Recently, the watch world lost an outstanding figure: Jean-Marie Schaller, owner and creative force of the Louis Moinet brand, peacefully passed away on May 16 at the age of 66.
Despite this loss, the brand continues to evolve, maintaining its unique and original style. One way to mark this occasion is with a new model - the Louis Moinet 1816 Chronograph Champagne. The case and integrated bracelet are made from lightweight grade 5 titanium, and the dial, with its characteristically historically accurate layout, has a deep, rich champagne color. Additionally, the design features numerous details reminiscent of the celebratory beverage.
If it weren't for Jean-Marie Schaller, few would know that watchmaker Louis Moinet created the first chronograph in history in 1816, and the Louis Moinet brand might not exist today. We thank Jean-Marie for all the magnificent creations he has given the world in recent years. The brand continues its traditions, presenting a new version of the model that debuted at Watches and Wonders 2025 - the 1816 Chronograph Champagne.
History and Features of the Original Louis Moinet 1816 Chronograph
The Louis Moinet 1816 pocket watch assisted astronomers in performing precise calculations. The unique compteur de tierces mechanism (thirds counter) allowed the measurement of star speeds, as the central chronograph hand displayed 1/60th of a second on the outer dial scale. A design feature was the sub-dials positioned at 1, 6, and 11 o'clock - a principle retained in the modern 1816 Chronograph.
LM1816 Movement - A New Generation of Classic
Due to the unusual layout, Louis Moinet, in collaboration with movement manufacturing partner Concepto, developed a new caliber - LM1816. This chronograph consists of 330 components, features a column wheel, and offers the following functions: a jumping 30-minute counter at 1 o'clock, a 12-hour counter at 6 o'clock, and a small second at 11 o'clock. The hand-wound movement measures 30.4 × 7.9 mm, operates at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour, and has a power reserve of up to 48 hours. It uses 34 jewels and is equipped with a classic regulator with a black-polished 'swan neck' for precise adjustment of the active length of the balance spring.
Unlike the original mechanism, the modern caliber cannot measure 1/60th of a second, but this is not a drawback, considering that the vast majority of watch enthusiasts do not require such precision.
Visual Delight from a High-End Manual Chronograph
A high-end manual chronograph is not only a technical achievement but also an aesthetic pleasure. Thanks to the construction and finishing of numerous small details, the open case back of the watch allows you to admire the LM1816 caliber with its bridges and main plate, covered with 3N gold and decorated with beveled edges (anglage). This level of finishing deserves close attention.
New Champagne Dial with Depth and Expressiveness
The dial of the 1816 Chronograph Champagne model received a new expressive champagne color, making it more vibrant and lively compared to the monochrome rhodium-plated variant. The four-layer construction creates significant depth.
The main external track of the dial contains 60 divisions, originally intended for measuring 1/60th of a second, and is adorned with 12 black nickel hour indices with cabochons, as well as four thermally blued screws, highlighting the technical nature of the watch.
A polished bevel leads to the next level, where an applied lily logo and the Louis Moinet signature are positioned on a textured background. Below are the recessed chronograph counters with a multi-step construction and contrasting surfaces, enhancing information perception. All hands on the sub-dials are blue for easy reading. The central hour and minute hands feature an open design with luminescent tips for better visibility in the dark.
Grade 5 Titanium Case and Bracelet: A Blend of Modernity and Tradition
The case, measuring 40.6 mm in diameter and 14.7 mm thick, is crafted from grade 5 titanium with polished and satin-finished surfaces. It consists of 51 components and is water-resistant up to 50 meters. The design features large traditional pump buttons and a crown engraved with a lily - the symbol of the city of Bourges, Louis Moinet's hometown.
The integrated titanium bracelet has curved links and contrasting champagne-colored DLC-coated links on the inner side, creating a smooth and comfortable appearance. The two-tone combination of the bracelet and dial looks restrained yet draws attention.
Details Creating the Model's Uniqueness
The Louis Moinet 1816 Chronograph Champagne is abundant with subtle and exquisite details that do not disrupt the design's integrity:
- Accurate jumping 30-minute counter;
- 12-hour indicator with Roman numerals instead of Arabic in the previous version;
- Historical font on the dial;
- Blue dial-mounting screws;
- Classic sub-dial layout, tested by time for over 200 years.
The rich champagne tone of the dial looks particularly striking, harmoniously blending with the bracelet's shades.
Technical Specifications of the Louis Moinet 1816 Chronograph Champagne
| Parameter | Value |
|---|---|
| Model | 1816 Chronograph Champagne |
| Dial | Champagne color, matte with engraving, black nickel hour indices, blue screws |
| Case Material | Grade 5 titanium, polished and satin-finished surfaces, pump buttons, lily-engraved crown |
| Case Dimensions | Diameter 40.6 mm, thickness 14.7 mm |
| Glass | Sapphire with double-sided anti-reflective coating |
| Case Back | Grade 5 titanium with sapphire window, secured by four screws |
| Movement | LM1816: hand-wound, frequency 28,800 vibrations/hour, power reserve 48 hours, 34 jewels |
| Water Resistance | 30 meters |
| Bracelet | Grade 5 titanium, polished and satin-finished, with champagne-colored DLC coating on the inner side |
| Functions | Time (hours, minutes, small seconds), chronograph (jumping 30-minute counter, 12-hour counter, central seconds hand) |
| Price | 28,900 Swiss francs (excluding taxes) |
If you want to learn more about the latest Louis Moinet releases, we recommend visiting the brand's official website.