier logo, and hands stand proudly against the dial and perfectly match the yellow gold case.

Cartier Santos-Dumont in Platinum with Silver "Sunburst" Dial
The next model is in platinum with a silver "sunburst" dial. It reminded me of my Santos Galbée XL, which I was also wearing at the time. The platinum bracelet gives the Cartier Santos-Dumont the appearance of a true sports watch. However, the thin 7.3 mm case and elegant bracelet emphasize that this model belongs to the more refined representatives of the collection.

The silver dial with black Roman numerals and blue hands is classic Cartier. I like how it maintains the monochrome look, while the blue hands stand out against the silver background. As always, the red ruby on the crown indicates the use of platinum in the case.

The friction butterfly clasp on the bracelet is almost identical to the clasp on my Santos Galbée XL. I like that the clasp opens with a simple stretching of the links and closes with a press. However, I am sure some would prefer a clasp with a button mechanism.

Your Opinion
I know that a light dial goes well with yellow gold, so I am confident - the silver "sunburst" dial looks great in the 18-carat gold version of the Cartier Santos-Dumont. However, I haven't seen this model in person, so for now, I prefer the yellow gold version with the black obsidian dial. Which one would you choose? Share your opinion in the comments.
Technical Specifications
| Parameter | Value |
|---|---|
| Dial | Silver satin with sunburst effect and black Roman numerals / Gilded obsidian with yellow gold Roman numerals |
| Case Material | 18-carat yellow gold / 950 platinum |
| Case Dimensions | 31.4 mm (width) × 43.5 mm (length) × 7.3 mm (thickness) |
| Case Back | 18-carat yellow gold / 950 platinum |
| Movement | Cartier 430 MC (Piaget 430P): manual winding, frequency 21,600 vibrations per hour (3 Hz), power reserve 38 hours, 18 jewels |
| Water Resistance | 30 meters (3 atm) |
| Strap | 15-link bracelet in 18-carat yellow gold or 950 platinum with friction butterfly clasp |
| Functions | Time only (hours and minutes) |
| Price | €39,300 (yellow gold with silver dial) / €41,300 (yellow gold with obsidian dial) / €50,500 (platinum with silver dial) |