Parmigiani has just released the Tondagraph GT Steel Silver Black and Tondagraph GT Rose Gold Silver Black - two new Panda dial variants from last year's Tondagraph GT sports watch collection. I've handled both the base Tonda GT model and the Tondagraph GT, the former of which gives a much clearer idea of the steel variant presented here.
Last year's debut model, the Tondagraph GT Annual Calendar Chronograph, featured a dark, almost slate-gray dial with polished steel hands and indexes, accented in orange with annual calendar features. These new versions look somewhat fresher, mainly because a dark gray dial can only be so vibrant, but the silvery-white dial looks good and contrasts well with the black sub-dials and indexes. Additionally, perhaps it's just because I haven't held the new Tondagraph GT in metal, but the circular pattern and guilloché 'clou triangulaire' on the dial seem more pronounced on this light background.
As far as I understand, only the steel Tondagraph GT models are chronographs with an annual calendar, while the rose gold variants feature an impressively finished integrated chronograph with a column wheel (based on the GPHG award-winning PF361 movement) and a large date. Admittedly, the designations could be a bit clearer, as it's currently not very intuitive to distinguish a Tondagraph GT with an annual calendar chronograph from a Tondagraph GT with an integrated chronograph.
The removal of the orange accents was an obvious choice, as they would have looked completely out of place and... unnatural. One design flaw I worry about is that the signature Delta skeletonized hands might not be as distinguishable on a light background (unless the hands are mirror-polished). I need to see it in person to confirm, but I suspect I'm right. Nevertheless, the black luminescent tips of the hands help a lot. Additionally, my main design critique is that the 'Month' text on the sub-dial at the '3 o'clock' position is still unnecessary. However, removing the 'Annual Calendar Chronograph' text from the 6 o'clock sub-dial was an excellent first step, so credit is due.
As a brand new to sports watches in general, let alone chronographs with a Panda dial, Parmigiani has done an impressive job of creating something modern while retaining Michel Parmigiani's design language.
Aside from these dial changes, the Parmigiani Tondagraph GT Annual Calendar Chronograph remains the same watch that debuted last summer in 2020.
The watch case measures 42 mm in width and 13.7 mm in thickness, with a lug-to-lug height of 46.9 mm. Parmigiani's classic teardrop lugs and pushers, along with the fluted bezel, create a beautiful sports watch that can be called eccentric without being mistaken for something else; the water resistance of 100 m is also more than adequate.
Watches with an annual calendar and chronograph are very rare (the few I've seen were from Patek Philippe, Ulysse Nardin, and Richard Mille), so the Tondagraph GT is not just riding the sports watch wave. These watches have serious horological potential (especially at this price) and are powered by the PF043 movement, which results from adding a module to the PF334 movement. The watches are decorated with Geneva stripes and a 22-karat gold rotor. Composed of 443 parts, the PF043 movement runs at a frequency of 28,800 vph and has a 45-hour power reserve. As I wrote last year when the first Tondagraph GT debuted, "in watches like the Tondagraph GT, you will not get a reliable annual calendar like in the Tonda 1950 Annual Calendar, which is significantly more expensive." Speaking of cost, these more complex annual calendars are operated using inset buttons, which reduce their water resistance. Moreover, working with inset buttons requires a tool, which is clearly not everyday-friendly.
Housed in a 42 mm wide and 14.3 mm thick case with 100 m water resistance, this rose gold model features the same monochromatic dial, except the hands and index outlines are made of matching gold.
However, the Tondagraph GT Rose Gold Silver Black truly shines thanks to its impressive movement. Turning the Tondagraph GT Rose Gold Silver Black over to the case back reveals the internal PF071 movement, COSC-certified as a chronometer. The PF071 movement, equipped with an integrated chronograph with a column wheel and a balance bridge, has a high beat frequency of 36,000 per hour and can measure intervals to 1/10th of a second. The decorative finish meets expectations: a 22-karat gold rotor, hand beveling, and finishing throughout the case make the PF071 a top-tier chronograph movement.
Both new models are offered either on a rubber strap or a steel/rose gold bracelet. While the steel model is much simpler, I still hold my opinion on straps and bracelets: "The Tondagraph GT could greatly benefit from a few small changes.
As I mentioned regarding the Tonda GT, I believe brands should follow the example of companies like Vacheron Constantin, which release the Overseas with a bracelet and two straps as standard, rather than forcing the buyer to choose. I think it would make the overall product much more appealing to this undoubtedly niche buyer."
Both new Tondagraph GT watch models push this still-new collection in the right direction, and I largely approve of the design choices. It's fascinating to watch Parmigiani navigate the sports watch space, and I think I'm not the only one closely watching where this niche brand goes next.
The price of the Parmigiani Tondagraph GT Steel Silver Black is $20,400 on a rubber strap and $21,500 on the matching steel bracelet. I prefer the latter option, and the small price difference only confirms my opinion that there should be only one steel option with both bracelet/straps included. The price of the Tondagraph GT Rose Gold Silver Black is $45,300 on a strap and $72,500 on a rose gold bracelet.
Unlike previous models, which were released in limited editions, these are the first Tondagraph GT watches to be produced regularly. Details can be found on parmigianiamericas.com.