When an event occurred more than half a century ago, it's time to forgive and accept.

Not to forget and forgive, but to forgive and accept. In 1969, with the release of the Astron, Seiko launched a process that shook the traditional Swiss watch industry to its core. Swiss mechanical watches faced the threat of extinction but survived through a shift in perspective. Mechanical watches took a dominant position, relying on history, craftsmanship, and unique stories. However, 57 years later, quartz also has its story - one of innovation and universal practicality. Today, as many renowned Swiss luxury brands are turning to battery-powered watches, the term "quartz" is no longer taboo.

The History of Quartz: From Revolution to Convergence with Mechanics

Fifty-seven years ago, Seiko introduced the world's first quartz wristwatch, forever changing watchmaking. This created a deep rift between mechanical and quartz watches, which only widened in the following decades. However, like the tectonic plates of the Earth, the boundary between quartz and mechanical watches is beginning to smooth out. Japanese brands like Seiko, Casio (G-Shock), and Citizen still lead in advanced quartz technologies, but now the Swiss are also developing and releasing interesting quartz movements. They are used not only in budget models but also in sophisticated watches. For example, Cartier has shown that a solar-powered quartz movement in elegant two-hand watches is a smart decision.

Quartz is No Longer a "Dirty" Word

Agreed, a quartz movement is not visually appealing, as it is a static element of micromechanics. However, a notable exception is the decorated caliber 9F85, visible through the transparent case back of the limited edition Grand Seiko SBGP017 44GS 55th Anniversary. Given Seiko's history with quartz, it's logical to showcase such an important movement. Additionally, the watch impresses with the smoothness of its second hand: it precisely stops at each carefully crafted index. As an owner of the Grand Seiko Tough Quartz SBGX341, I can confirm that the combination of durability, Grand Seiko's signature design, and the 9F61 caliber is a model of perfection. This date-free quartz movement is hand-assembled and features high accuracy.

Quartz with a Soul

The 9F caliber and its modifications are gradually becoming movements with a story. The 9F61 caliber, installed in my Tough Quartz, is exceptionally accurate - deviating only a few seconds per year. This is achieved through artificially grown, hand-selected quartz crystals that undergo natural aging for maximum stability. The movement is equipped with a thermo-compensating controller that adjusts operation with temperature changes 540 times a day, ensuring stable performance under any conditions. To power the heavy and mirror-polished hands of Grand Seiko, a dual-pulse motor is used, providing high torque without sacrificing accuracy.

Moreover, the movement features an automatic backlash adjustment system, eliminating visible second-hand vibration. For reliability, the design is protected by a special shield that preserves lubrication and prevents dust and contaminants from entering. The caliber is also resistant to magnetic fields up to 40,000 A/m and withstands impacts up to 5000 g. Unlike ordinary disposable quartz movements, the 9F61 is fully metallic, with nine jewels, designed for service and precise adjustment by experienced watchmakers. It is not a soulless disposable movement but a high-tech product with a rich history.

Swiss Luxury on Quartz with Purpose

The best examples of high-end Swiss quartz watches are the Omega Speedmaster X-33 and Breitling Aerospace. However, Swiss brands do not only produce rugged tools - more affordable brands have been using quartz movements for decades, and in women's jewelry and luxury models, quartz is often the number one choice.

Technologies are evolving. TAG Heuer's lineup is growing in models with the Solargraph movement. In 2025, Tissot will present the PRC 100 Solar Quartz - elegant universal watches with the Lightmaster movement. Cartier released the Tank Must with the SolarBeat movement.

TAG Heuer and Tissot watches can be categorized as "affordable." Solargraph is an entry into the world of TAG Heuer, while the PRC 100 Solar Quartz demonstrates Tissot's technical level. The Cartier Tank Must SolarBeat began with difficulties in 2021. The updated movement received a new photovoltaic dial design, significantly enhancing charging efficiency.

In the original version, light entered through almost imperceptible microholes in the Roman numerals, and in the new version - through numerous microholes across the entire surface. The solar cells are now directly integrated into the movement, rather than placed behind the dial, increasing reliability and power stability. Nevertheless, SolarBeat is not Cartier's main quartz movement.

The Endless Story of High Technologies

It's a pity that Cartier doesn't use SolarBeat more often. This movement is not only potentially more practical than the brand's highly autonomous quartz movements but also technologically more advanced. The technology has many advantages. However, like a smartphone battery, the internal energy storage element of solar-powered watches loses capacity over time. Usually, after 10-15 years, the battery needs replacement.

Citizen claims that Eco-Drive batteries retain about 80% capacity even after 20 years of use. The SolarBeat movement is designed for at least 16 years of operation before the first power unit replacement. When the battery wears out, the watch does not become obsolete - a watchmaker can easily replace the cell, extending the life of the movement for another 10-20 years.

Quartz? Why Not?

Why not use a quartz movement powered by light passing through the dial in classic elegant watches made of precious metals with a prestigious logo? Many well-known brands already equip women's wristwatches with quartz movements. In such two-hand models, the second hand moves smoothly without sharp jumps, which is critical for some. A light-dependent movement is ideal for thin classic watches, as the mechanism is hidden behind a metal case back.

Traditional ultra-thin models from Vacheron Constantin, Patek Philippe, Breguet, Blancpain, and other respected Swiss brands would not change their appearance when using a complex quartz movement. Yes, the idea of a non-mechanical movement in gold or platinum classic watches seems bold. But will future generations of buyers mind?

Perhaps a solar Golden Ellipse "Jumbo" will only appear in a decade. Nevertheless, quartz has long gone beyond the boundaries of budget and tool models. An example of the evolution of quartz watches is the Casio G-Shock. Starting in the 1980s as inexpensive and bright models, the brand now produces high-end watches that can be called decorative tools. For example, the titanium Casio G-Shock MRG-BF1000B Frogman or the premium 40th anniversary G-Shock MR-G Shougeki-Maru model priced around $8000, combining traditional Japanese art and modern technology.

Conclusion

The term "quartz" is no longer a curse word. It has gained recognition among watch enthusiasts who, having forgiven and accepted past events, appreciate and even admire quartz technologies. Contempt for quartz has almost disappeared, but are you ready to embrace two-hand elegant watches made of precious metals powered by light with a price tag around $20,000? Share your thoughts on quartz in the comments.