What invention in watchmaking can be called the best? This is not an easy question, but let's try to figure it out.
I asked myself the same question and concluded that the crown is a key element of wristwatches. Thanks to Jean-Adrien Philippe, it became an integral part of watches. Now Minerva presents The Unveiled Crownless model - watches that challenge Philippe's invention and my answer to this question. Let's take a closer look at these round, symmetrical watches with an unusual design that boldly implement a rare and intriguing concept - a watch without a crown.
The History and Significance of the Crown in the Watch Industry
Jean-Adrien Philippe (1815–1894), co-founder of Patek Philippe, invented what is present in 99.9% of all wristwatches today - the crown. At 25, he created his first mechanisms, and in 1842 he realized a revolutionary idea: a way to wind pocket watches and set the hands without a key. Instead of a separate key, a crown directly connected to the mechanism inside the case appeared. Philippe described his system as "simpler, more reliable, and more convenient than anything before." But what if we abandon the crown and use a keyless method of winding and setting through the bezel? Minerva The Unveiled Crownless proves that this is the next stage in the evolution of watchmaking.
The Concept of Minerva The Unveiled Crownless
Today crowns come in all shapes and sizes: some screw down for water resistance, others are hidden and retractable. There are watches that wind and set through the case back, but they are rare. Most watches, from simple to complex, use a crown - a function we take for granted but that deserves respect. Minerva understands the importance of the crown, and perhaps that is why they created The Unveiled Crownless - a watch without a crown, where its functions are performed by the bezel.
Interestingly, as early as 1927, Minerva from Villeret, Switzerland, released military watches with a time management function through the bezel. Almost a hundred years later, the brand presented The Unveiled Timekeeper - a chronograph with bezel control, but with a crown. The Unveiled Crownless abandoned the chronograph and the crown, leaving the bezel for practical functions.
Design and Control Features
The view of perfectly round classic watches without a crown at first seems unusual and incomplete. Over time, the feeling of incompleteness changes to curiosity - you want to understand what replaced the crown and how it works.
The role of the crown is performed by a fluted bezel made of rose gold. The bezel is bidirectional, but to interact with the mechanism, you need to find a hidden lever. Turn the watch over - the lever is located next to the engraving "3 bar" (water resistance). Press the lever - the bezel rotates and winds the mechanism. Pull the lever - the bezel allows you to set the time. The system looks delicate and inconspicuous but feels reliable. The fluted structure of the bezel provides a comfortable grip, and winding and setting are smooth and easy. This is a new experience that distinguishes the watch owner.
Classic Style and Modern Proportions
The steel case with a diameter of 41.5 mm and a thickness of just under 12 mm is not a vintage thin watch, but a modern elegant accessory. The long lugs of the case curve downwards, ensuring a comfortable fit on the wrist. The absence of a crown eliminates pressure on the back of the hand - the opposite of Chronoswiss Timemaster watches with a large crown.
Many details emphasize the model's status. A rose gold plaque engraved with "Depuis 1858" on the left side of the case is one of them. The dial is inspired by Minerva watches from the 1950s, combining an opaline center and a finely guilloché outer circle. The warm cream color harmonizes with the design, and the contrasting textures play beautifully with the light without being intrusive. The vintage domed sapphire crystal with double-sided anti-reflective coating protects the dial and ensures excellent readability.
The applied faceted hour markers give the dial sophistication that matches the concept and level of finish. Most of the indices are trapezoidal, with contrasting triangular markers at 3 and 9 o'clock. The large Arabic numeral 12, covered in rose gold, stands out particularly. Large rose-gold sword-shaped hands continue the classic theme, as does the recessed small seconds subdial at 6 o'clock. The dial is perfectly balanced in a round frame, which is unusual due to the absence of the familiar crown.
New Mechanism - New Level
Minerva is associated with meticulously finished mechanisms and a signature arrow hand. The mechanism in The Unveiled Crownless is visible through the transparent case back and abounds with decorative elements: rhodium-plated German silver, Geneva stripes, polished bevels, and circular graining. The highlight is a large balance with a free-sprung hairspring and a regulator in the shape of an arrow.
The absence of a crown required the creation of a unique mechanism. The caliber M15.08 was developed specifically for this model and entirely manufactured in Minerva's workshops in Villeret. Its architecture is based on the caliber 1858 Geosphere Annual Calendar and traces back to the historical Pythagore 10-48 caliber created by André Frey in 1943. The hand-wound mechanism operates at the traditional frequency of 18,000 semi-oscillations per hour, and the large mainspring provides a power reserve of up to 80 hours.
The Experience of Wearing The Unveiled Crownless
Do you feel the absence of a crown when wearing the watch? In fact, no. Once the watch is on the wrist, the appearance is quickly perceived as familiar. But the control of the watch remains unusual and provides pleasure to true watch enthusiasts. Unlike a chronograph, which can be started, stopped, and reset, here after setting and winding, the watch does not require constant interaction. Nevertheless, they will become an interesting topic of discussion, as they are unusual and evoke surprise - and that is a matter of taste.
Minerva deserves respect for the courage to release such an original model. The watch comes with a dark green (almost black) alligator strap, 21 mm wide, and a stainless steel triple-folding clasp with a fine adjustment system. A small arrow on the clasp is a nice touch.
Evaluation of Value and Conclusion
The originality of The Unveiled Crownless makes it difficult to evaluate the price at €39,000 / $38,000. Comparing these watches with other models is challenging. To understand the price, it is worth considering the meticulously handcrafted dial and the new proprietary mechanism. The model is clearly the result of passion, craftsmanship, and boldness. After all, how else could you dare to remove the crown and still expect the watch to work?
What are your impressions of the Montblanc The Unveiled Crownless? Does this innovative approach suit you, or do you prefer the classic crown? Share your opinion in the comments.