From a 1960s Cartier Tank with an original flip cover to a Boucheron clutch with integrated watches.
On June 4, at Villa Principe Leopoldo in Lugano, the Monaco Legends auction house held a watch auction. Almost all lots were sold, with total auction proceeds amounting to CHF 16,267,125. We selected lots that sold for at least twice their estimates. Most of these are vintage Cartier models from the mid-20th century.
Cartier Tank Obus Savonette
This model, with a yellow gold case, was released in the 1960s. The highlight of the watch is its gold flip cover that conceals the dial. The case is adorned with five cabochons, one of which traditionally decorates the crown. Two upper cabochons are decorative, while the two lower ones serve as buttons to open the flip cover.
Estimate: CHF 80,000 - 160,000
Sold for CHF 325,000
Cartier Baignoire Oblique London
This yellow gold model was released around 1967 and was made at Cartier's London branch. A unique feature of this model is its case, which is rotated about 30 degrees relative to the strap. Experts know of only two other examples from this series.
Estimate: CHF 50,000 - 100,000
Sold for CHF 250,000
Rolex King Midas Ref. 9630
This model is one of the earliest from the King Midas collection, dating back to around 1961. To be precise, less than 800 pieces were produced in the first King Midas series, and this one is No. 003. The first 250 pieces in this series did not have the "King Midas" engraving on the side of the case. Additionally, the "Swiss" marking on the dial is located at the top, directly under the Rolex logo, rather than at the usual 6 o'clock position, enhancing the model's exclusivity.
Estimate: CHF 30,000 - 60,000
Sold for CHF 125,000
Cartier Tank Obus London
Another model from the Tank Obus series, featuring a yellow gold case. This model is named for its unusual lug shape ("Obus" translates to "shell" in French). The watch dates back to around 1967. The dial has a beautiful ivory shade with a soft, even patina. Other details that enhance its appeal to collectors include matching numbers on the case back and buckle.
Estimate: CHF 20,000 - 40,000
Sold for CHF 218,750
Cartier Tank Normale London
This yellow gold model dates back to around 1949. The watch's highlight is its dial with a cross-hatched guilloché pattern, which, combined with the slightly convex glass, creates soft reflections and a beautiful play of light.
Estimate: CHF 20,000 - 40,000
Sold for CHF 175,000
Rolex Day-Date Ref. 18238
This model dates back to around 1988. The uniqueness of the watch is its obsidian dial, which creates a striking contrast with the yellow gold case. The importance of this piece is confirmed by its inclusion in Pucci Papaleo's book "DAY-DATE, The Presidential Rolex" (pages 412–413).
Estimate: CHF 18,000 - 36,000
Sold for CHF 112,500
Jaeger-LeCoultre Lady Cuff
This bracelet watch from the 1930s is made of yellow gold and set with faceted citrines, varying in shades from honey to golden amber. At the center of the composition is a hidden hand-wound mechanism.
Estimate: CHF 12,000 - 24,000
Sold for CHF 45,000
Rolex Datejust Ref. 16014
This stainless steel model dates back to around 1988. The main feature of this watch is its malachite dial, which softens the strict geometry of the 36mm case. For French-speaking audiences, it is also interesting because it once belonged to French actor Roméo Sarfati.
Estimate: CHF 10,000 - 20,000
Sold for CHF 50,000
Cartier Santos Carrée "75th Anniversary" Ref. 2960
This model was released in 1979 to mark the 75th anniversary of the first Cartier Santos model. The watch is notable for its departure from traditional Cartier design. Instead of Roman numerals and a "railroad" minute track, the steel case features a minimalist dial without markers, in the brand's signature red color. Complementing the dial, the cabochon on the crown is red, not blue. Inside is an automatic movement.
Estimate: CHF 4,000 - 8,000
Sold for CHF 52,000
Rolex Datejust Ref. 16000
Another model from Roméo Sarfati's collection. Again, a stainless steel case with a gemstone dial. Here, the dial is made of tiger's eye. Amidst the current trend for stone-dial models, such models are in demand.
Estimate: CHF 4,000 - 8,000
Sold for CHF 20,000
Boucheron Minaudière Watch
An unusual 1930s clutch with integrated wristwatch. The bag itself is made of silver, with engraving in the form of an openwork floral pattern in pink gold at the center of the clutch.
The clutch's clasp is adorned with a wristwatch featuring a pink gold case. The dial is made of enamel, and the entire perimeter of the case features intricate floral engraving. Inside the watch is a hand-wound mechanism.
Estimate: CHF 4,000 - 8,000
Sold for CHF 16,250