A detailed review of the L.U.C collection that Chopard presented at Watches and Wonders 2026.
The article examines key models, including the L.U.C 1860 with a blue Areuse dial in a Lucent Steel case, L.U.C XPS Prussian Blue, L.U.C Strike One Titanium, two versions of L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25 - Straw Marquetry Edition, as well as the travel-friendly L.U.C Time Traveler One. Additionally, attention is given to the Alpine Eagle 41 XPS "Mountain Glow" - a thin sports model with the unique L.U.C 96.40-L caliber.
Alpine Eagle 41 XPS "Mountain Glow": Thin Sports Chronograph with L.U.C Caliber
Let's begin with the Alpine Eagle 41 XPS "Mountain Glow" (ref. 298623-3003 / €29,500) - a model featuring a new textured champagne-colored dial and a case thickness of just 8 mm. The case is made from the proprietary Lucent Steel alloy, providing strength and shine. Inside is the ultra-thin L.U.C 96.40-L caliber, consisting of 176 components. The movement, measuring 27.4 × 3.3 mm, is equipped with a 22-carat gold micro-rotor that winds two sequential barrels, providing a 65-hour power reserve.
The watch is certified to the Poinçon de Genève and COSC standards as a chronometer, features a stop-seconds function, and a "swan-neck" regulator for precise timekeeping. The model comes with an updated bracelet, which has a more pronounced tapering profile towards the clasp and a micro-adjustment system allowing for an extension of up to 5 mm.
All L.U.C Models Presented at Watches and Wonders 2026
Chopard showcased a wide range of L.U.C watches at Watches and Wonders 2026. Among them, the L.U.C 1860 with an "Areuse blue" dial in a Lucent Steel case (ref. 168860-3005 / €28,200) stands out. This shade is inspired by the Swiss river Areuse, flowing in the Saint-Sulpice region, Val-de-Travers canton. The model is dedicated to the 30th anniversary of the Fleurier manufacture and repeats the proportions of the original version: case diameter of 36.5 mm, thickness of 8.2 mm, water resistance up to 30 m.
The dial is made of 18-carat white gold with several hand-guilloché patterns applied on traditional equipment. A satin-finished chapter ring with indices, applied hour markers in white gold, and dauphine hands create a classic and balanced design. The absence of a date preserves the symmetry and purity of the layout.
Inside operates the automatic L.U.C 96.40-L caliber, the same as in the Alpine Eagle 41 XPS "Mountain Glow." The watch is paired with a grey calfskin strap with a steel pin buckle.
L.U.C XPS Prussian Blue: Entry into the World of L.U.C with a Historic Hue
The L.U.C XPS Prussian Blue (40 × 7.2 mm, ref. 168629-3002 / €12,900) is an excellent introduction to the L.U.C collection. Despite the 40 mm diameter, the case proportions are balanced, and the large dial is done in the historic "Prussian blue" shade.
This color was discovered accidentally in the 17th century by a Berlin paint merchant and is connected to the Neuchâtel canton, where the Fleurier manufacture is located. From 1707 to 1857, this territory was under the rule of the Prussian kingdom, and from 1815, it became a Swiss canton. The dial is executed in a sector style, combining the clarity of art deco and the simplicity of Bauhaus.
Inside is the ultra-thin automatic caliber 96.12-L, 3.3 mm thick with a 22K gold micro-rotor. The movement features Twin technology - two sequential barrels providing a 65-hour power reserve. The mechanism is COSC certified and has a stop-seconds function.
L.U.C Strike One Titanium: Acoustics and Modern Design
At the other end of the price spectrum is the L.U.C Strike One Titanium (40 × 9.86 mm, ref. 168627-3003 / €63,300). This model combines complex sound functionality with a minimalist modern design. The Grade 5 titanium case is made from a solid block, with a vertically satin-finished surface and contrasting polished elements on the bezel and caseback. The control button is integrated into the crown for a minimalist look.
Inside, the L.U.C 96.32-L caliber is COSC and Poinçon de Genève certified. The mechanism features a 22K gold micro-rotor, two sequential barrels with a 65-hour power reserve, a "swan-neck" regulator, and Côtes de Genève finishing. A unique feature is the "strike one" function, where a single clear chime sounds every time the minute hand passes the 60-minute mark. A patented monobloc sapphire gong system is used to create a pure sound, which is unusual for titanium, traditionally not known for acoustics.
The dial is made of 18K ethical gold with a hand-guilloché honeycomb pattern - a symbol of the bee, representing Chopard's craftsmanship. A warm salmon hue adds coziness. At 12 o'clock, there's an indicator for the chime signal activity (white - on, ruthenium - off), and between 12 and 1 o'clock, there's a window showing the hammer's operation. The anthracite alligator leather strap harmonizes with the titanium hue.
L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25 - Straw Marquetry Editions: The Art of Straw and Bee Symbolism
The L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25 - Straw Marquetry Editions are presented in two versions: yellow gold with a golden dial (ref. 161977-0003 / €76,800) and rose gold with a blue dial (ref. 161977-5011 / €76,800). Both are made of ethical gold and are limited to only eight pieces each.
The dials are crafted using straw marquetry technique over a complex geometric pattern that simulates the structure of honeycombs and pays homage to the bee - a symbol of diligence and harmony. The straw is carefully selected rye grown in France. Each stalk is manually split with a fingernail and carefully assembled into a pattern.
The watch features a jumping hour function at 6 o'clock and a central minute hand in the dauphine-fusée shape. Inside the 40 mm case operates the L.U.C 98.06-L caliber with Quattro technology - four sequentially connected barrels providing an impressive 192-hour power reserve.
The case design is inspired by pocket watches historically produced by Louis-Ulysse Chopard, with a characteristic rounded shape and modern features. Through the transparent caseback, one can see the movement architecture and its finishing, as well as the Poinçon de Genève mark.
L.U.C Time Traveler One: Watches for Travelers with a Ceramicized Titanium Case
The new L.U.C Time Traveler One (ref. 168574-3013 / €19,300) is made from ceramicized titanium and limited to 250 pieces. The watch is designed for frequent travelers and allows simultaneous tracking of time in 24 cities around the world.
The 42 mm case has a matte finish, reminiscent of PVD-coated steel but more resistant to scratches and wear thanks to the ceramic surface structure with a hardness of about 1000 Vickers, achieved through electro-plasma oxidation.
The khaki-colored dial with beige accents and vertical satin finishing is complemented by a yellow lacquered seconds hand with a luminescent coating for good readability. The watch comes with a khaki rubber strap with a black lining and a ceramicized titanium buckle engraved with L.U.C.
Control is via two crowns: at 4 o'clock for setting the city ring, and at 2 o'clock for setting local time. The automatic L.U.C 01.05-L caliber with a 60-hour power reserve is COSC-certified. Through the transparent caseback, neatly finished bridges with Côtes de Genève decoration are visible.
Conclusion
The L.U.C collection presented by Chopard at Watches and Wonders 2026 showcases a wide range of possibilities - from elegant classic models to complex technical solutions and artistic craftsmanship. Each model is distinguished by high precision, the use of innovative materials, and attention to detail.
The choice of L.U.C watches depends on preferences: elegance, innovation, or complex functions - in any case, it is a paragon of Swiss watchmaking mastery.
