In the world of wristwatches, there are two main styles that divide this category into two parts.
They are separated by the type of movement - the mechanism by which these watches tell time. The first and most popular is quartz, which operates by sending an electric current through a quartz crystal using a watch battery and uses the oscillations of that crystal to keep time.
The second, which we are discussing today, is mechanical. Mechanical watches are considered superior between the two for their craftsmanship and independence from battery power. They use a mainspring-driven movement to keep time - most often either manual or automatic winding. While quartz watches are relatively inexpensive and easily accessible, any watch collector or enthusiast worth their salt should own at least one mechanical watch. Fortunately for you, we have assembled a collection of the best currently available.
Manual vs. Automatic Watches
As mentioned, the large category of mechanical watches can be divided into two parts: manual and automatic winding. Manual winding watches, as the name suggests, require periodic winding by hand - usually meaning the crown must be turned to wind the internal springs and keep the watch ticking. In automatic watches, this step is entirely absent, with kinetic energy generated by the wearer most often used to wind the internal springs. This means that if the user wears the watch regularly or uses a kinetic winder (a device for winding watches), such a watch will tick forever. Automatic mechanical watches are more accessible and often preferred for their convenience. Nonetheless, manual watches feature a high level of craftsmanship and historical significance, appealing to many watch enthusiasts.
What to Look for in Mechanical Watches
- Price: We don't know your bank balance or budget, so we offer you watches across all price ranges.
- Size: The size of the watch depends on your personal preferences. If you have a small wrist, choose watches no larger than 40 mm. However, certain types of watches also determine their size. For example, dive watches tend to be much larger.
- Case: Stainless steel is the most common option due to its durability and availability, but mechanical watches can be made from titanium, which is lighter in weight, or ceramic, which is more scratch-resistant.
- Movement: Since all these watches are mechanical, they can be either automatic or manual winding, but generally, it is the former. Therefore, pay attention to parameters such as accuracy (daily time deviation) and power reserve, i.e., how long the watch will run when fully wound.
Are Mechanical Watches More Accurate?
When it comes to watch accuracy, even the most expensive options won't be as precise as cheap quartz watches. Most serious watch collectors don't wear the same watch every day and expect to wind or set each watch before heading out. Simply put, mechanical watches are more about the ingenuity of the small mechanisms hidden inside than accuracy. If this concerns you, just buy a smartwatch.
Hamilton Khaki Field Watch
The ultra-durable Hamilton field watches are popular for their approachable size, 24-hour dial, and retro aesthetic.
Debuting in 2017, the Hamilton Khaki Field Watch became a way for the Pennsylvania watch company to bring its iconic World War II history and 1970s GG-W-113 field watches to the masses. Legendary in this category for their robustness, tactical mentality, and fair price, the 38mm automatic watch features a matte steel case, comfortable NATO strap, triangular indices, and a 24-hour military dial. With its approachable size, this watch sits perfectly on the wrist and doesn't interfere during outdoor activities.
- Size: 38 mm
- Case: Stainless steel
- Movement: Automatic
Tissot PRX Powermatic 80
The super-stylish PRX model from Tissot harkens back to 1970s dress watches, at a very reasonable price.
Tissot has a long history of making watches that span the entire spectrum. But some of their best are these dressy PRX Powermatic 80. The 40mm watch, equipped with the eponymous automatic movement with an 80-hour power reserve visible through the case back, closely resembles the Royal Oak from Audemars Piguet (featured later in this list) with its low profile, tapisserie dial pattern, and integrated bracelet. The case is made from 316L stainless steel, and its shape is inspired by Tissot's 1970s watches.
- Size: 40 mm
- Case: 316L Stainless steel
- Movement: Automatic
Junghans Max Bill Automatic Watch
The Max Bill watch by Junghans is one of the paradigms of the minimalist watch world, created in the Bauhaus style.
The Max Bill series by Junghans is among the most famous in the world of minimalist watches inspired by Bauhaus. And this version, mechanical with automatic winding, is one of the best in it. Interestingly, despite the abundance of markings on the dial - including 12-hour and 60-minute indices - it still manages to maintain a clean and uncluttered design. The watch is equipped with a 38-hour automatic movement, a stainless steel case, and a beautiful and simple leather strap.
- Size: 38 mm
- Case: Stainless steel
- Movement: Automatic
Seiko Prospex 1968 Diver’s GMT
Seiko has added a GMT function to one of its best diver models, inspired by its 1968 watch.
Although technically not a Seiko “Sumo”, the Prospex 1968 Diver’s Modern Reinterpretation GMT shares much in common with its highly sought-after counterparts, including a turtle-shaped stainless steel case and an offset crown (refined by a large bezel). Moreover, the watch is equipped with a reliable automatic movement, a steel bracelet, built-in magnetic resistance, and 200m water resistance. And, of course, the GMT function with a fourth hand for tracking the time in a second time zone. Unlike the version without the GMT function, this model is a bit bulkier and has a more sporty look.
- Size: 42 mm
- Case: Stainless steel
- Movement: Automatic
Longines Spirit Zulu Time
Longines remains true to its aviation history by creating these stylish pilot watches with a GMT function.
In 1908, Longines released a pocket watch that could display time in two time zones. Since then, the Swiss brand has been popular with pilots and aviators. Last year, the watch company paid homage to its history, especially during the mid-century golden age of aviation, by releasing the Spirit Zulu Time GMT watches. A dressier option with beautiful design and color schemes, the watches are a “true” GMT, meaning you can adjust the GMT hand without disrupting the time. If history and beauty are your preferences, don't stop there.
- Size: 42 mm
- Case: Stainless steel
- Movement: Automatic
Tudor Black Bay Dive Watch
The iconic Black Bay model from Tudor combines form and function perfectly with 200-meter water resistance and unique color schemes.
One of the most iconic diving watches, the Tudor Black Bay has encapsulated sixty years of diving experience into one stunning timepiece. This particular specimen boasts a 41mm stainless steel case with a red dive timer bezel, a black dial with luminous markers, a steel bracelet, a domed sapphire crystal, and much more. The watch features 200m water resistance and a screw-down crown, ensuring its safety during both everyday use and dives. Of course, if you're just seeking a beautiful chronometer to add to your wardrobe, these watches will suit you perfectly.
- Size: 41 mm
- Case: Stainless steel
- Movement: Automatic
Oris Divers Sixty-Five Chronograph Watch
The Oris chronodiver pays tribute to its first diver from 1965 with a stylish case design and contrasting dial.
The very first Oris dive watch came out in 1965. And the aptly named Divers Sixty-Five Chronograph combines over fifty years of oceanic diving watch experience into one magnificent and reliable watch that will look superb on any wrist and enhance any collection. These mechanical watches have a stainless steel case, with a bronze bezel rim for stylish contrast. In addition, the watch has an automatic movement, sapphire crystal, and Swiss-made automatic movement.
- Size: 43 mm
- Case: Stainless steel
- Movement: Automatic
Grand Seiko Spring Drive SBGA467 Watch
GS showcases its mastery in crafting elegant watches with this Spring Drive model featuring a signature movement and high-contrast dial.
The Grand Seiko Spring Drive SBGA467 watch is perhaps the last word in elegance when it comes to Japanese watchmaking. Its case is made from stainless steel, the watch is equipped with a simple and easy-to-read power indicator, has a restrained, high-contrast dial design, and its size is 40 mm, so its beauty won't get lost on your wrist. Additionally, the watch is equipped with the brand's signature Spring Drive movement, which runs solely on the main spring and allows the second hand to glide smoothly. For those who appreciate Japanese precision, these are some of the most exceptional watches available today - mechanical or otherwise.
- Size: 40 mm
- Case: Stainless steel
- Movement: Spring Drive
Bell & Ross BR-05 Watch
The BR-05 model by Bell & Ross features the signature square case with some dressy touches that add versatility to the watch.
Unforgettable for anyone who has seen it, the Bell & Ross BR-05 uses the iconic square case shape but transforms it into much more restrained, dressy, and elegant watches. Apart from bold dial markers, the watch has a date window, luminous indices, a 40mm stainless steel case with a strap, anti-reflective sapphire crystal, and, importantly, an automatic movement that powers it all. If this is a sign of things to come from Bell & Ross, we can't wait to see more.
- Size: 40 mm
- Case: Stainless steel
- Movement: Automatic
IWC Pilot’s Watch Mark XX
Visibility is enhanced with glass protected against air pressure drops.
IWC is one of the five original Flieger watch manufacturers from World War II, and today it still produces some of the most stunning pilot watches. But in Mark XX of its famous Pilot’s Watch, the luxury brand from Schaffhausen creates a tool that goes beyond aesthetics. The watch features a 40mm stainless steel case, a dial with prominently visible hands and markers, sapphire crystal to protect against displacement in the event of air pressure drops mid-flight, and an internal soft iron case that protects the automatic caliber from magnetic forces.
- Size: 40 mm
- Case: Stainless steel
- Movement: Automatic
Panerai Luminor Logo
The Luminor Logo diver from Panerai has a large 44mm case and a design that blends vintage with modernity.
If big and bold watches are your thing, then the Panerai Luminor Logo might pique your interest. And if your interests are tied to watch traditions – doubly so, as these impressive wristwatches come equipped with their own mechanical manual-wind movement. But don't worry - you won't need to wind these watches constantly, as they feature a 3-day power reserve, significantly simplifying the task. The watches also have a shock-resistant case, a protected crown, a robust stainless steel case, and a beautiful vintage-style leather strap with beige stitching.
- Size: 44 mm
- Case: Stainless steel
- Movement: Manual
Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional
The Speedmaster Moonwatch by Omega is perhaps the most famous watch in the world, presented here in a classic three-compax chronograph configuration.
As a favorite brand of James Bond and NASA, Omega has quite a few mechanical watches worth their weight in gold. But we have a soft spot for one of their most iconic models (and one of the most iconic in watchmaking overall) - the Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional. These watches accompanied manned flights to the Moon and continue to capture the imagination, all for a price of only $6,600. This model, dressed in black, is part of the flagship line's 2021 update, now equipped with the METAS-certified Co-Axial Master Chronometer chronograph and some stylistic updates. You can't go wrong with Omega, but this mechanical model is all the more special.
- Size: 42 mm
- Case: Stainless steel
- Movement: Automatic
TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph Watch
No racing watch is as revered as the Monaco from TAG Heuer. Its unforgettable vintage aesthetic recalls the heyday of motor racing.
You may recognize the TAG Heuer Monaco watch favored by the “King of Cool” Steve McQueen, or at least recognize the watch he wore in the film “Le Mans.” Coupled with its rich racing history, this watch has become a favorite in the automotive world among both the young and old. And thanks to the recent release of several special series, it's never been easier to acquire a Monaco that suits your style. Of course, we are fond of this model with its automatic movement, legendary square case, blue dial, white and red markers, and contrasting sub-dials. For car enthusiasts, perhaps there are no better historically significant watches.
- Size: 39 mm
- Case: Stainless steel
- Movement: Automatic
Rolex GMT-Master II Watch
Rolex is the most revered luxury watchmaker, and these GMT-Master II are classics.
As with most “Best Watches” lists, this one wouldn't be complete without the presence of a Rolex. And when it comes to mechanical watches, their automatic GMT-Master II can safely be called legendary. This particular edition was released a few years back and includes a construction of Oystersteel - both the case and bracelet - an entirely new 3285 in-house caliber (with a 70-hour power reserve), the ability to tell time in two time zones at once, a signature bi-color rotating bezel, and a trademark magnified date window at the 3 o'clock position. If you're going to get a Rolex watch (and you should), you absolutely can't go wrong with this choice.
- Size: 40 mm
- Case: Oystersteel
- Movement: Automatic
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Watch
The Royal Oak by AP is the epitome of watchmaking grails, with its legendary octagonal case, tapisserie dial, and integrated bracelet.
Despite being an extremely luxurious item only available to those with a substantial surplus of funds, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak is worth its seemingly exorbitant price for its overall build quality and craftsmanship, as well as its iconic character and precise timekeeping. These angular stainless steel automatic watches feature a unique integrated bracelet, crystal-clear sapphire crystal, and - if the basic version doesn't quite meet your needs - they have a full roster of siblings to choose from: complex chronographs, moon phase watches, skeletonized dials, and much more.
- Size: 41 mm
- Case: Stainless steel
- Movement: Automatic