Here at WatchTested, we see hundreds of watches a year, and I'm no exception to the rule. Naturally, each of us has our preferences for what we consider special watches. Today, I eagerly awaited the chance to get my hands on the new L.U.C watches since their announcement at the Watches & Wonders exhibition in 2021. The Chopard L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25 was worth the wait. Standing out with clear graphics and elegant minimalism, the first jumping hour watch in the Chopard collection displays the time in digital format through an aperture on a pristine white Grand Feu enamel dial. Let's take a closer look at them.
Alongside impeccable watchmaking, the uniqueness of the L.U.C collection lies in its distinct sense of elegance. Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, co-president of Chopard, has always imbued the watches of this collection with a subtle, elegant flair. The L.U.C Jumping Hour watch, released to celebrate the 25th anniversary of the Chopard manufacture, perfectly embodies the spirit of the collection.
The Chopard L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25 comes in a classic round case made from ethically sourced 18-carat rose gold - a new standard for Chopard. With classic lines and rounded edges reminiscent of pocket watches of the past, it measures 40 mm in diameter and 10.3 mm in height - a universally modern size that suits most wrists. The lugs are angled to ensure a comfortable fit. The large knurled crown is easy to operate. The bezel is polished, while the case flanks are vertically satin-finished - a signature feature of most L.U.C watches.
Reminiscent of watches from a bygone era, the Grand Feu enamel dial stands out with clean, simple graphics. It is crafted in-house. The enamel is applied to an ethical 18-carat rose gold base, fired multiple times at high temperatures, and delicately polished by hand. The black enamel minute hand and numerals provide clear contrast. The minute hand is executed in the characteristic dauphine-fusée style of the L.U.C collection. The hour window, framed in gold, is a bit deep, but enamel dials require a certain thickness - and, in my opinion, it suits the watch perfectly.
At the heart of the Chopard L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25 beats the manually wound L.U.C 98.06-L caliber. The jumping hour mechanism is complex and demanding, requiring energy to be stored before releasing it all at once in a quick motion. But it's not just about technical issues. Turning the watch over, you can freely examine the mechanism and its exquisite finish through the case back. The bridges are adorned with Geneva stripes, and the plate features circular graining.
The balance wheel operates at a frequency of 4 Hz. Its hairspring has a Phillips curve. The swan-neck regulator is characteristic of L.U.C models with the Geneva hallmark. Thanks to Chopard's patented Quattro technology (with four stacked barrels), it can store an impressive power reserve of 192 hours/8 days. The remaining power reserve can be checked at any time on the movement via a smart, discreet power reserve indicator.
The Chopard L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25 is worn on a matte brown alligator leather strap with hand stitching and a cognac-colored alligator leather lining. The buckle is made of ethical 18-carat rose gold.
The Chopard L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25 is released in a limited series of 100 pieces. The price is set at 44,500 euros or 44,700 Swiss francs. For more information and online ordering, visit www.chopard.com.
SPECIFICATIONS – CHOPARD L.U.C QUATTRO SPIRIT 25 JUMPING HOUR
Case: diameter 40 mm x height 10.3 mm – ethical 18-carat rose gold, satin-finished and polished – sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating – front and back covers – water resistance 30 m.
Dial: ethical 18-carat rose gold base – in-house white Grand Feu enamel – minutes and Arabic numerals with black Grand Feu transfer enamel – dauphine-style minute hand and baton-style power reserve indicator hand – jumping hours in a rose gold-framed aperture at 6 o'clock – central minute indication
Movement: Chopard L.U.C 98.06-L caliber – in-house – Geneva quality hallmark – manual winding – 240 components – 31.8 mm x 4.85 mm – 28,000 vibrations/hour – equipped with patented Chopard Quattro technology (four-barrel), providing a 192-hour or 8-day power reserve
Strap: matte brown alligator leather with hand stitching and cognac-colored alligator leather lining – ethical 18-carat rose gold buckle
Reference: 161977-5001
Availability: limited and numbered series of 100 pieces, already on sale
Price: 44,500 EUR
CHF 44,700
USD 44,700
GBP 39,000