Girard-Perregaux Laureato FIFTY Steel Review

Last October, Girard-Perregaux celebrated the 50th anniversary of the Laureato model by introducing a limited edition called FIFTY.

The anniversary model received several significant updates and enhancements - a new 39mm case that is thinner than its predecessors, a modern in-house GP4800 caliber, and a bracelet with more pronounced tapering and a comfortable micro-adjustment system. However, this version was two-toned and limited, raising questions among brand fans: when will a full steel version of the Laureato FIFTY be available without production limits? Today, the brand answers this demand by releasing not only a steel model in the permanent collection but also an entire series with several dial options and case sizes.

Case Options

After a week of using the limited edition Laureato FIFTY with a 39mm case, I can say that the size was very comfortable and thin - better than previous models. However, after trying the new 36mm version, I changed my opinion. Both sizes will suit almost any wrist: 39mm is perfect for medium to large wrists, while 36mm is for slimmer ones. It's important to note that the choice between sizes isn't just about fit but also aesthetic preference: a classic vintage look or a modern, bolder yet restrained design.

The technical specifications of both steel cases are similar: water resistance up to 150 meters, a screw-down crown, and a case thickness of 9.8mm. Choices are available between 36mm and 39mm diameters.

Dials and Their Features

The collection offers three dial options in four configurations. For both sizes (36mm and 39mm), a solid 18-carat rose gold dial with a clous de Paris texture - the signature Laureato pattern in a modern execution - is available. The date window is located at the '3 o'clock' position, matching the dial color without an additional index. The hands and hour markers are also made of 18-carat gold, filled with luminescent material with a blue glow, except for the central seconds hand. There is also a version with a silver dial, which we did not photograph, but it comes with a bezel adorned with diamonds.

For the 39mm version, an additional blue enamel dial with a clous de Paris pattern is offered. Thanks to the enamel coating, the blue color appears richer and more expressive compared to regular blue dials. The feature of this variant is the absence of a date, adding variety to the collection and appealing to fans of a clean design. Note that the configuration with the enamel dial and no date is available exclusively for the 39mm case.

Bracelet with Micro-Adjustment

The new steel Laureato FIFTY models are equipped with a bracelet first introduced in the limited edition but made entirely of steel. The bracelet links are H-shaped and have become more compact in length compared to the 38 and 42mm models. The tapering of the bracelet towards the clasp is significantly increased, and the edges of the links have a more pronounced bevel. Special attention deserves the comfortable adjustment system on both sides of the butterfly clasp, allowing the bracelet length to be adjusted by 2mm on each side without the need for tools.

GP4800 Movement: Technical Features

The in-house GP4800 caliber is one of the most beautifully finished movements in its class. Its main innovation is the balance wheel with a bridge inspired by the brand's logo and the 'Three Bridges' design, made of 18-carat gold, giving the movement visual elegance and a sense of luxury. Technically, the movement is not only beautiful but also functional: the variable moment of inertia improves timekeeping accuracy compared to traditional solutions, and four white gold screws on the balance allow watchmakers to more precisely adjust the caliber. Additionally, the GP4800 has enhanced shock resistance and is equipped with a silicon escapement, significantly increasing its resistance to magnetic fields.

Final Evaluation of the Model

My initial opinion remains unchanged. Judging solely by the technical characteristics and build quality, I lean towards Laureato FIFTY more than competitors like the Royal Oak. It's a choice for true connoisseurs, with a movement that matches and even exceeds its direct competitors in finishing and technical parameters. The thin 39mm case and new 36mm one have excellent proportions for any wrist, while the water resistance up to 150 meters significantly exceeds the competitors' specifications.

The dials are tastefully executed, the cases have high-quality finishing, and the bracelet adjustment system enhances wearing comfort. As for the price, it is $23,100 for the models with the gold dial, $24,200 for the version with the silver dial and diamond bezel, and $24,500 for the version with the blue enamel dial. For comparison, the limited two-tone version of the Laureato FIFTY of 200 pieces was priced at $28,320 - almost $10,000 cheaper than the Royal Oak 'Jumbo'.

Both models are legendary and deserve respect. Despite the high price, the new steel versions of the Laureato FIFTY appear very competitive and are among the luxury integrated bracelet watches worth considering for purchase. Moreover, the collection does not raise concerns about restrictions or exclusive purchasing conditions.

Prices and Availability of Girard-Perregaux Laureato FIFTY Steel

The new Laureato FIFTY collection in stainless steel is available for purchase now.