If Grand Seiko is primarily known for the superior quality of its watch craftsmanship and attention to detail in all aspects of appearance and mechanics, the Japanese brand also has its recurring design codes. The brand often relies on nature and Nippon culture, creating watches that reflect its origin and environment. Grand Seiko is also known for the beauty of its dials with stunning textures... Think of the Snowflake or the White Birch. Earlier this year, the brand introduced a collection of four watches that perfectly reflect this spirit and combination of craftsmanship - the Grand Seiko Elegance 4 Seasons Collection of GMT Watches, or Hi-Beat Shunbun SBGJ251 & Shosho SBGJ249 and Spring Drive Kanro SBGE271 & Toji SBGE269.
4 Seasons Reflected in Four Models
Nature has long had a significant influence on Grand Seiko watches. In addition to being an expert in traditional Japanese techniques, the brand has begun to bring more poetry and charm to its often cold and technical models, which truly became possible with the introduction of the Spring Drive Snowflake model. This watch, model SBGA211, reflected the purity of freshly fallen snow that can be seen in the mountains near Grand Seiko's Shizukuishi manufacture. Such inspiration has become something of a hallmark for GS: many models are inspired by nature, mainly the textures and colors of natural elements. We've seen this, for example, in model SBGH269 with an autumn dial, in model SLGH005 with a dial inspired by the white birch, or more recently in the Masterpiece Spring Drive SBGZ007 with a dial depicting the night sky over Achi, located in the mountains of the southern Japanese region of Shinshu.
The 4 Seasons Collection, first introduced in February this year, became the pinnacle of this combination of natural inspirations and textured dials. As Rebecca explained in her introductory article, “nature is a cornerstone of Japanese culture, revered and feared in equal measure. It is also a dominant theme at Grand Seiko, and the surroundings of the Japanese brand's factories are specially studied to inspire the takumi (craftsmen).”
This new series of watches, whose production is not limited, is inspired by the colors of the changing seasons in Japan. Due to the subtle changes caused by the changing seasons, Japan divides the four seasons into 24 smaller ones or sekki. The watches represent four seasons: Shunbun (spring), Shōsho (summer), Kanro (autumn), and Tōji (winter), while the 24 smaller seasons are represented by the 24-hour GMT marker.
This subcollection actually represents two pairs of watches, differing only in their dials. One pair is equipped with the Hi-Beat automatic movement, and the other pair uses the signature hybrid Spring Drive technology. Nevertheless, they are all GMT models, and all of them are quite impressive timepieces, combining restrained elegance with striking dials. They are all worn on stainless steel bracelets, but they will undoubtedly be equally beautiful on leather straps.
Hi-Beat Automatic Shunbun SBGJ251 and Shosho SBGJ249
As mentioned, this collection of four watches should be divided into two subsections, starting with the two automatic models. In terms of design, Shunbun SBGJ251 and Shōsho SBGJ249, representing spring and summer, are part of the Elegance collection and share the same case with existing GMT models like the SBGM221, which we reviewed in detail here. To be even more precise, these two watches are variations on the theme of models from the permanent collection, namely SBGJ217 and SBGJ219, equipped with the same Hi-Beat GMT movement.
This means we find a beautifully designed, curved case with a thin beveled bezel and softly chamfered lugs on the sides. I know this case well and know how restrained and sophisticated it is, especially in this compact version with a diameter of 39.5 mm. The height, as is often the case with GS, is quite noticeable, but the proportions remain very pleasant. Rounded case lugs, sapphire crystal, smooth lines of the lugs... everything is restrained and classic, but not too traditional. As expected, the surfaces are polished using Zaratsu technology, without distortion, resulting in an excellent case.
Beneath the sapphire case back of these two models lies the usual suspect - caliber 9S86. This automatic movement beats at a frequency of 5 Hz or 36,000 vibrations per hour and can store energy for up to 55 hours. It is known for its reliability and accuracy, with the ability to adjust from +5 to -3 seconds per day. Moreover, it is a true GMT movement, where the local time hour hand is set using the crown in one-hour increments. When viewing the watch through the case back, it is finished in the typical GS manner, slightly cold but very neat.
If we delve into the details, these two watches differ thanks to their dials. And indeed, how different they are. The first model, Shunbun SBGJ251, represents spring. Subdued and dark, it features a dark green dial with a soft cross pattern. In this version, the hands have a matte top surface, and the GMT hand and logo are colored in rose gold. This version is probably the most sophisticated and restrained of all four versions.
The other automatic watch is much more vivid. Indeed, the Shōsho SBGJ249 watch, depicting summer and the “gentle ripples on the many thousands of lakes and ponds” in Japan, is much more evident but no less attractive. The base has the same texture as the White Birch watch, but here with a horizontal pattern and light blue color. This is combined with dark blue accents on the GMT track, hand, and logo, while the central hands are fully polished, even the top surface. The dial is truly mesmerizing and has an intense metallic shimmer.
The Grand Seiko Elegance Hi-Beat GMT 4 Seasons Shunbun SBGJ251 & Shōsho SBGJ249 watches are already available in Grand Seiko boutiques and retail stores at a price of 7,600 euros.
Brief Facts: diameter 39.5 mm x height 14.1 mm - stainless steel case and bracelet, matte and Zaratsu polished - sapphire glass, sapphire case back - water resistance 30 m - caliber 9S86, automatic Hi-Beat, frequency 5 Hz, power reserve 55 h, from +5 to -3 seconds per day, 37 jewels - hours, minutes, seconds, GMT hand, date - ref. Shunbun SBGJ251 and Shosho SBGJ249 - available now - 7,600 euros.
Spring Drive Kanro SBGE271 and Toji SBGE269
The other two models, namely Kanro SBGE271 and Tōji SBGE269, representing autumn and winter, are also part of the Elegance collection but are unprecedented watches as the Spring Drive technology is used for the first time in a classic GMT model. Indeed, these watches are not derivatives of existing technical bases and were developed specifically for this collection. The movement itself is not new, but it is new for the Elegance series.
Compared to the two aforementioned watches, these two Spring Drive models also differ in proportions. Indeed, with the same case shape with curved lugs, angled bezel, and domed sapphire crystal, the diameter is slightly larger - 40.2 mm, and the height is 0.1 mm less. Additionally, the case here is water-resistant up to 100 meters (compared to 30 meters for the Hi-Beat models), and the finish features matte lugs. The display is also slightly different, with a 24-hour scale on the periphery of the dial and, as is often the case with Spring Drive movements, a power reserve indicator.
The caliber 9R66, which beats inside, is a well-known movement found in the Grand Seiko Sport GMT series. This movement uses Spring Drive technology, meaning it has most of the components of an automatic caliber, including the ability for automatic winding, but is regulated by a high-performance quartz device, ensuring time accuracy of ± 1 second per day or ± 15 seconds per month. It stores energy for up to 72 hours and is equipped with a GMT function with a local time hour increment.
The first of the two models, Kanro SBGE271, depicts the colors of autumn. The dial with a random pattern on the surface has a dark and rich color and is accented with gold elements on the GMT track, hand, and logo. The hands are matte with polished bevels, as are the hour markers. As with the Shunbun model, this is a comparatively restrained combination of color and texture, but in this Kanro edition, it is slightly more noticeable.
The fourth and final model in the 4 Seasons collection - Tōji SBGE269 - embodies winter. According to the brand, “the dial has the texture and color of a winter landscape when the sun falls lower in the sky.” To achieve this, it has a silvery metallic base with a strong grainy texture - almost hammer-like - as well as gold accents on the GMT logo and hand. The result is truly striking up close, but fortunately less showy when viewed from a distance (understandably, on the wrist). This texture, new for Grand Seiko, makes the SBGE269 model one of the most attractive among the latest releases, in my opinion.
Grand Seiko Elegance Spring Drive GMT 4 Seasons Kanro SBGE271 & Tōji SBGE269 will be available from September 2021 in GS boutiques and retail stores at a price of 6,800 euros.
Brief Specifications: diameter 40.2 mm x height 14 mm - stainless steel case and bracelet, matte and Zaratsu polished - sapphire glass, sapphire case back - water resistance 100 m - caliber 9R66, Spring Drive, automatic, power reserve 72 hours, ±1 second per day, 30 jewels - hours, minutes, seconds, GMT hand, date, power reserve - ref. Kanro SBGE271 & Toji SBGE269 - available in September 2021 - 6,800 euros.
For more detailed information, visit grand-seiko.com.