For anyone even remotely connected to the watch enthusiasts community, the company Baltic, headquartered in Paris since its founding in 2017, is hard to miss. Today, while still operating largely as a microbrand, I see Baltic as one of a few small independent companies ready to make the leap into the mainstream watch industry on the wave of several charming and accessible releases. Take, for example, the buzzworthy Aquascaphe collection - divers inspired by the past, as well as the exquisite HMS and Bicompax chronographs.
I have even mentioned in previous articles about Baltic - including the impressive Aquascaphe Dual-Crown model, which I reviewed in May - that the brand has yet to make a misstep. Even with my significant trust in Baltic's design department, the announcement of the MR01 model, a significantly smaller, more dressy addition to the Baltic collection with a movement I had never heard of, caused slight concern and surprise, as this model represents a shadowy Parisian alleyway the brand had yet to explore. With the MR01 finally on the wrist, I can begin discussing what makes this watch so special and what it might mean for Baltic as a whole.
Speaking of wearability, to date, Baltic adheres to sizes determined by a diameter of 39 mm and a lug-to-lug length of about 47 mm, which combine vintage influence and the aesthetic demands of the modern wrist. The cases are so similar in architecture that the same (excellent) rice bracelet fits all the watches released by Baltic so far, which is a pleasant level of versatility for a small brand.
The new MR01 model has departed from this established set of parameters, leaning more towards a unisex, more average set of dimensions, highlighted by a case 36 mm wide and 44 mm long, which initially seems small, even on my 6.25-inch wrist, and likely on most wrists. The thickness also does not exceed 10 mm with the domed crystal and is 8 mm without it. I am also pleased to report that the 20 mm lug width and overall lug architecture have been carried over from the rest of the Baltic collection, meaning we have the option to use the aforementioned Baltic bracelet - a combination that looks fantastic and gives the small case a bit more presence - though the included dark green leather strap is also beautiful and somewhat different from what one might expect from dress watches with a silver dial.
The case finish is also somewhat higher than that of other Baltic watches: a polished bezel and top surfaces throughout the case, and brushed along the vertical sides of the case. The unsigned crown with a push-in mechanism is polished, as is the exterior of the screw-down exhibition case back. The overall effect is refined, perhaps somewhat excessive for everyday settings, but not at all gaudy or ostentatious.
So, to clarify right away, these watches are intended either for people with small or medium-sized wrists or for those who are more comfortable with such old-school sizes. Baltic also repeatedly uses the term "unisex" in press materials for the MR01, so a broader reach in terms of traditional gender roles was also clearly associated with this design. Despite my love for bulky diving watches that make up 99% of my personal collection, I do not wear these watches and wish they were larger. I think the smaller case size brings a completely new experience and pairs well with the level of sophistication offered here. Despite the smaller case size, thanks to the narrow bezel, the dial has enough space to shine, and it truly does, thanks to Baltic's most beautiful and refined design to date, in my opinion.
Although Baltic deserves and has received praise for its dials in the past, for the most part, they have been relatively simple and restrained in their execution, mostly with neatly printed markers over a plain dial finish. The MR01 model breaks new ground again by incorporating some of Baltic's first applied indices, in this case with polished Breguet Arabic numerals, a central surface with a fine-grained texture, and an off-center small seconds register located within a circular matte railroad minute track.
In terms of color, these watches are available with salmon, dark navy, or silver dials, each limited to 200 pieces and individually numbered. Polished leaf-style hands provide the actual time-telling, and such a combination of dial elements is clean and maintains a reasonable level of legibility while allowing a higher degree of finishing to come to the forefront. Overall, the MR01 looks several times more expensive than it actually is and represents, in my opinion, the most attractive modern option for true dress watches in this price range.
Anticipating the comments section, I will say that the overall dial layout is reminiscent of many Calatrava models and might even be called a traditionally oriented version of the Vacheron Constantin 1921, in some respects. And while we can nitpick and toss around terms like "homage," I don't consider this entirely fair. As with other models, such as the Aquascaphe, which heavily borrows design from vintage Blancpain Fifty Fathoms models, this MR01 model simply offers a taste of those high watchmaking design elements in an infinitely more accessible package. Of course, there's no lume here, as these are dress watches and all, but given the price, compared to how striking and well-executed this design is, I don't think you'll want for anything.
Flipping the watch over, we are introduced to its namesake - a rarely seen micro-rotor caliber that had me bravely hacking through the thickets of the Internet with a machete to find more information about its manufacturer, Hangzhou.
When it comes to Chinese watchmaking, most enthusiasts are familiar with the column-wheel chronograph caliber ST19, powering the anomaly of affordability presented by the Seagull 1963 model. Baltic is also one of the only brands to use this caliber for third-party purposes in the excellent Bicompax chronograph. But for most, "Seagull" is where attention stops in terms of awareness. I consider this a missed opportunity, given the incredible volume of quality watch production coming out of China, including this Hangzhou 5000A micro-rotor caliber, which does not require hacking. Founded in 1973, information about Hangzhou is scarce, but even a cursory glance at some of its calibers shows a level of finishing rarely seen in this price category, as well as some new executions, including the micro-rotor used here, which leaves enough room for this finishing to shine.
Blued screws, numerous visible jewels, mother-of-pearl on the baseplate visible under the balance and the micro-rotor with a Baltic gold-tone inscription, concentric Geneva-style circular waves on the bridges - the caliber is beautiful, wherever in the world it may be. The gold plating and likely machine engraving also advertise 30 jewels, and another mention of a 4 Hz beat frequency and adjustment in five positions is found just below.
And it's not just engraving; the MR01 comes with a tiny insert confirming a daily rate of about one second per day, which is impressive regardless of the manufacturer. Sure, in some photos taken under certain lighting, there are small defects visible on the rotor, which I believe are excess lubricant. But even so, if anywhere else at this price, paired with such attractive watches from such an interesting brand as Baltic, there's a movement with better finishing and tighter regulation, I'd be surprised - and it's clear why Baltic turned its gaze to China when creating the MR01 caliber.
By taking such a step, Baltic advances the entire industry, taming the will of enthusiasts who would normally turn away from most Chinese watches, much like die-hard Swiss watch fans turn away from the idea of buying an SKX. Perhaps it's time for a change, especially with such a strong argument from our friends at Baltic.
To begin something resembling my concluding thoughts, these watches represent a bold step from Baltic in several directions, a brand that could just as easily release numerous variations based on its already impressive catalog of designs, all of which typically sell out. But this is something else. Releasing a classic-style watch in 2021, when most workflows will still happen via Zoom calls in flannel jumpers, is something that makes you think.
Raising more eyebrows is the idea of finding a stunning yet affordable micro-rotor movement from an unknown Chinese manufacturer and calling it what it is, rather than rebranding it to hide its origin, as many major brands do. And finally, if you put it all together: the striking dial finish, the versatile size set, the quality leather strap, the Hangzhou caliber - and all at a price just over $635 depending on the exchange rate, we get a value proposition that allows many more enthusiasts who can't afford a Vacheron to experience the feelings that make high watchmaking so appealing, at a price many can afford.
Chapeau, Baltic, for another well-done job, but now I don't know what to expect next. Although the first batch of MR01 watches sold out with reckless abandon within days of release, another batch is scheduled for early next year. Learn more at baltic-watches.com.
Model: MR01 Silver
>Price: Approximately $627 at the time of writing.
>Dimensions: Diameter: 36 mm; Lug-to-lug: 44 mm; Thickness: 9.9 mm; Lug width: 20 mm.
>When the review reader will wear them personally: I don't often dress up, but when I do, this will be just right. Maybe I should start attending weddings?
>The friend we would recommend them to first: A fan of high watch brands and design with a budget larger than a used Honda Accord.
>Best feature of these watches: While the dial is truly beautiful, I am amazed by what Hangzhou and Baltic have done with this caliber at this price. It's stunning.
>Worst feature of these watches: It would be nice to see tighter quality control regarding what's on the rotor, but honestly, I share the opinions that these are excellent watches for the price from almost any perspective.