Most people might associate H. Moser & Cie. with a slightly irreverent, fresh, and modern approach to haute horlogerie, characterized by bold and original designs that are unmistakable. However, H. Moser & Cie. is not just about cool design; it is also a legitimate integrated manufacturer capable of almost entirely creating watches and their movements. The brand possesses the skills and knowledge, and sometimes it wants to showcase them in a more restrained, sophisticated, and traditional form. This is how the Heritage line came into being - a collection that pays homage to Heinrich Moser, the man behind the name. The latest addition to this series is the elegant, complex, and refined Heritage Perpetual Calendar Midnight Blue Enamel.
In creating the Heritage line, H. Moser & Cie. drew inspiration from watches that recall the brand's history, particularly from the early 20th century. The Heritage name conceals watches inspired by pocket watches, transformed into wristwatches in the early 1920s through slender lugs on a soft round case. While there are models inspired by pilots, such as the Centre Seconds, the brand decided to bring back some design elements from recent years. Combined with high-end materials and traditional decorating techniques, the result is an unusual classic watch with a lot of personality.
The Heritage Perpetual Calendar case, with a 42 mm diameter, is made of 18-carat white gold. As mentioned, its design is reminiscent of reworked pocket watches and features thin wire lugs. The most striking element is undoubtedly the decoration on the lugs, adorned with geometric engraving and coated in blue lacquer. The watch also features a large notched crown, further emphasizing its vintage design.
The dial also showcases traditional craftsmanship and is made of Grand Feu enamel in the typical Moser fumé blue color with a subtle gradient effect. The clear and elegant dial features white Roman numerals and railway tracks, along with thin polished swallow-shaped hands. Despite being a QP, the Moser Heritage dial remains exceptionally clean and uncluttered, revealing only the most essential features. In addition to central hours/minutes, there is a small seconds hand at the 6 o'clock position, a discreet power reserve indication at 9 o'clock, and a large date at 3 o'clock… Where are the calendar indicators? The months are displayed via a small central hand pointing to one of the 12-hour markers, and the leap year is shown on the back of the watch.
Behind the sapphire case back is the well-known HMC 800 caliber from Moser. This simple and original hand-wound movement can be set forward or backward at any time of day. Thanks to the "Flash Calendar" system, the date changes instantly at midnight, accounting for months with 30 or 31 days and leap years. It is also powerful, with a 7-day power reserve and exquisitely decorated with double Moser stripes, screw-mounted gold chatons, and polished bevels.
Availability and Price
The H. Moser & Cie. Heritage Perpetual Calendar Midnight Blue Enamel will be released in a limited edition of 20 pieces. Its price is 99,000 Swiss Francs, and it can be ordered directly from the brand's website.
More detailed information can be found at www.h-moser.com.
TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS – H. MOSER & CIE. HERITAGE PERPETUAL CALENDAR MIDNIGHT BLUE ENAMEL
Case: 42 mm diameter x 12.6 mm height – 18-carat white gold case, side engraving – sapphire crystal front and back
Dial: midnight blue Grand Feu enamel with white Roman numerals and tracks – polished swallow hands
Movement: caliber HMC 800, in-house – manual winding QP – 34 mm x 6.3 mm – 32 jewels – double barrel for 7-day power reserve – 18,000 vph – interchangeable Moser escapement, Straumann hairspring, gold pallet fork and escape wheel – hours, minutes, small seconds, perpetual calendar with large date, hand month, leap year on case back, power reserve indicator
Strap: hand-stitched midnight blue alligator leather – 18-carat white gold clasp
Reference: 8800-0203 – limited to 20 pieces
Price: 99,000 SWISS FRANCS
