While pilot-style watches have found a comfortable niche in the modern Patek Philippe catalog, the debut of the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time 5524 in 2015 sparked not just curiosity but a real sensation.
Many were shocked, feeling that the watch deviated from the typical Patek Philippe aesthetic. The design, noticeably different from the timeless offerings of the Calatrava series, challenged established expectations. The debates continued despite explanations that the inspiration came from Patek Philippe's history of producing watches with hour-angle or siderometer for the military in the 1930s.
However, reference 5524 quickly brought Patek Philippe resounding success. In 2018, a mid-size (37.5 mm) model Calatrava Pilot Travel Time 7234R was introduced, followed by a white gold version in 2020. It's important to note that in 2019, Patek unveiled the Alarm Travel Time 5520P. Despite the official abandonment of the "Pilot" name, the essence of the series remained. These watches retained the distinctive design and functionality of model 5524, while adding a new complication: a 24-hour alarm mechanism with digital time display, accompanied by a hefty price tag significantly exceeding 200,000 euros. Last year, Patek also released a duo of Pilot Travel Time chronographs under reference 5924G.
Warmer and Softer Image of Rose Gold
Fast forward to today, and Patek introduces the latest version of model 5520, crafted in a rose gold case with a warm gray dial. Compared to the previous platinum case with a black dial, this model offers a softer, less "aggressive" aesthetic, and the 5520RG has been warmly welcomed by the watch community.
The case of the 5520RG is almost entirely made of rose gold. Despite housing numerous functions of the self-winding mechanism, it maintains a diameter of 42.2 mm and a relatively thin profile of 11.6 mm. The water resistance of 30 m is not record-breaking but distinguishes the 5520 series as the only Patek Philippe watches with any water resistance.
Polarizing Style of Four Crowns
The four prominent and debated pushers (giving the watch a very characteristic and polarizing look) are equipped with white gold tubes, earning this model the "two-tone" designation from the brand. The watch we tested has a sapphire crystal case back, and PP also offers a pure gold option - both interchangeable and included in the package.
In terms of wearability, the Alarm Travel Time is a pleasant wrist accessory. The slim profile of the watch contributes to comfortable wear. The crown at the "4 o'clock" position and the pushers at "2", "8", and "10 o'clock" positions, while visually prominent, do not create excessive discomfort or pressure on the wrist. The 5520RG model has a distinctly sporty-chic look; the elegance is largely explained by the choice of case material and dial design.
Reimagined Two-Tone Dial
The gray dial of the 5520RG model is adorned with mesmerizing sunburst finishing, accentuated by a contrasting charcoal gray minute track and a corresponding date ring on the sub-dial located at the "6 o'clock" position. The dark hue extends to the outlines of large applique luminous Arabic numerals and main hour hands. The sword-shaped local hour and minute hands are charcoal with luminous coating, while the home hour hand is charcoal and skeletonized, without luminescence. The central seconds hand and the date indicator at the "6 o'clock" position are painted white.
Compared to the original platinum version, the new rose gold 5520RG model also received slight updates on the dial. Firstly, the minute track has been enlarged and now includes decimal numbers. As a result, applique Arabic numerals have been repositioned, and due to closer proximity to the bell-shaped alarm indicator and the date sub-dial, some of them have been truncated... whether you like it or not.
The alarm window positioned under the "12 o'clock" index is framed by a rectangular rose gold plating, divided into two sections. The upper part displays double-digit hours (from 01 to 12), and the lower part - minutes in 15-minute intervals (00-15-30-45). A small bell-shaped aperture at the top acts as an alarm on/off indicator, while a round indicator at the bottom shows whether it is day or night. Additionally, two round apertures for day/night indication clearly mark local and home time.
Managing the 5520RG Watch
Managing this Grand Complication watch (as PP classifies this watch, although strictly speaking, it does not fall into the Grande Complication category) is logical, intuitive, and almost foolproof; understanding its operation is quite simple. Once you identify which hand corresponds to local or home time, the markings on the pushers provide clear guidance for proper management. Furthermore, safety locks prevent accidental adjustments, adding an extra level of confidence.
The pusher at the "2 o'clock" position depicting a bell activates or deactivates the alarm. The three-position crown located at the "4 o'clock" position, adorned with the PP emblem, possesses universal functionality. Pushing it in and turning clockwise winds the alarm mechanism; turning counterclockwise winds the movement, with just ten turns providing sufficient power.
By pulling the crown to the first position, you can set the alarm time in both directions in 15-minute increments. Pulling the crown to the second position allows you to set the time, supplemented by the "stop seconds" function. On the left side of the case are pushers that allow you to set local time in one-hour increments, forward (marked with a plus sign) or backward (marked with a minus sign). This feature will be invaluable when crossing time zones, providing smooth adjustment to the desired hour. Day/night indicators provide additional visibility to avoid confusion when setting.
Finally, synchronized with the local hand, the date can be adjusted using a special corrector discreetly located on the case strap near the lower left lug.
When the time comes to sound the alarm, the mechanism with 30-second precision comes into motion. A classic gong is struck by a hammer for about 35 seconds, creating a musical chime. If the owner wishes to silence the sound prematurely, simply press the button at the "2 o'clock" position. If you prefer to leave the alarm alone, it will automatically switch to off mode. This is indicated by the darkening bell-shaped indicator, signaling that the alarm has completed its process.
In-House Mechanics
The new Patek Philippe 5520RG model boasts the same caliber AL 30-660 S C FUS as its predecessor. Since we have detailed it during the presentation of the 5520P, we will forgo praise now. However, it is worth noting that this mechanism maintains the highest standards of finishing and accuracy. It operates with remarkable precision, ranging from -3 to +2 seconds per day, and boasts a power reserve of 42 to 52 hours.
Availability and Price
A calfskin leather strap with vintage finish complements the 5520RG model, and a clevis prong buckle in rose gold serves for closure. The price is 257,100 euros, which is quite fitting, considering the "Grand Complication" status of the Alarm Travel Time 5520 series. The 5520 watches quickly transformed from controversial and polarizing to a hot collectible item, and it won't be long before they attain cult status, as they are recognizable, quintessential, and serve as an inspiration for others. If they dare and can.