At the Watches & Wonders Geneva 2024 exhibition, something curious happened: I was drawn to several watches which were probably originally intended for women.
There's certainly nothing wrong with that, but it's not the usual feeling I have after such a luxury watch exhibition. Typically, it's the other way around - women are eager to wear men's watches.
I suppose it was only a matter of time before the pendulum swung the other way. All that's left is to find the courage to allow oneself such watches. A great example is the limited edition of only 12 pieces of the Chanel J12 White Star Couture, a watch so captivating that it made our list of the top 10 watches from Watches & Wonders Geneva 2024. Initially intended for women? Perhaps? Cool on a guy? At least, I think so…
The original Chanel J12 watches are among my favorite modern watches, and legend has it they were first designed by a man to be the perfect men's watch about 25 years ago.
Over the years, Chanel has released both men's and women's versions of the Chanel J12, popularizing the collection through the use of predominantly white or black ceramics to create a multitude of styles and sizes. In the last decade, Chanel has significantly reduced the production of men's watches.
Currently, there are no specific "men's" J12 watches, and the men's watches that Chanel does produce are much higher-end and limited in production. For the most part, the watch side of the Parisian house is focused on women's wrists, as well as the amazing spectacles the brand releases each year. In 2024, the main theme of Chanel watches was the connection to Chanel's heritage in clothing, including watches that play on the concept of Coco Chanel, the seamstress. This includes everything from J12 watches with scissor hands to automatic J12 watches.
Although the name of these Chanel 2024 watches includes the word "Couture", they are one of Chanel's new stunning models that are not so specific in their theme, but simply focused on luxury and some black-and-white color codes that helped define the J12 collection.
It is a very experimental design, which is why it is so limited and so expensive. Moreover, these are possibly the first J12 watches in a steel case that I am aware of.
The Chanel J12 White Star Couture watch (reference H9862) features a 38mm steel case with a black coating, white ceramic inserts, and diamonds.
Steel is used primarily because ceramic is too hard to serve as a setting for stones or inlays. The dial, bezel, lugs, and bracelet surface of the J12 White Star Couture are adorned with ribbed pieces of white ceramic - and it looks beautiful when the pieces sparkle in the light.
However, the truly sparkling part is the sides of the case and bracelet, adorned with 11.51 carats of baguette-cut diamonds. Another diamond embellishes the cabochon-style crown. The case is water-resistant up to 50 meters, and both the dial and case back are covered with sapphire crystal.
The diamonds adorning the sides of the watch are interesting because they are both luxurious and subtly displayed.
The placement of the diamonds is playful and not as overtly showy as, say, watches with the same number of diamonds on more prominent surfaces. When looking at the J12 White Star Couture from top to bottom, it creates a very interesting black-and-white checkerboard effect, and when turned to the side, they acquire a more luxurious and coquettish look.
On the wrist, they don't look like men's watches, but rather like something beautiful that you want to admire, and they are not too small for many men's wrists. It should be remembered that the cost of these watches is nearly half a million dollars, and only 12 pieces will be produced. Therefore, the decision on whether you would wear such a watch (as a man) is hypothetical for most of us.
Inside the J12 White Star Couture is an automatic Chanel movement with caliber 12.1, produced by Kennissi (meaning Tudor).
The automatic movement operates at a frequency of 4 Hz with a 70-hour power reserve and displays only the time on the dial. Note the additional ring of diamonds inserted into the rotor of the self-winding mechanism - this is another way to give the watch a sense of luxury and high class (a successful one, I must say).
These charming two-tone diamond watches, mostly white in front and black in back, are simply mesmerizing in their appeal. I've fallen under their spell, as I have many times with Chanel items (mostly from afar).
I recommend Chanel fans to check out the 2024 Couture capsule watch collection, as it features many interesting pieces, not just wristwatches (there is at least one clock and several pendants). I don't quite understand how the J12 White Star fits into the overall Couture clothing style, but I honestly don't care, given how cool these watches are.
The price for the Chanel J12 White Star Couture H9862 watch is about 470,000 USD. More details on the Chanel website.