You have surely seen all the review articles on “Watches and Wonders 2024” and read that this year’s releases were not the most exciting.
However, as I mentioned in my article on “favorites,” this does not mean there were no releases worth mentioning.
Today, I would like to talk about two watches that we have not yet covered on the WatchTested website. Both feature black dials with the always intriguing “jumping hour” complication. Additionally, both are new versions of previously released models. However, this does not make them any less interesting. Let’s take a look at the Monsieur de Chanel Superleggera Intense Black and the L.U. Chopard Quattro Spirit 25, both in black.
Watches with a jumping hour complication always intrigue me. The absence of an hour hand allows designers to create entirely different dial configurations, which I find simply fascinating.
In some cases, like with the Quattro Spirit 25, this results in a clean, elegant appearance. In others, such as this version of the Superleggera, it gives the watch a more industrial look. Whatever your preference, these watches are worth a look and make for great conversation starters.
Monsieur de Chanel Superleggera Intense Black
The Monsieur collection from Chanel debuted in 2016. At that time, the watches were only available in a 40mm case made of white or yellow gold. With silver-beige dials and black crocodile straps, they resembled dress watches. Then, in 2017, Chanel introduced a limited edition with a black enamel dial.
The dial layout remained the same, but this model had a platinum case. It seems that the black dial version served as the inspiration for the following watches because in 2021, Chanel released the almost entirely blacked-out Monsieur - Monsieur Superleggera Edition.
These watches have much in common with the Intense Black we are reviewing today. Both models feature a 42mm case with a ceramic middle and steel bezels around the sapphire crystals on the front and back.
There is also a black ceramic bezel insert, so the steel edges are only visible on the bezel and the side of the case. As you might have guessed, the new Superleggera Intense Black model is even blacker than the previous one. This is mainly noticeable on the dial. Additionally, the red accents of the previous version are gone, with only the name Superleggera and the triangle at the bottom of the dial remaining in gold.
Caliber 1
The dial design is clearly inspired by the instrument panels of Superleggera sports cars of the past. The minute dial with a 240° retrograde angle looks almost exactly like a speedometer, and the huge jumping hour window can be mistaken for the selected gear.
The sub-second register right in the middle is the only element that might belong to a regular three-hand watch. The Superleggera Edition dial is largely a result of the Caliber 1 inside.
This movement was developed in close collaboration with Romain Gauthier, known for creating attractive designs. The hand-wound Caliber 1 from Chanel is no exception. From the back, the movement looks so simple yet visually pleasing. It also received an amorphous diamond-like carbon (ADLC) coating to match the rest of the Monsieur design.
The twin-barrel movement provides a 72-hour power reserve, operates at a frequency of 28,800 per hour, and features 30 jewels. The Chanel Monsieur Superleggera Intense Black watches are limited to 100 pieces and are priced at 44,650 Swiss francs. At the time of publication, it is not yet available on Chanel’s website, but you can view previous versions.
L.U. Chopard Quattro Spirit 25
As I mentioned, the L.U. Chopard Quattro Spirit 25 is also not an entirely new watch. The previous version was introduced in 2021 for the 25th anniversary of the Chopard manufacture. It had a 40mm rose gold case and a very clean white enamel dial. The new version has the same case shape, but this time it is made of white gold and paired with a black enamel dial.
I love how simply and cleanly the designers crafted the Quattro Spirit 25 dial. Large numerals are placed around the edge, followed by a classic railroad minute track, and inside it is the jumping hour window and the L.U. Chopard name. Finally, the lone minute hand moves so close to the dial, it’s mesmerizing.
The name Quattro Spirit 25 is based on the technology used in the manually wound L.U.C. 98.06-L movement. It houses no fewer than four barrels, providing a total power reserve of eight days (or just over 190 hours). You can check the power reserve on the beautifully hand-finished caseback of the movement. It looks much less modern than the Caliber 1 of the Monsieur, but in my opinion, the Côtes de Genève decoration, polished bevels, and gilded engraving make up for it splendidly.
As you can notice, the movement also bears the Geneva Seal. The caliber with 42 jewels also operates at a frequency of 28,800 per hour. Like the Superleggera Intense Black, the L.U. Chopard Quattro Spirit 25 in black is limited to 100 pieces. To make it yours, you will need to pay 47,000 Swiss francs. More detailed information can be found on Chopard's official website.
Which Would You Choose?
Here they are - two (not quite) new watches with a jumping hour mechanism. The watches from Chanel look sportier and more modern than the Chopard ones. And yes, these watches are very expensive. But for some reason, I can justify these prices since both models offer something incredibly special in their appearance and mechanisms.
Since I prefer smaller, more classic watches, I think I would choose the Quattro Spirit 25. But the Superleggera Intense Black Edition also looks appealing thanks to its dashboard-like design.
What would you choose from these two models, and what do you think about watches with a jumping hour mechanism in general? Share your thoughts in our Telegram channel.