In a sea of similar and mostly conservative watch releases, new timepieces occasionally emerge that are so avant-garde, so unique, or so different from the norm that they linger in enthusiasts' memories for years after their initial announcement (for better or worse).
The first limited edition collaboration between Hublot and the renowned French leather producer Berluti in 2016 became a textbook example, with a wild concept of an embossed leather dial unlike any other and a rich patinated color palette. Since then, the two brands have explored this leather dial technique several times, and in their latest release, Hublot returns to a unique leather-focused design with a new sharp monochromatic look. The new limited edition Hublot Big Bang Unico Berluti Aluminio combines new elements of finely crafted leather with an ultra-modern 'grey on grey' color scheme, creating one of the most memorable and restrained interpretations of the Big Bang in recent years.
Despite what the name might suggest, the case of the Hublot Big Bang Unico Berluti Aluminio does not contain aluminum but refers to the textured, patinated Aluminio Venezia finish from grey leather used throughout. Instead, the 44mm integrated case is made of titanium with the usual Big Bang series blend of complex modernist layers, sharp angles, and matte, polished, and matte-black surfaces.
The real change to the standard Big Bang formula here comes with the bezel, which uses an Aluminio Venezia leather insert held in place by a layer of adhesive resin and then attached to the case with the signature Big Bang screws with an H-shaped pattern. By leaving the leather ring exposed to the elements, the bezel of the Big Bang Unico Berluti Aluminio develops a natural patina over time, just like the leather strap. Despite leather's less than stellar track record with water, Hublot rates the Big Bang Unico Berluti Aluminio for the standard 100 meters of water resistance for this line - though how the bezel will perform in such conditions remains an open question.
As with previous collaborations with Berluti, the semi-skeletonized dial of the Hublot Big Bang Unico Berluti Aluminio is made from a thick, durable layer of Berluti leather. Through the gaufering process, bold cut-out numerals, indices, and the '3 o'clock' subdial border are stamped onto the dial surface with a hot iron.
The result is a deep charcoal-grey indentation on the Big Bang Unico Berluti Aluminio's surface, which, combined with the porous neutral grey of the main dial surface, creates an almost concrete-like effect in the initial images. Beyond the modernist monochrome color scheme and unique material use, this is one of the simplest and most restrained dials in the Big Bang Unico lineup, with a central skeleton window revealing clean matte bridges, gear train elements, and a running seconds indicator at 9 o'clock. The signature wide skeletonized Big Bang hand is also made from rhodium and sharply reflects the matte leather dial surface.
Hublot equips the Big Bang Unico Berluti Aluminio with its in-house automatic chronograph movement HUB1280 with a flyback function. As with most other Hublot movements, the finishing is simple and modernist, limited mostly to the treatment of the skeleton bridges and the cut-out tungsten rotor. However, in terms of performance, this column-wheel chronograph movement is state-of-the-art, providing a powerful 72-hour power reserve at a frequency of 28,800 beats per hour.
Naturally, any joint design with a leather company heavily depends on the quality of the strap, and the Hublot Big Bang Unico Berluti Aluminio does not disappoint here. Utilizing Hublot's modern sports concept with a rubber lining, the tapered natural leather strap is dyed in the Aluminio Venezia grey to match the bezel and dial. This strap, with a titanium folding clasp, features a pronounced texture and nuances in the initial images.
Combining surprisingly restrained and minimal aesthetics with truly unique leather components, the limited edition Hublot Big Bang Unico Berluti Aluminio is a stylish departure from the norm for the brand in several ways. Only 100 pieces of the Hublot Big Bang Unico Berluti Aluminio will be produced, and the watch is now available from official dealers for $25,200 USD. For more information, you can visit the brand's website.