Not long ago, it seemed laughable that a Japanese watch brand could not only withstand the test of time but also become a household name and earn respect in the watch world alongside its Swiss counterparts.
While Seiko still has some way to go in this regard, over the years it has more than proven its worth.
If you need beautiful and functional watches that you can rely on day in and day out, you will find more than one specimen in Seiko's catalog. And although they are still trying to shake off the association with being a "discount brand", it is impossible to deny their global influence on the watch industry and the company's rising stock. Today, we'll take a closer look at their offerings and highlight the best men's Seiko watches.
Best Seiko Watches
History and Origin of Seiko
While many consider Seiko a more modern brand, the company actually started its journey in 1881. That year, a young entrepreneur named Kintaro Hattori opened a small shop in central Tokyo, where he began selling and repairing clocks - from ordinary wall clocks to pocket watches. In 1892, he began producing his own clocks under the name Seikosha - a Japanese word consisting of two parts: "Seiko" translates to "exquisite", "minute", and/or "successful", and "sha" means "house". Then, in 1895, Seikosha released Japan's first pocket watches, which paved the way for the creation of the first wristwatches in 1913, also made by Seikosha.
In 1924, after a major fire destroyed the factory, the Japanese watch company rebranded and became known as Seiko, beginning a long, arduous, and successful journey to becoming one of the most important and influential brands in the world. Since then, they have created official watches for Japan's railways, the Tokyo Olympics, the 8th Japanese Antarctic Research Expedition, and much more.
And while all this is enough to make Seiko a famous brand, they also helped create many firsts in chronometry. Among them are the unique patented automatic winding system, the first Japanese watches with a stopwatch function, Japan's first diving watches, the world's first quartz watches, the first diving watches with a titanium case, and much more. As you can see, Seiko is not just a budget watch brand. They are pioneers deserving much more respect than they have received. We hope this brief history and the following excellent watches will help show just how remarkable they truly are.
Why People Love Seiko
You will surely notice that Seiko, unlike any other watch brand, is loved by casual watch owners, beginners, and passionate veteran enthusiasts alike. There are many reasons why this brand is so unique, and here are just a few of them:
- Versatility: Unlike many watch companies that specialize in one or two types of watches, Seiko dominates practically all categories, from divers to chronographs, from dress to field watches, and everything in between.
- Style: Along with versatility, Seiko manages to give each of its models its own signature style. It's no wonder vintage Seiko watches are as popular as the new models.
- Price: Perhaps what attracts many newcomers to Seiko is that they bring their impressive watches to market at such affordable prices. In fact, many of their watches priced at $400 and $500 are much more desirable than watches from other brands costing several thousand dollars.
- Movements: One of the hallmarks of Japanese watchmakers is their focus on technical advancements in horology, and Seiko is the greatest manufacturer in this regard. A range of its own movements is impressive in itself. As for the subsidiary Grand Seiko, the Spring Drive and 9S movements are perhaps the best in the world.
Flagship Seiko Collections
Seiko has many remarkable watch collections, but the flagship collections are the 5 Sports, Prospex, and Presage lines. We've compiled a list of three favorites from each, along with a bonus pick from Seiko's sub-brand - Grand Seiko.
5 Sports
Versatile Watches
When the popular SKX line was discontinued in 2019, Seiko enthusiasts thought all hope was lost. Fortunately, the 5 Sports line came to replace it - an inherited series that was first introduced in the 60s with the goal of giving adventure lovers the opportunity to accompany their journeys. The 5 key principles are an automatic movement, stainless steel case, high water resistance, day/date window, and a recessed crown at 4 o'clock. Today, the 5 Sports line is arguably the most versatile in the brand.
Seiko 5 Sports SKX Style
These SKX Style watches are reminiscent of the discontinued model and simultaneously represent the revived 5 Sports line.
Best Overall: These SKX Style watches, a representative of the 5 Sports line, are the perfect choice: vintage style and timeless design will turn anyone into a Seiko fan. Encased in a 42.5mm stainless steel case with 100-meter water resistance, these SSK001 watches feature a GMT function, making you want to have them on your wrist wherever you go. A few years ago, the Japanese watch company discontinued its beloved SKX line, and as a result, it began producing marine versions of the 5 Sports line that absorbed what fans loved about their predecessors.
- Case Size: 42.5 mm
- Movement: Automatic GMT with manual winding
- Type: Dive GMT
Seiko 5 Sports Automatic Cub
Paying homage to Seiko's long-time partner, these retro-colored watches have a unique design for those not needing a straightforward diver.
Winner: Without (a few) stricter limitations than other Seiko lines, the brand can use its 5 Sports collection to create truly amazing watches, such as these collaborative watches with Honda, honoring one of the best-selling vehicles of all time - the Cub. Limited to 7,500 pieces, these watches feature a cool retro color scheme in a 42.5 steel case, as well as some other inspiring elements, such as the dial design reminiscent of the front of a motorcycle, where headlights and blinkers are located at the 12 o'clock position. The crown also features a fuel level indicator, and the nylon strap gives the watches a fitting aesthetic. This is a must-have for any motorcycle enthusiast, at an incredible price.
- Case Size: 42.5 mm
- Movement: Automatic GMT with manual winding
- Type: Dive
Seiko 5 Sports Field Style
These field watches prefer discernibility and are robust enough to accompany you on your next adventures.
Also Great: As proof of how good a bargain Seiko watches really are, this Field Style model, costing you less than $300, still comes with an automatic movement with manual winding. This means you'll never have to change batteries, charge them, or anything else. The watches belong to the 5 Sports series and are aimed at outdoor activities. They feature a sturdy stainless steel case, 100m water resistance, and a durable yet comfortable nylon strap. The dial itself is interesting: minute markers (counting by 5) have taken the places where hour markers usually reside. Believe it or not, this actually improves the speed of reading the time: the hours are transferred to the inner dial.
- Case Size: 39.4 mm
- Movement: Automatic GMT with manual winding
- Type: Field
The Prospex collection, decoded as "professional specifications", is a series of Seiko diving watches. These sport-oriented watches are on average a bit more expensive than 5 Sports watches, but still quite affordable. The Prospex series includes divers, chronographs, pilot watches, and more, as well as limited series and retro reissues.
Seiko Prospex PADI Edition Diver
One of the best diver models in the world, this PADI Edition model features a beautiful water-themed dial and retro design.
Best Overall: One of the main stars of the Prospex Sea series, the PADI Edition Diver, of which several variants have been released, was created in tandem with a long-time partner - the Professional Association of Diving Instructors. The SRPK01 model shown above has a beautiful blue dial reminiscent of ocean ripples. Definitely based on the discontinued SKX model (once again), the PADI divers appropriately increase water resistance to 200m (unlike the 5 Sports SKX Style watches, which remain at 100m) and equip them with large 45mm steel cases with a date window.
- Case Size: 45 mm
- Movement: Automatic GMT with manual winding
- Type: Diving
Seiko Prospex Speedtimer Chronograph
This version of the Prospex Speedtimer from Seiko is a bright iteration of some of the company's most iconic watches.
Winner: In 1969, Seiko introduced the world's first automatic chronograph watch. Last year, they marked the occasion with a limited series that looked very vintage. But now the brand has made new models available, combining retro and modernity. These Speedtimers also boast a solar-powered movement - a rarity in the world of chronographs - which provides 6 months of operation on a full charge. And for those looking for a bezel in the Pepsi style, this SSC913 reference is perhaps the best the Japanese brand has to offer.
- Case Size: 41.4 mm
- Movement: Solar
- Type: Chronograph
Seiko Prospex SNJ025 Solar Hybrid Diver “Arnie”
A reissue of a classic model used by the namesake actor - a cool diver from Seiko with a large case, 200m depth rating, and solar charging.
Also Great: Seiko is no stranger to retro reissues, but few of its models have caused such a stir as the Prospex SNJ025, known as the “Arnie” watch due to its association with Arnold Schwarzenegger. These watches, which adorned the actor's wrist in the movies "Predator" and "Commando", first debuted in 1982 as the first diver's chronograph that combined a digital alarm with a hybrid analog display. Not differing much cosmetically from the original, the reissue added a solar charging function with a 6-hour power reserve and increased water resistance to 200m. And yes, this model is housed in a massive 47.8mm stainless steel case, which may be too large for some.
- Case Size: 47.8 mm
- Movement: Solar
- Type: Diving
While the 5 Sports and Prospex collections are undoubtedly more popular with people, the Presage collection is exactly where Seiko manages to stand out from the competition. Focusing on dress watches, the watch company demonstrates that it knows no bounds. The Presage collection, released in 2016, is perhaps the most versatile in the watch world.
Seiko Presage Cocktail Time
Inspired by Japan's cocktail lounge scene, this fan-favorite collection of dress watches is incredibly elegant and features a unique design language.
Best Overall: Inspired by mixology and the local cocktail lounge scene in Tokyo, Cocktail Time watches have achieved cult popularity since their appearance in 2010. In 2017, this concept received its own line within the Presage line and became a fan favorite. Known for their elegant sunray-patterned dials, high domed crystals, and unique hour marker designs, the watches are inspired by specific drinks, and the overall aesthetic is the perfect touch of class reminiscent of the lounges themselves. The watches are equipped with an in-house automatic caliber 4R35, visible through the case back.
- Case Size: 40.5 mm
- Movement: Automatic with manual winding
- Type: Dress
Seiko Presage ‘60s Style SRPH95
No other watch proves Seiko's versatility like these: they are a cross between everyday and dress watches with some mid-century charm.
Winner: Few watch companies would dare to reissue a retro chronograph as a time-only watch. But that's exactly what Seiko did with the SRPH95 model, part of the Presage '60s Style line. It harkens back to Japan's first stopwatch-equipped watch - the Crown Chronograph, released by Seiko in 1964. However, this new version is not a chronograph, although it is equipped with a 60-second bezel to facilitate timekeeping. Demonstrating the versatility of the Presage collection, these watches can serve as more than adequate everyday wear, featuring a sleek aesthetic, great readability, and deceptively unique taste.
- Case Size: 40.8 mm
- Movement: Automatic with manual winding
- Type: Casual
Seiko Presage Craftsmanship 110th Anniversary
Seiko honors its first wristwatch by releasing an exact replica, maintaining its design for 110 years.
Also Great: This year marks the 110th anniversary of Seiko's first wristwatch - the Laurel, which debuted in 1913. To commemorate this, the Japanese watch company released the Presage Craftsmanship series to reissue these watches. Seiko has faithfully recreated the shape of the case, hands, and dial, right down to the font of the numerals and the red 12-hour marker. Even the enamel dial material was reproduced with the help of a Japanese enamel master. The proportions of the watch are also precise: the diameter and lug height are 37.5 mm. Of course, there are modern touches: 50m water resistance, anti-reflective sapphire glass, and an in-house automatic caliber 6R27 with a 45-hour power reserve. The watch is limited to 2,500 pieces and is adorned with a brown deer leather strap.
- Case Size: 37.5 mm
- Movement: Automatic with manual winding
- Type: Vintage Dress
Grand Seiko
A Legend in Its Own Right
Having gained independence and autonomy (since 2017), Grand Seiko was first launched in 1960 by Seiko, which sought to compete with luxurious Swiss brands. Today, the company is revered more than ever, boasting some of the finest movements in the world and a unique design language that includes the famous Zaratsu case finishing technique and dials inspired by various elements of Japanese heritage and nature.
Grand Seiko 44GS Heritage Collection
The 44GS model is an example of Grand Seiko's design ethos, combining Japanese heritage and cultural elegance.
Editor's Choice: Grand Seiko's signature feature is unique, meticulously crafted dials, like those found in the Heritage collection. The 44GS dress with the Spring Drive caliber, as shown above, inspired by the steel of a Japanese katana sword, combines the mechanics of an automatic movement with enhanced accuracy. The mechanism is housed in a 40mm stainless steel case with the brand's signature Zaratsu finish, which seamlessly blends flat and mirror-polished surfaces. If your budget is a bit higher and you're looking for the perfect dress watch, look no further than Grand Seiko.
- Case Size: 40 mm
- Movement: Spring Drive 9R
- Type: Dress