Since its debut in 1997, the Patek Philippe Aquanaut series has held a unique place in the brand's lineup. Unlike the fanfare surrounding the Nautilus or traditional associations with models like the Calatrava, the Aquanaut has evolved into a sportier, youth-oriented branch of the brand. The introduction of the Aquanaut Chronograph in 2018 solidified this image, and in the summer of 2021, Patek Philippe aims to further enhance this stylish, sporty reputation by introducing a pair of new, sleek models in white gold.
The new Patek Philippe Aquanaut Chronograph models in white gold (reference 5968G-001 with a blue dial and 5968G-010 with a khaki-green dial) offer a cleaner, more luxurious approach to the Aquanaut Chronograph series, blending a new lustrous case material with two deep and nuanced dial colors.
As with the previous stainless steel model, the cases of these new Patek Philippe Aquanaut Chronograph models in 18-karat white gold measure 42.2 mm. The case design is pure Aquanaut classic, simplifying and lightening the look of the classic Nautilus series. Instead of the embossed case sides of the Nautilus at the “3 o'clock” and “9 o'clock” positions, the facets framing the rounded octagonal bezel are smooth and fluid, with low, wide guards protecting the crown at the “3 o'clock” position.
Similarly, the integrated Nautlius bracelet has been reimagined as tapering athletic lugs with angular chamfered tips that draw significant attention in the initial images. The case thickness is 11.9 mm for the automatic chronograph, giving it a more refined appearance than many of its competitors. This visual elegance is further enhanced by the brand's signature finishing, which sharply transitions from sporty linear brushing to mirror polishing, accentuating the brightness of the white gold case material.
Like the stainless steel Aquanaut Chronograph model, the new white gold models feature a sapphire crystal case back. The water resistance of the white gold Aquanaut Chronograph is a sufficiently sporty 120 meters.
The dials of the new Patek Philippe Aquanaut Chronograph models in white gold are the most noticeable change from the original stainless steel version. They have abandoned the bright orange accents in favor of simple white print over the new colored dials. Both variants feature the signature Aquanaut guilloché pattern of curved spheres, along with applied Arabic numerals, rectangular indices, and broad stick hands in 18-karat white gold. As with the 2018 stainless steel model, the 60-minute chronograph subdial at 6 o'clock playfully echoes the iconic bezel shape, but the use of white text on the dial allows focus on the subdial's shape rather than an attention-grabbing color.
However, within these familiar frameworks, the two new dial colors give the Aquanaut Chronograph a completely different flavor. The blue dial version is certainly more subtle and sophisticated than other models, with a delicate matte fumé pattern that transitions from a rich dark blue at the center to almost black at the dial edges. Conversely, the olive dial Aquanaut Chronograph fits harmoniously into the decade-long legacy of green three-hand Aquanauts, while appearing very modern amidst the current green dial craze. This military hue lends the Aquanaut a more relaxed, rugged look than its counterparts. Both the green and blue dial Aquanaut Chronograph models still use a white date wheel, as in previous models, which disrupts the visual flow of the balanced dial design.
Patek Philippe equips both new Aquanaut Chronograph variants with the in-house automatic movement CH 28-520 C, featuring vertical clutch and flyback function. In keeping with the brand's standards, the CH 28-520 C boasts intricate finishing, with polished sinks and chamfers adding brilliance to the combination of pearlescent and circular Geneva patterns on the plates and bridges.
Patek Philippe complements this movement with a signed 21-karat yellow gold rotor, also decorated with circular Geneva patterns. Patek Philippe claims the power reserve of these movements ranges from 45 to 55 hours at a frequency of 28,800 beats per hour. Both new Patek Philippe Aquanaut Chronograph models in white gold come with the signature patterned composite Aquanaut strap, matching the texture and color of their respective dials.
With these two new white gold Aquanaut Chronograph models, Patek Philippe adeptly expands its lineup of sporty chronographs, adding new beautiful dials and a stealth level of opulence.
Both Patek Philippe Aquanaut Chronograph variants in white gold are available from authorized dealers at a price of $69,194.