Five years ago, at the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH, the predecessor to the "Watches and Wonders" exhibition), Audemars Piguet shocked the watch world.
When "AP" introduced the new Code 11.59 By Audemars Piguet collection, the response was lukewarm at best and frankly negative in most cases. The dial design, in particular, took a beating.
Honestly, I didn't quite like it either. The lacquered dial of the 41mm automatic model with three Arabic numerals seemed ill-suited for Haute Horlogerie watches with such a price tag. But now it's 2024, and AP has introduced two Code 11.59 By Audemars Piguet automatic models that show progress. I decided to showcase the 41mm and 38mm models when I got a chance to see them in metal at the AP House in Amsterdam.
The case of the Code 11.59 collection was never really the issue, was it? Its characteristic multilayered construction with an octagonal middle impressed from the start, but it was never the focus, as the dial was always the main topic of discussion. Since the debut of the collection, AP has released various watch variations, including steel models, different sizes, many colors, and some complications. Yet, none captured me as much.
Just like the 38mm automatic variant that debuted last year in pink gold with a purple or ivory dial. But this year, the 38mm automatic variant is also presented in a pink gold and "Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50" combination, AP's most iconic dial color, which is hard not to love if you adore watches. Could this downsized dark blue version be the ideal modern dress watch?
Love and Attention to the Code 11.59 By Audemars Piguet Selfwinding
I consider the self-winding model from the Code 11.59 collection to be a watch that perfectly fits the times. These watches are aimed at clients who have money to spend and are not too affected by things like inflation.
This is also the target audience that doesn't wear suits and ties to the office. COVID lockdowns accelerated the unstoppable process of "deformalization" of our society, and this is reflected in casual-chic fashion. The Code 11.59 watches also fall into the casual-chic category.
They evoke the image of "Loro Piana loafers and a Brunello Cucinelli suede jacket." For those who know and can afford such brands, their hearts don't skip a beat when they hear about the Code 11.59 Selfwinding's €30K+ price. But is the new 38mm dark blue model a better "dress watch 2.0" than its 3mm larger counterpart?
Is 38mm the Ideal Size for Dress Watch 2.0?
During the 2024 novelties presentation, I was convinced that the 38 × 9.6mm Code 11.59 self-winding in a dark blue outfit (77410OR.OO.A342CR.01) priced at €34,400 is the perfect watch for both traditionalists and devoted fashion followers. The combination of a classic case size and the "Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50" dial inscription is delightful.
Regarding the dial, the simple lacquer of the watches debuting five years ago is now a thing of the past. Now the dial boasts a dynamic pattern that can be mistaken for guilloché. Instead, the dial is stamped with a ripple pattern. The word "stamped" sounds less luxurious than "guilloché," but the stamped pattern, developed by Yann von Kanel, an independent turning specialist, looks rich and juicy without being ostentatious.
Applied pink gold indexes replace the disliked Arabic numerals, and the hands with Super-LumiNova luminous coating are also made of pink gold. I like this combination of dial, indexes, and hands. Additionally, there's a pleasant sense of depth thanks to the raised flange, which has minute markers in small print - yes, the Arabic numerals are in the right place this time.
Too Small?
On screen, the watch looks perfect. However, in metal, I had doubts. The size is pleasant, but for its design, they might be too small. On the wrist of the lady sitting across the table, they looked much better. On my wrist, they appeared quite small. I also wasn't fond of the pearlized dark blue alligator leather strap with large squares, tapering from 20 to 18mm. However, I welcome AP's choice of an elegant and simple pink gold clasp instead of a folding clasp.
Before making a final decision, I took off the watch, turned it over, and looked at the automatic caliber 5900 inside. This 26.2 × 3.9mm movement, consisting of 188 parts and running at 4 Hz, first appeared in 2022 and was made for AP by Vaucher. It is also used in some 37mm Royal Oak models and has a decent 60-hour power reserve.
Returning my gaze to the watch's dial, I concluded that the new light-blue shade of model 77410OR.OO.A344CR.01 better suits the watch's proportions. A softer dial, like last year's ivory and purple dials, better highlights size and elegance than the more austere and traditional dark blue.
41mm Code 11.59 Selfwinding Model
Can the 41 × 50 × 10.7mm version (15210OR.OO.A348KB.01) priced at €35,600 steal my heart? You might think that this new pink gold model uses the same "Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50" dial as the 38mm version. It does, but it doesn't. There is a difference. And that difference makes all the... well... difference.
Look closely, and you do see the same dark blue base and applied pink gold indexes and hands with luminous coating. But there's also something the 38mm version lacks. It's the gray inner bezel. This differently colored detail changes the watch's look. The additional visual element creates a more lively appearance. It's like pairing gray flannel trousers with a dark blue shirt - a classic combination that just works.
Business and Smart Casual
The matching rubber-coated strap, tapering from 22 to 20mm, also significantly impacts the watch's look and character. It suits the watch both in color and spirit. The textured strap looks informal and sporty yet chic; this is precisely what they mean when the invitation states "business casual."
The 41mm Code 11.59 case looks strong, refined, and confident. It is sophisticated and stylish, yet also relaxed and easy-going. The 41mm model is an excellent "dress watch 2.0" that understands the difference between "business casual" and "smart casual" and feels at home in both categories. Yes, they're larger than traditional dress watches that go well with a three-piece suit, but now you're wearing a cashmere turtleneck, and the 41mm watch fits that look perfectly.
There's also business on the back. The 41mm model houses the automatic caliber 4302, consisting of 257 parts. This 4 Hz movement measures 32 × 4.9mm, displays hours, minutes, central seconds, date, and has a 70-hour power reserve.
Thanks, Daniel Day-Lewis
Finally, let me explain why I haven't commented on the €30,000 price tag for both new Code 11.59 watch models. When I checked them out, I switched to "method-action" mode. I tried on and considered these watches as someone who reads but doesn't care about inflation, rising prices, and other unpleasant things. Thank you, Daniel Day-Lewis, for the inspiration. Now let me know what you think, not about my acting skills, but about the new 38 and 41mm Code 11.59 By Audemars Piguet Selfwinding models with "Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50" dials.
