This year, Zenith has introduced two new models worth discussing for various reasons. The Defy Skyline chronograph is a logical continuation of the series.
It feels like the watch has long been part of the collection. It's simply a natural extension of the Defy Skyline. The second major novelty is the Zenith Defy Extreme Diver model. Fans of the brand have long wondered if we would see the return of Zenith diving watches. The answer came this year with a new duo. As it turned out, the Zenith Defy Extreme Diver is surprisingly less extreme than expected - in a good way! It's time to take a closer look at them.
As a Zenith enthusiast, I've always been most interested in the brand's classics and their modern interpretations. They touch my heart the most, and I think many watch fans feel the same. This year, the brand from Le Locle introduced the colorful Defy Revival A3648 model for those who love Zenith classics.
I am thrilled with this release and hope to get a chance to handle these watches soon. However, due to the bright orange elements, these watches may not appeal to everyone. I think it's a cool and fitting demonstration of the brand's style from the late '60s - early '70s. This is why Zenith stood out among many of its competitors.
The Creation Story of Zenith Defy Extreme Diver
These watches served as inspiration for creating the new Zenith Defy Extreme Diver series. The brand made a logical and sensible decision to integrate its new dive watch series into the Defy Extreme lineup. So far, we've seen several Defy Extreme chronographs. It's an impressive series of watches, but with a width of 45mm, they have substantial dimensions and capabilities.
When the first images of the new Extreme Diver model appeared, I was skeptical, as I expected it to be similar in size. But upon checking the press release, I found that the case size is a more modest 42.5mm. My slight concern then turned into growing curiosity.
Although Zenith has a history of creating dive watches, as Brandon explained well, they have never been the brand's main product. Zenith is primarily known as a brand that creates some of the best chronographs in history. Therefore, the appearance of dive watches is always a big event.
The Sub Sea diving watches, released in the late 1960s - early 1970s, hold a special place in the brand's rich portfolio. The reintroduced A3648 model is just one of them. Other examples include the bright models A3637 and A3639, including the famous "Big Lemon." My favorite model is the A3630, whose return I would also love to see.
Combining Past and Present Influences
But Zenith decided otherwise. And if you look at the new Defy Extreme Diver model next to the Revival A3648 and Defy Extreme watches, the choice becomes absolutely logical. The designers managed to combine past influences in the modern Defy Extreme canvas. Their smart approach led to the creation of contemporary dive watches with perfect visual balance. Brandon explained that the design influence of both models is easily recognizable.
The Defy Extreme Diver model shows the influence of the classic A3648 model with its octagonal shape, thin diver's bezel, and orange minute track. Additionally, the watches are related to the Defy Extreme chronographs and, in particular, the Defy Skyline series thanks to the star-patterned dial, elongated crown guards, and case/bracelet shape. However, fortunately, it does not look like a designer construct. The shapes and angles of the classic and modern blend beautifully.
Technical Specifications of Defy Extreme Diver
Let's briefly discuss the technical specifications of the two new divers. Both models have a titanium case with a diameter of 42.5mm and a thickness of 15.5mm. They also boast a dive depth of 600m, like the A3648 model in the past and the Defy Revival this year. The matte titanium case looks modern and sharp, with pleasing side profiles.
I like the technical solutions, especially from the crown side, as it looks impressively technical and mechanical. The other side is relatively simple, with only a helium release valve. But both sides make the Defy Extreme Diver look like real tool watches.
Furthermore, I was pleased to see dive watches that do not fit into the traditional round dive watch form we know too well.
Brandon has already brilliantly described everything that makes this new angular case such a fascinating design exercise. There are so many different forms and intricate details that blend well together. Looking at the watch up close, it's a wonder they don't create instant visual overload. My favorite element is the dodecagon ring because it hints at the A3648 model's design.
But it is also more pronounced than on the retro diver and, therefore, more defining of the appearance. Another standout element is the knurled diver's bezel, which is great for gripping and turning the bezel. By the way, the bezel rotation sound is delightful. It has wonderful crisp and clear clicks that speak to its high quality.
Two Dial Color Options with Skillful Star Pattern
The Defy Extreme Diver watches come with a black or blue dial with orange and white accents. I prefer the dark blue dial as it has depth and brightness that the black version lacks. Regarding the star pattern, Zenith applied the same principle as Audemars Piguet for their tapisserie dials.
AP enlarges the pattern for the Royal Oak Offshore line, which Zenith did for these divers. Of course, seeing these large four-pointed stars takes getting used to. But there is something visually clever in the larger pattern.
In places where the star pattern needs to make room for text, it breathes. So it seems like the pattern has bumps, though it doesn't. But it creates a cool effect that I like. They contrast with the huge luminous hour markers and hands.
Another nice detail is the white outlines of the markers at 6, 9, and 12 o'clock, which hint at the white outline of the date window at 3 o'clock. Just look at these large hands with big luminous surfaces. The Zenith designers did a great job without overdoing it.
Zenith El Primero 3620 SC
As Brandon explained, Zenith decided to use their El Primero 3620 caliber for the new divers. It operates at 36,000 vibrations per hour and has a 60-hour power reserve. This movement is one of the non-chronograph El Primero movements, also used in the Defy Skyline series. It is a low-maintenance version of the movement with a central seconds hand/date, beautifully finished, with the familiar star-shaped rotor as a visual centerpiece.
On the case back, you'll also see centrally located quick-release buttons for easy strap changes. Recently, we've criticized Zenith for the bracelets and clasps used in the Chronomaster Sport, but in the Defy watches, the quick-release strap system is top-notch.
It is one of the best in the industry. A sturdy construction with one simple button makes its use incredibly easy, and other brands could learn from Zenith in this regard.
Zenith Defy Extreme Diver on the Wrist
We had both the black and blue versions available on FKM rubber straps with Kevlar texture and folding clasps. While the included bracelet may be a practical choice for many, and the two-pass strap a visually striking option with additional titanium adapters, the rubber strap is likely the most comfortable option.
This strap is truly great. It's very flexible, so wearing it is a pleasure, and the watch sits perfectly on the wrist. The Kevlar texture is also quite unusual. The rugged look goes well with the overall design and adds even more character to the watch.
Thanks to this, the watch is surprisingly comfortable to wear, despite its rather bulky profile. The 42.5mm case fits well on wrists of different sizes. Several members of the WatchTested team with different wrist sizes tried the watch and agreed that it's a great size and very easy to wear thanks to the titanium construction.
Of course, with the bracelet, the watch will look bulkier, so different rules apply here. However, on the rubber strap, the size and design are visually friendly, which impressed me greatly.
Final Thoughts on the New Zenith Defy Extreme Diver
In terms of overall perception, the watch resembles a modern Zenith diver rather than a vintage-inspired one. If you're a Zenith fan, you'll recognize the visual nods to the past, but they are not fundamental to evaluating the design.
At best, they make you appreciate the design even more. I admit, when I first saw the press images, these new divers didn't impress me much. They seemed like a logical step but didn't amaze me. However, after reading about the designers' inspiration and understanding how the vintage and modern Zenith elements blend, I was intrigued.
In real life, these watches are much better than one might assume from the press release or stock images. However, this was to be expected. Above all, I love Zenith for its design philosophy. And while not every watch release appeals to me, we can always find an example of great design, meticulously thought out and brilliantly executed.
And the new Defy Extreme Divers may be the best example in the Defy line. These are impressive watches that fit perfectly into the Defy lineup. Priced at 11,800 euros, the new Zenith Defy Extreme Divers align with the prices we know from the Defy line and competitors. In this sense, these two new additions to the Zenith collection are quite logical. It's a great return for Zenith divers, who respectfully honor the past in a modern series of watches.
For more information, visit the official Zenith website. In our Telegram channel, you can share your opinion on the new Zenith Defy Extreme Divers.