When people talk about Rolex today, the first things that come to mind are long waiting lists, high prices on the secondary market, and demand that has significantly exceeded supply for many years.
Almost no other watch manufacturer manages to keep sports models as in demand as the brand with the crown. Whether it's the Rolex Submariner, Rolex GMT-Master II, or Rolex Daytona - many models are available from official dealers only with patience or the right connections. However, such an impression is misleading because in the past even Rolex experienced difficulties selling certain models. Some watches stood in store windows for months or even years, others were sold at a discount or lived in the shadows of the brand's main icons. Surprisingly, many of these 'slow-selling' models are now among the most collectible Rolex watches. How did this happen? And why did those Rolex models, which collectors now actively seek, once go almost unnoticed?
Rolex Daytona: From Slow-Selling Model to Most Desired in the World
Before moving on to specific examples, it's worth considering perhaps the brand's most impressive success. Today, Rolex Daytona is considered one of the most coveted luxury watches of all time. Especially steel models are often sold on the secondary market at prices multiple times higher than the original. However, in the 1960s-1980s, the situation was entirely different.
Daytonas of those years were equipped with a mechanical winding mechanism, while automatic chronographs were becoming increasingly popular. Moreover, motorsport did not appeal to all buyers, and chronographs, in general, were less in demand than classic three-hand watches. As a result, many official dealers had difficulty selling the Rolex Daytona. In some cases, the watches stood in display cases for years or were sold at significant discounts. The turning point came only at the end of the 1980s, when Rolex introduced an automatic Daytona with a Zenith movement, perfectly matching the spirit of the times. Since the release of the first in-house movement in 2000, the Daytona has become a cult model, becoming an integral part of the watch world.
Rolex That Nobody Wanted to Buy But Became Iconic
If even the in-demand Daytona once sold poorly, it's not surprising that other models faced difficulties.
Product of Its Time: Rolex Oysterquartz
Few other Rolex models evoke such mixed opinions as the Rolex Oysterquartz. In the 1970s, the Swiss watch industry was experiencing the quartz crisis. Cheap and accurate quartz watches from Japan posed a serious threat to traditional manufacturers. Rolex responded by creating the Oysterquartz model. Unlike many inexpensive quartz watches of the time, the brand did not choose a simple solution. High-quality quartz calibers 5035 and 5055 were developed, distinguished by meticulous finishing and high precision.
However, this was precisely the problem - production was expensive. Buyers looking for quartz watches often preferred cheaper options, and those willing to spend a significant amount on a Rolex preferred mechanical models. Moreover, the angular case with an integrated bracelet was very different from the classic Oyster models. For many, the design was too modern. At the time, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak became a sensation, and many brands borrowed ideas from Gerald Genta. Today, the situation has changed dramatically: thanks to its unusual design, relatively small production run, and special place in the brand's history, the Rolex Oysterquartz has acquired cult status. With the release of the Rolex Land-Dweller model, interest in Oysterquartz has risen again.
Model Ahead of Its Time: Rolex Turn-O-Graph
The history of the Rolex Turn-O-Graph is almost ironic - it was truly ahead of its time. Already in the 1950s, the Turn-O-Graph received a rotating bezel, becoming the first Rolex model with such an element. It is one of the most important predecessors of the Rolex Submariner, released shortly thereafter. Nevertheless, the model never became a bestseller.
The main reason was its place in the collection. The Turn-O-Graph found itself between the elegant Rolex Datejust and the sporty Submariner. For many buyers, this meant that the watch was neither one nor the other. Buyers looking for classic wristwatches chose the Datejust, while fans of sports models chose the Submariner. The Turn-O-Graph often remained in the shadows. Meanwhile, it offered an interesting combination of elegance and functionality, which today seems particularly relevant. After being discontinued, public opinion gradually changed: more and more collectors began to appreciate the historical significance of the model and its originality, which was once its weakness.
Underrated Traveler's Watches: Rolex Explorer II
The Rolex Explorer II encountered difficulties from the very beginning. While the Rolex Explorer was created as a simple expedition watch, the Explorer II was specifically designed for speleologists, polar explorers, and those who spend extended periods in conditions without daylight. The fixed 24-hour bezel and additional hand helped distinguish day from night. However, in everyday life, this feature was needed by very few. Additionally, the Explorer II competed with two collection favorites: the Submariner and GMT-Master (later GMT-Master II).
Many buyers preferred diver or GMT watches with a rotating bezel. For many years, the Explorer II was considered a 'secret tip' for connoisseurs. However, with the growing interest in vintage models, perception changed. Especially the first version 1655 with a bright orange 24-hour hand became one of the most sought-after vintage Rolex models. Later versions, such as the 16570, are also popular due to their character and intentional distinction from well-known sports models.
'Nerdy' Watches: Rolex Milgauss
The Rolex Milgauss was also a model ahead of its time. As early as 1956, Rolex created it for scientists, engineers, and technicians working in strong magnetic fields. Thanks to a special soft-iron cage, the watch could withstand magnetic fields up to 1000 gauss - hence the name. The problem was obvious: the target audience for this technical model was too narrow.
While almost everyone admired diver watches or chronographs, few needed protection from magnetic fields. After a long hiatus, Milgauss production resumed in 2007. The reference 116400GV attracted attention with its green sapphire crystal and lightning-bolt-shaped second hand. However, the design was controversial: some admired its unusualness, while others found it too eccentric for Rolex. Significant changes in perception occurred after the model was discontinued in 2023. Many collectors recognized the uniqueness of Milgauss within the entire Rolex collection. It is this independence that makes it especially attractive today. Is a return of Milgauss expected soon?
Why Do Slow-Selling Models Become Collectible?
While working on this article, I came to an interesting conclusion: it wasn't the watches that changed, but us - their owners and collectors. In the past, watches were primarily purchased for practical reasons. Although Rolex was always considered a luxury item, it was often intended for lifetime wear and had to be as versatile as possible. Therefore, many chose versatile models for everyday use, such as the Submariner or Datejust. Nowadays, for many, watches are an expression of personality and interests.
Let's not deceive ourselves: classic models like the Submariner, Datejust, GMT-Master II, and Daytona are still at the peak of popularity. However, once collectors acquire several watches, the dynamics change: they consciously seek models with character, history, or unique technical features. This is why today, attention is increasingly directed to those Rolex models that once remained in the shadows. The irony is that these 'forgotten' models are now becoming the main beneficiaries of the new demand.