Twenty-five years ago, Ulysse Nardin made a bold choice by naming its new flagship model "Freak."
Despite the innovative nature of the watch, the word "freak" itself (from English) evoked mixed feelings. Over the decades, it has acquired numerous meanings - from fanatic and enthusiast to counterculture, drug addict, and even acrobat. Recently, the phrase "freak off" became one of the most popular Google search queries, linked to a well-known court case. For the traditionally reserved Swiss watch industry, the decision to name a watch "Freak" was, to say the least, unexpected. Although norms change, even a quarter-century ago, this word was not considered appropriate in polite society.
Nevertheless, "Freak" remains the most accurate name for Ulysse Nardin's most iconic model. At its launch in 2001, a watch without hands, a crown, or a dial was indeed a "freak." However, like the iPhone retaining its innovativeness only by some expansion of definition, the Freak underwent only iterative changes: new bezels, composite materials, and in 2013 - (horror!) automatic winding. Complaining about the lack of revolutionary technologies in a watch that was initially a quantum leap in innovation is like criticizing the Starship spacecraft for a failed landing; it's a miracle that the $11 million structure even takes off and sometimes returns to Earth intact. However, in 2026, the Freak indeed made an unprecedented breakthrough. Presented at Watches & Wonders in Geneva, the Ulysse Nardin [Super] Freak claims to be the most technically complex mechanical watch displaying only time - and it is evident to the naked eye.
Design and Construction: A Visual Feast and Technical Complexity
Upon closer inspection, the [Super] Freak is a true visual feast. Like all models in the Freak series, it features a freely rotating module containing the entire transmission and anchor mechanism. The mechanism makes two rotations per day, and its massiveness is immediately striking. Compared to other models in the collection, it becomes clear that the [Super] Freak differs in construction. For the first time in the model's history, Ulysse Nardin has added several tourbillons at once - they occupy significant space within the case.
The image that comes to mind (although I'm not a car enthusiast - apologies) is "V8" due to the dual-chamber configuration of the tourbillons and balances, reminiscent of the arrangement of cylinders around a crankshaft. A more skeptical view - or Maude Lebowski's view - might see this as a "barbell" or "Johnson," but for a watch steeped in masculine spirit, this may be the intention. After all, the brand once described the clasp on the Blast model as "a couple performing a dynamic and erotic tango," so any sexual undertones are not excluded here.
Technical Features and Innovations
The main feature of the [Super] Freak is its open design, which leaves no doubt about its technical superiority. Ulysse Nardin continues to hold a leading position in Swiss watch engineering. As repeatedly emphasized in press releases, the watch contains 511 individual components, of which 97% are in motion during operation. But how is such a complex device even created? This is precisely the question the brand seeks to evoke in everyone who sees these watches for the first time - and it seems they succeed brilliantly.
Continuing the automotive analogy, observing the [Super] Freak at work is like watching the assembly and testing of a high-performance engine in the Netflix documentary series "Drive to Survive." The number of visible connection points is striking. The mechanism features a 5 mm diameter differential consisting of 69 components, as well as an even smaller (4.8 mm) gimbal suspension made of 11 parts, which transmits an averaged impulse from the two tourbillons along the mentioned "shaft" to the rotating cylinder displaying seconds at the end of the minute hand. Despite having over 320 parts, the carousel weighs only 3.5 grams. What is particularly impressive is that this highly complex mechanism is assembled, tested, disassembled, adjusted, and reassembled. For anyone who has ever tried to adjust a tiny screw on a pair of glasses, the work of the watchmakers of the [Super] Freak commands deep respect.
How to Read Time on [Super] Freak
Like other Freak models, the [Super] Freak uses a wide wing-like hour hand, which is part of the light blue rotating disk made from Nanosital - a patented material resembling glass but with hardness similar to ceramic. The minute hand, covered with a similar luminescent compound, makes a full rotation every hour along with the rest of the carousel. The novelty is the rotating seconds indication, appearing for the first time in the Freak series. The irony is that all the precision provided by the double tourbillon with patented gimbal suspensions and differentials is somewhat offset by the lack of a minute scale. However, common sense suggests that Ulysse Nardin will gladly produce a version with minute markings on the outer disc upon request from serious clients.
The mechanism is based on the UN-252 caliber, powered by the Grinder winding system - a specially patented system. Four spring levers transfer energy to the mainspring at the slightest movement, providing the most gentle winding mode. This is important because excessive oscillations or winding could damage such a complex mechanism.
Case and Strap: Combination of Practicality and Luxury
The [Super] Freak case is made of 18-karat white gold. The latest models in the series had a tactical design, and while a white gold watch is usually hard to imagine as "tactical," the linear brushing of the surface gives it a surprisingly practical look. The case diameter is 44 mm, slightly smaller than previous Freak versions, but the height reaches over 16.5 mm due to the high sapphire crystal needed to accommodate the complex mechanism. The watch comes with a light gray rubber strap with a ballistic pattern and a white gold folding clasp with a push-button mechanism.
Conclusions and Future of the Collection
If Ulysse Nardin's goal was to remind the world of the power of the Freak, then it has been achieved. After 25 years of having no crown, dial, or hands, the question remains: where will the collection go next? The Freak has never prioritized complex complications (the model's architecture does not easily allow for the integration of GMT, chronographs, and similar functions), so perhaps the [Super] Freak is the pinnacle of the series for now. It's not a farewell song, but perhaps a climax before a pause.
Due to its technical complexity, the Ulysse Nardin [Super] Freak (ref. 2520-500LE-3A-BLUE/3A) is released in a limited edition of 50 pieces and has a retail price of $393,600, making it one of the most expensive new releases at this year's Watches & Wonders.
