The essential complication for any self-respecting watchmaker, the chronograph, was once again widely represented at the Watches and Wonders 2024 exhibition...
Indeed, we saw several stunning new models. What impressed us most was that many of these chronographs are equipped not only with the start-stop-reset function. Flyback, monopusher, split-seconds, high-frequency... Here are the 6 most important new chronographs presented at the Geneva exhibition this year.
A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Up/Down Blue Dial
First launched in 1999, the Datograph by A. Lange & Söhne is one of the most significant in the chronograph category. Alongside a few other models, it started the trend of using in-house high-end chronograph movements. In honor of its 25th anniversary this year, ALS is releasing a limited edition of the second-generation Datograph, the Up/Down version, in white gold with a beautiful blue dial.
Besides the new combination of materials and colors, the heart of these magnificent watches remains the same - the in-house caliber L951.6 with manual winding and flyback, long considered one of the best movements on the market - a true microcosm on the wrist...
Quick Facts: 41 mm x 13.1 mm white gold case - sapphire crystals front and back - blue dial, large date, silver sub-dials - Lange caliber L951.6, manual-winding chronograph with column wheel, flyback function, power reserve, and large date - frequency 2.5 Hz, power reserve 60 h - blue alligator leather strap with white gold clasp - ref. 405.028 - limited to 125 pieces - price on request (around €125,000)
Cartier Tortue Monopoussoir
One of the most collectible modern Cartier watches, the Tortue Monopoussoir chronograph, returns! First released in the late 1990s as part of the CPCP collection, the Tortue Monopoussoir remains renowned for its elegant historical design and thin manual-winding movement crafted by the most famous watchmakers (Halter, Journe, and Flageollet).
Even though the successor of this mechanism is still in production, Cartier decided to update the Tortue Monopoussoir model by equipping it with its own movement (developed in collaboration with an undisclosed partner). Otherwise, the watch is no less attractive: compact proportions, beautiful dials, and undeniable charm. These watches caused quite a stir during the exhibition...
Quick Facts: 34.8 mm x 43.7 mm x 10.2 mm platinum or yellow gold tortoise-shaped case - sapphire crystals front and back - silvered opaline dial (platinum) or grained gold-finish dial (gold) - caliber 1928 MC, in-house movement, column wheel chronograph with monopusher - frequency 4 Hz, power reserve 44 hours - 2 alligator leather straps with ardillon buckle included - ref. CRWHTO0008 (platinum) and CRWHTO0007 (gold) - limited to 200 pieces each version - CHF 49,100 in gold, CHF 57,000 in platinum
Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Chronograph Rattrapante
While the Toric Small Seconds model already made our list of the most attractive dress watches at the exhibition, in this chronograph selection we cannot omit the split-seconds version of these watches. Firstly, the overall design and sartorial appeal of the watch are indisputable, even in this larger and bolder 42 mm version - the color combination exudes true elegance.
Turning the watch over reveals a magnificent mechanism, the so-called Chronor caliber, almost entirely made of rose gold, finished with great care and impressive from a technical standpoint. It is not only a rattrapante chronograph but also a manual-winding movement (made in collaboration with Vaucher), operating at 5 Hz.
Quick Facts: 42.5 mm x 14.4 mm rose gold case with knurled bezel - sapphire crystals front and back - gold coffee-colored dial with hand-graining - caliber PF361 (Chronor) in-house split-seconds chronograph movement, 2 column wheels with solid rose gold plate and bridges - frequency 5 Hz, power reserve 60 h - alligator leather strap with rose gold clasp - ref. PFH951-2010001-300181 - CHF 135,000
Patek Philippe Nautilus Chronograph 5980G
Earlier this year, Patek Philippe announced the discontinuation of all previous versions of the Nautilus Chronograph 5980... But this was done merely to make room for a new version of these watches - the Nautilus Chronograph 5980G in a denim theme. Positioned alongside the more complex 5990 Dual Time Chronograph model, this classic version is back with a twist and in a new color - denim blue tone has become the theme of the year at Patek...
Housed in a classic-shaped Nautilus white gold case with fairly compact proportions, it now features a grey-blue opaline dial with a jeans-themed leather strap. Inside, everything remains unchanged - the automatic caliber CH 28-520 C/522. We'll let you decide how well this new casual approach suits these important watches, but in real life, it works better.
Quick Facts: 40.5 mm x 12.2 mm white gold case - sapphire crystals front and back - grey-blue opaline dial with horizontal embossed pattern - caliber CH 28-520 C/522, integrated automatic chronograph with flyback, column wheel, and vertical clutch - frequency 4 Hz, power reserve 45-55 h - calfskin strap with blue-grey denim pattern and white gold Nautilus folding clasp (additional composite blue-grey fabric strap included) - Reference 5980/60G - €78,300
TAG Heuer Monaco Split-Seconds
One of the most important chronographs in the history of Heuer and TAG Heuer, the Monaco model was chosen as the brand's flagship and home for an unprecedented movement, manufactured at Vaucher... For the first time in this collection, the Monaco Split-Seconds - a bold, ultra-technical approach to the brand's square case, partially made of sapphire glass.
The skeletonized dial and beveled sapphire crystal case back reveal an impressive titanium mechanism with a column wheel architecture and high-frequency 5 Hz regulation. Some of TAG's most elite watches in recent years, and the price reflects that.
Quick Facts: 41 mm x 41 mm x 15.2 mm titanium and sapphire glass case (with or without DLC coating) - sapphire crystals front and back - skeletonized sapphire dial with black or gradient blue DLC-titanium arcs - caliber TH81-00 (made in collaboration with Vaucher), automatic split-seconds chronograph with column wheels - frequency 5 Hz, power reserve 65 h - calfskin strap with embossed fabric pattern, titanium folding clasp with fine adjustment - ref. CBW2181.FC8322 (red) or CBW2182.FC8339 (blue) - €135,000
Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph
As a natural evolution of the Defy Skyline collection, Zenith has just released the highly anticipated chronograph version of its luxury sports watches with an integrated bracelet... And, as you might expect, it's equipped with the El Primero caliber (what else...)
Larger and slightly bolder than previous versions with time-only and skeletonized movements, the Defy Skyline Chronograph retains all the same design features, including the 12-sided bezel and textured star-pattern dials.
The main evolution concerns the 42 mm case and the movement inside - the modern El Primero 3600 with an extended power reserve and a central 1/10-second chronograph hand.
Quick Facts: 42 mm stainless steel case - sapphire crystals front and back - black, blue, or silver dial with embossed star pattern - caliber El Primero 3600, in-house automatic chronograph with column wheel and central 1/10-second hand - frequency 5 Hz, power reserve 60 h - stainless steel bracelet and textured rubber strap included, with easy-change system - ref. 03.9500.3600/51.I001 (blue), 03.9500.3600/01.I001 (silver), and 03.9500.3600/21.I001 (black) - €13,900