What happens when you combine one of H. Moser's minimalist perpetual calendars with the sporty Streamliner? The answer is the Streamliner Perpetual Calendar, a successful blend of two different models powered by a newly developed hand-wound movement. H. Moser & Cie. once again showcases its talent for presenting complex complications in deceptively simple cases.
At the Geneva Watch Days 2021, the new H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Perpetual Calendar model was introduced. The third iteration of the Streamliner model, the Perpetual Calendar takes Moser's most prolific complication and applies what has become a breakthrough in the brand's collection. There are not many steel watches with a perpetual calendar, integrated bracelets, and 120 m water resistance, especially in this price range. With the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and Patek Philippe Nautilus Perpetual Calendar selling at six-digit prices, the market craves what brands like Moser offer.
The Streamliner Perpetual Calendar case/bracelet is made of the same matte steel and in the same style as its predecessors, though it is significantly thinner than the flyback chronograph. With a width of 42.3 mm and a thickness of 11 mm without the crystal (closer to 12 mm with the crystal), the watch feels balanced and secure on the wrist due to the cushion-shaped case and comfortable bracelet. I believe the Blackor fumé dial is the same anthracite-grey color that was featured in the Streamliner Flyback Chronograph model. Additionally, I like the new transparent lacquer logo on the dial, which we first saw in the Pioneer Mega Cool earlier this year.
In 2005, the then newly re-established H. Moser & Cie introduced the world to the Perpetual 1 watch, debuting the HMC 341 Perpetual Calendar movement, which won the GPHG Complicated Watch Prize in 2006. With its minimalist design, ability to set the date forward and backward, and yes, an interchangeable escapement module, the HMC 341 Perpetual Calendar became the cornerstone of the Moser model range.
Over the 16 years since the debut of the HMC 341, Moser has released several perpetual calendar movements: HMC 800 and HMC 808 for the Pioneer collection. In this release, we see the new HMC 812 Perpetual Calendar hand-wound movement, which refreshes and updates the modern classic for the Streamliner without changing what makes it so remarkable. The most obvious update that Moser fans will notice is the removal of the small seconds subdial and the addition of a central seconds hand. As a result, the Streamliner Perpetual Calendar has four central hands: hours, minutes, seconds, and month.
The design of the Perpetual Calendar dial by Moser is a fine example of economical design. The 12-hour indices around the dial also serve as indices for each of the 12 months of the year, and a small red-and-white central hand points to the current month. It is elegantly simple. As with all other Moser perpetual calendars, the leap year indicator is on the movement side, with a red hand indicating whether it is a leap year or not.
At the “10 o'clock” position is an indicator showing how much is left of the seven-day (168-hour) power reserve, with a red zone for the last 48 hours. Opposite the power reserve indicator at the “4 o'clock” position is a large date display that changes instantly at midnight. For those not entirely familiar with Moser perpetual calendars, the ability to set the date forward and backward is so rare that I do not believe any other brand does this.
The finish of the HMC 812 movement is impressive, as expected from higher-end Moser watches, and I am a fan of the dark tones. With the alternation of anthracite-grey PVD coating and anthracite-rhodium plating, the HMC 812 has a moody and modern look - fortunately, not too modern, as such old-school touches as gold chatons and Moser stripes are fully displayed. The HMC 812 operates at a frequency of 18,000 vph and has a minimum seven-day power reserve, although I believe it can actually reach nine days.
The H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Perpetual Calendar is truly a niche watch in theory, but to fully appreciate it, you need to see it in metal. The impeccable finish of the case, bracelet, dial, and movement create a complete package that must be tried by buyers weary of the hype surrounding regular watches. The price of the Streamliner Perpetual Calendar is 54,500 USD. More information can be found on the h-moser.com website.
SPECIFICATIONS – H. MOSER & CIE. STREAMLINER PERPETUAL CALENDAR
Case: 42.3 mm diameter x 11 mm height – stainless steel with integrated bracelet, matte and polished – screw-down crown at 4 o'clock – domed sapphire crystal over the dial, transparent case back – water resistance 120 m
Dial: grey fumé with sunray pattern – applied indices – hour and minute hands with Globolight inserts – central seconds hand – date aperture at 4 o'clock – central red-and-white month indicator hand – leap year on case back – power reserve indicator at 10 o'clock
Movement: caliber HMC 812 – in-house hand-wound – 34 mm x 6.3 mm – 18,000 vph – 33 jewels – double barrel for 168-hour power reserve – modular interchangeable Moser escapement – original Straumann hairspring – gold escapement wheel and pallet fork – screw-in gold chatons – hours, minutes, central direct-drive seconds, perpetual calendar with large date, month, and leap year, power reserve indicator
Reference: 6812-1200
Price: 54,500 USD