Recently, one of our colleagues wrote a fascinating article arguing the advantage of quantity over "quality."
He demonstrated how to assemble diverse and interesting collections of three watches for the price of a two-tone Rolex Datejust 36. This made us think and even a bit envious. The whole team decided to try to create their own affordable three-watch collections! The rules were simple: choose three watches, each costing no more than $5000, and no repeating brands (three Tudors have already been tried in another challenge...). Each author ended up with a unique selection.
Variant 1: Nomos, Grand Seiko, Christopher Ward
For the first model, I wanted something reliable, sporty, and with a travel time function: world time, dual time, GMT - I love all these complications, and a collection without such a movement would be incomplete. My colleague called the Nomos Club Sport neomatik World Timer his favorite watch of 2025, and I am also fond of them. The world time complication here is elegantly and conveniently executed, and the 100-meter water resistance allows you to swim in them, especially if the watch is on a bracelet. The design is very concise, with an excellently finished in-house movement, and available in a wide range of colors. Simply put, an excellent value for money.
Next, I needed a classic model. Imagine being able to buy mechanical Grand Seiko watches for less than $5000 in 2026! The SBGR261 model - one of the lesser-known in the Elegance collection - proves that if you look beyond the popular White Birch, Snowflake, and Omiwatari, you can find true gems. The watch offers a vintage ivory Calatrava-style dial, an automatic caliber with a 3-day power reserve in a 39.5mm case, and everything else you expect from GS: Zaratsu polished lugs, dauphine hands, and an accuracy of +5/-3 seconds per day. What more could you need?
Finally, there must be a striking accent in the collection. For under $5000, it's hard to beat the Christopher Ward C1 Bel Canto Lumière for the "wow" effect. These affordable striking watches attract attention in any form, but add abundant luminescent coating - large Globolight blocks on the hands and subdial, as well as plenty of Super-LumiNova on the main dial and strap - and you get a watch that stuns in the dark. It may sound immodest, but the Bel Canto Lumière looks like a watch ten times its price, and that was the goal of our challenge.
Variant 2: Cartier, Anoma, Longines
My collection will not be entirely balanced, rather leaning towards classic models. They don't necessarily have to be worn with a suit, but there is such an option, as well as with jeans and a T-shirt. Hearing that the budget should not exceed $5000, I immediately chose the Cartier Tank Must. Personally, I prefer the model with a black dial, but the classic white with the SolarBeat movement is also a great option - a matter of taste. The model appeared in 2022 and has since been part of the permanent collection. It's an icon with an expressive dial, the same size as the more expensive Tank Louis, but without a seconds hand, making it hard to guess they're quartz watches. I thought about buying for a long time before settling on a larger model.
For the second choice, I turned to a young promising brand. I met Matteo from Anoma even before their first model was released, and it's a rare case when the product is as impressive as the person presenting it. The A1 Optical is the brand's most conceptual model to date and, in my opinion, best reflects the brand's philosophy. These are unique sculptural watches with character, noticeable from afar, and upon closer inspection, attract with detailed elaboration: from reflections on the dial's reliefs to the special choice of stainless steel with an unusual shine. Each element works both separately and in harmony with the others.
To complete the selection, you need a versatile tool that can be worn every day without fear of damage. The Longines Spirit Zulu Time is exactly such a watch. The 39mm case provides good readability without bulkiness, and the 100-meter water resistance allows for almost any activity except deep diving. The convenient world time complication is not only beautiful but also practical. The model is available in several versions: on a steel bracelet, fabric, or leather strap, in different colors. In my opinion, the black and gray with rose gold is the most impressive - it adds elegance and sophistication to an already excellent tool.
Variant 3: Tudor, Oris, Sinn
I chose three diver/tool watches. The Tudor Black Bay 54 is a rare case of a watch that exceeds its price segment. The 37mm diameter and 11.2mm thickness create ideal proportions - compact but not small, solid but not heavy. This is not just a retro model, but a full-fledged tool watch with 200-meter water resistance, a screw-down crown, domed sapphire crystal, and a unidirectional bezel. Inside is the COSC-certified caliber MT5400 with a 70-hour power reserve, making the watch a reliable everyday companion. The T-fit clasp with micro-adjustment adds practicality and emphasizes the thoughtful design.
The Oris Aquis Date 41.5 is a modern diver's watch designed for real use. With 300-meter water resistance, a multi-component stainless steel case with a ceramic bezel, domed sapphire crystal with internal anti-reflective coating, and a transparent case back, it gives the impression of a high-tech tool. The Calibre 400 movement is the model's key feature, offering an impressive 120-hour power reserve. The 22mm lug distance makes the watch versatile, easily changing character depending on the strap - bracelet, rubber, or leather.
The Sinn 556 I takes a different approach: a focus on basic values without excessive embellishments. The minimalist dial, clear readability, and absence of unnecessary details make these watches among the cleanest in the everyday segment. The 38.5mm diameter and 11mm thickness are optimal sizes for daily wear. With 200-meter water resistance, a screw-down crown, and sapphire crystals front and back, they ensure reliability. The Sellita SW200-1 movement with stop-seconds guarantees easy maintenance, and compliance with the DIN 8309 anti-magnetic standard adds confidence. These are watches that can endlessly change straps or simply wear on a bracelet and forget - the highest praise for a universal piece.
Variant 4: Longines, Christopher Ward, Ōtsuka Lōtec
The Longines Heritage Classic is a watch that has always eluded me. Since its release in 2019, it has become popular due to its gorgeous sector-style dial with excellent readability. Although trends have shifted a bit, I still find this model stunning and timeless. The proportions are perfect, and details like the blue hands complete the look. These are character-filled watches, the choice of a true connoisseur.
When it comes to value for money, Christopher Ward is a great example. The C12 Loco model is one of the best offers on the market, providing sophisticated in-house watchmaking for a modest price. The integrated bracelet gives the watch a modern futuristic look. The main advantage is the open balance and anchor mechanism, located at the front for all to see. After a few days with the Loco, I can say it's a great everyday option that sparks interest and brings joy.
It's easy to assume I would choose the Ōtsuka Lōtec No. 5 Kai due to its popularity and scarcity, but these watches truly deserve attention. They look brutal and mechanical, more like a machine than most other models, and are a great example of modern Japanese craft watchmaking. Ōtsuka Lōtec is unique and beautifully made, and although the design is rich in details, that's what makes them appealing - drama and emotions. For such a price (if you can buy at retail), it's hard to find competitors.
Variant 5: Isotope, SpaceOne, Formex
I could have chosen three models from the list I compiled for a collection priced as a two-tone Datejust, but I decided to bring variety and prioritize modern designs and unusual materials while maintaining practicality: a chronograph, world time, and universal watch.
The Isotope Moonshot Stealth is a creative take on a three-subdial chronograph, reminiscent of modern versions of the black IWC Porsche Design chronographs of the 1980s. The case and bracelet are made of DLC-coated grade 5 titanium, with the case measuring 41mm wide, 15mm thick, and 49.5mm lug-to-lug. The chronograph functions are displayed with rotating discs, showing elapsed time while covering the rest of the subdial. Luminous material is applied to the skeletonized hands and the dial edge, creating a striking look in the dark. The movements - Valjoux 7753 or Landeron 73 in elaboré or top-decorated versions - provide a 44-hour power reserve. There are sapphire crystals front and back, 100-meter water resistance, and a screw-down crown. An additional rubber strap is included.
The SpaceOne Worldtimer is a watch I constantly return to. An avant-garde design in a wearable and affordable format, with a functional and relatively easy-to-understand world time feature. The grade 5 titanium case with a matte-polished finish, sapphire crystals, and in-house world time complication based on Soprod P024 offer an excellent balance of price and quality. Despite the impressive diameter of 52.7mm, the lug distance is only 41.9mm, making the watch quite wearable. Suitable for fans of unusual modern designs.
To complete the collection, a more practical option is needed. The Formex Essence Ceramica Gamaret is a robust all-rounder with a proprietary case suspension system, crafted in a ceramic case with a fully ceramic bracelet and micro-adjustable ceramic clasp. Excellent finishing, 100-meter water resistance, and an adjustable clasp make these watches well-thought-out. Despite the more restrained dial options, I chose the black-red one - I like it. Luminous material on the hands, indices, and date window adds practicality. Inside is the COSC-certified automatic Soprod Newton P092 with laser engraving, a skeletonized rotor, and a 44-hour power reserve. The GADA formula is preserved with added individuality.
Variant 6: Tudor, echo/neutra, Furlan Marri
If you ask me which watch is best to buy for $5000, the first that comes to mind is Tudor. Black Bay or FXD GMT Zulu Time are reliable options. My first choice is the BB54, but for variety in this selection, I chose the Black Bay 58 Burgundy. The bright red dial and bezel pair perfectly with my dark wardrobe and signature sunglasses with pink lenses, adding the necessary reliability. The 39mm diameter, 200-meter water resistance, certified Master Chronometer automatic with a 70-hour power reserve, and T-fit micro-adjustable bracelet make it a reliable choice, even though it's $50 over the limit (on a rubber strap, the price is below $5000).
For classic watches that match my style, I chose the echo/neutra Rivanera Piccolo - a more compact version of the original. I like the monochrome design and modern interpretation of the classic Tank Normale silhouette. The use of lightweight titanium and quality finishing make the model attractive. Price - $1980.
To balance the collection, I chose the Furlan Marri Disco Volante Onyx Diamonds - a watch that means a lot to me: the Onewatch team gifted it to me on our fifth anniversary. The black onyx dial and lab-grown diamond indices pair wonderfully. Interestingly, 5 o'clock is marked with diamonds - a symbol of the fifth anniversary. The watch's sizes are universal - not too vintage and not too modern. The ability to quickly change the bracelet to a Milanese or leather strap adds convenience.
The biggest surprise was the transparent case back. I was skeptical about the claim of hand finishing on the ETA/Peseux 7001 movement, but even at a price below $5000 and with an expensive dial with diamonds, the beveled edges on the movement's bridges are superbly done.
Variant 7: RZE, Universal Genève, Omega
This might be considered bending the rules, but I see it as technically correct and perhaps intellectually sound. Under budget constraints, I won't choose vintage or pre-owned watches. We live in a real world where the cost-of-living crisis hits hard, and I approach this challenge with a practical standpoint that matches my personal experience. My collection must be versatile and suitable for any conditions, so I can't choose three rare but fragile vintage pieces, even if it would be the most profitable investment.
Nevertheless, I chose one new watch - the RZE UTD-8000 in bright yellow, spending only $279 of the $5000 limit (approximately 435 Australian dollars). I'm not saving for the sake of saving - I could have chosen the most expensive metal G-Shock as a "workhorse," but after seeing how the RZE falls and hits concrete without a scratch, I can't wait for my model. I'm already planning to accidentally bump into door handles - and win.
The next choice is the Universal Genève Polerouter, a watch I consider the most beautiful ever created. They are perfect for special occasions and also complement everyday and work ensembles. There are many options, and for $5000, I advise looking for the cleanest and best specimen. If you're lucky, you might even find a gold version - it would be truly special.
My first two choices were obvious: Polerouter and something akin to a G-Shock (shows how much space these watches occupy in my mind). For the third watch, I chose a classic model with a rich history connected to one of humanity's greatest achievements - the Omega Speedmaster. There are many options, and while the chances of finding early Professional versions are slim, I would focus on reference 145.012 - the most affordable option with the caliber 321 and all the necessary NASA history.
This selection demonstrates how, with a limited budget of $5000, you can assemble diverse, functional, and stylish collections of three watches, considering different styles and preferences. This approach allows satisfying the demands of both classic enthusiasts and fans of modern and avant-garde solutions.