These watches made me lose my magnifying glass at the Watches and Wonders exhibition this year.
They also made me lose my mind. After the product presentation at the Chronoswiss booth at the latest Watches and Wonders, I was so impressed with the watch that I left my magnifying glass on the table and hurried to my next meeting. Losing a magnifying glass at a watch salon is inconvenient, but not catastrophic, as there are plenty of tools in such an environment. Nevertheless, the fact that I lost an important tool because I was enchanted by the Chronoswiss Delphis Art Deco deserves attention. I also wanted to see the watch again, so I requested it for a detailed review. I was about to spend more time with the watch that made me lose my magnifying glass and see if the same feelings would occur.
Third Encounter with Chronoswiss Delphis Art Deco: Why They Impress
The first time I saw the Chronoswiss Delphis Art Deco (CH-1423TM.1-GRGO) in a press release, I was impressed. The second time I saw them in person, I was captivated. And the third time? Yes, they impressed me once again. As a fan of Chronoswiss and a happy owner of the large glowing Timemaster, I was impressed once more. Let me explain why.
Features and Design of Chronoswiss Delphis Art Deco
The Chronoswiss Delphis Art Deco is one of the brand's most recognizable modern models, equipped with a jumping hour, a retrograde minute hand, and a seconds counter. These watches combine details that hark back to the times when the brand was led by its founder, Gerd-Rüdiger Lang. A large onion-shaped crown and ribbed bezel at the front, as well as a ribbed ring on the case back, are historical design elements. The use of various decorative techniques, such as guilloché, reflects the influence of the Swiss Ebstein family, who acquired Chronoswiss in 2012.
Currently, Oliver Ebstein holds the position of CEO. Under his leadership, the brand began to develop exclusive movements and add modern, sometimes bright and expressive style to the original designs. Modern Chronoswiss models stand out with their use of color, texture, and depth, blending contemporary trends with traditional craftsmanship.
Laser Engraving and Hand Guilloché: A Blend of Tradition and Innovation
The function of the jumping hour combined with the retrograde minute hand and seconds counter dominates the dial design, yet remains flexible in decorative execution. Chronoswiss, with the Delphis Art Deco model, has proven that subtlety and elegance can be achieved. The dial design is inspired by the Art Deco style of the 1920s, reflecting the architectural elegance of the era through soft colors and smooth lines.
The main surface, nickel-plated and laser-engraved, has an exquisite three-dimensional texture that plays with light and shadow. Gray tones and a gold-plated minute scale create metallic elegance, which is a nod to traditional Art Deco design, as is the restrained use of color.
Two stylized bridges cross the dial, dividing it into two domed, grainy gray sections. The domed dial creates a subtle play of light, giving the entire composition depth. The most striking element of the watch is the seconds counter with hand guilloché, covered with blue lacquer and framed with gold. The color of the counter harmonizes with the large and small minute and second hands, made of aluminum with blue PVD coating in the "Viking" shape. Many details are executed discreetly and subtly, ensuring high readability of the dial. The 42mm case provides enough space for the large jumping hour window and convenient placement of the minute and second scales.
Neo-Deco - A Modern Interpretation of Art Deco
To say that the new titanium Delphis is an Art Deco 2.0 watch might be incorrect. The modern evolution of Art Deco is often referred to as Modern Maximalism, but Neo-Deco and Luxe Modernism are also used. I prefer the term "Neo-Deco" - it sounds better and retains a connection to the classic style. Neo-Deco retains the main features of Art Deco - luxurious elegance, expressive geometric shapes, and rich metallic finishes, reimagining them for the 21st century. This is achieved through the integration of modern technologies and refined contemporary design.
Titanium is the technological factor in these watches, and the modern design is the laser-engraved surface of the gray dial. The water resistance of the case at 100 meters is also modern.
The combination of a decorative dial with a traditional case is not new. However, choosing titanium as a case material is quite unusual and original. The matte Grade 5 titanium case consists of 17 parts and unites the past and present. The case size of 42 × 49 × 14.4 mm fits perfectly on my wrist. I'm used to the 44mm Timemaster and feel comfortable with a case that's only slightly smaller. The watches are too large to be called classic dress watches, but they are perfect for a "dress to impress" look. The Delphis Art Deco encourages you to ditch old jeans and a gray sweater in favor of a stylish shirt, trousers, and perhaps loafers.
Final Impressions of Chronoswiss Delphis Art Deco
The beauty of the front of the watch continues on the back. The Delphis is equipped with the proprietary C.6004 caliber - an automatic movement with a frequency of 4 Hz and a power reserve of 55 hours, developed in collaboration with La Joux-Perret. The movement's diameter is 33 mm, which fits perfectly into the case, and the gray color matches the overall design concept. The sapphire crystal case back showcases exquisite finishing and a rotor inspired by the bridges on the dial. The movement is a pleasure to look at, but it is responsible for the invisible functions - instant hour switching and retrograde minute hand movement.
I confess, when the watch wasn't on my wrist, I often played with the crown to watch the digital hour change in an instant, and the minute hand move retrograde across the scale and return back. It's a real spectacle.
The third encounter with the Delphis Art Deco was truly successful. I was sad to part with them. These watches are a bright and original expression of modern watchmaking art inspired by traditions. Chronoswiss has managed to create subtle, technically interesting, and original watches that are sure to spark admiration.
The cost of the Neo-Deco Chronoswiss Delphis Art Deco is €15,900 / US$17,500 / £15,300 / CHF 14,500. Share your opinion: has Chronoswiss created a true Neo-Deco masterpiece? I look forward to your comments.
Technical Specifications of Chronoswiss Delphis Art Deco
| Parameter | Value |
|---|---|
| Reference | CH-1423TM.1-GRGO |
| Dial | Three-dimensional construction, nickel-plated and laser-engraved base, digital hour, hand-guilloché seconds counter with blue lacquer and gold frame, gold-plated minute scale, satin and blue PVD "Viking" aluminum hands |
| Case Material | Grade 5 titanium, 17 parts, matte finish, engraved and polished bezel with ribbed decorative ring |
| Case Dimensions | 42 mm (diameter) × 49 mm (length) × 14.4 mm (thickness) |
| Glass | Sapphire with anti-reflective coating |
| Case Back | Grade 5 titanium and sapphire glass with anti-reflective coating, screw-down |
| Movement | Chronoswiss C.6004: automatic with manual winding, 28,800 vph (4 Hz), power reserve 55 hours, 37 jewels, Glucydur balance with three spokes, Nivarox 1 balance spring |
| Water Resistance | 10 atm (100 meters) |
| Strap | Black nubuck with titanium folding clasp |
| Functions | Time (jumping hours, retrograde minutes, small seconds) |
| Price | €15,900 / US$17,500 / £15,300 / CHF 14,500 |
| Features | Limited edition - 150 pieces |