Have you heard of people who wear watches without winding them or setting them correctly? I have.
And to some extent, I understand why they might not bother ensuring their mechanical watches display the correct time more than twice a day. The correct time is everywhere - on phones, in cars, on laptops, and so on. These days, there is no practical need for a watch to keep track of time. Yet, watches can still be great accessories, an expression of style and personal taste. So were the Cartier Santos-Dumont Rewind watches created for those who don't care about the correct time on their wrist?
I wouldn't claim that all buyers fit this description, but some might. The Cartier Santos-Dumont Rewind (WGSA0102) is a platinum watch priced at $38,400, released in a limited edition of 200 pieces. This creation by Cartier, debuted at this year's Watches and Wonders exhibition, can be viewed in two ways - as a collectible, rare watch with an interesting mechanism inside (through the eyes of a watch enthusiast) or as a decorative item (through the eyes of a wealthy style and design aficionado).
Cartier Santos-Dumont Rewind through the Eyes of a Watch Enthusiast
At first glance, there's nothing "wrong" with the Cartier Santos-Dumont Rewind. On the contrary, the matte and polished case has delightful dimensions: 31.4 mm in width, 43.5 mm in length, and 7.3 mm in thickness. It is water-resistant up to 3 ATM, and the red ruby cabochon in the crown signifies that it is platinum. The watch comes with a prominent burgundy-brown alligator leather strap with a platinum folding clasp. Then there's the dial. The lacquer shade on it changes significantly depending on how the light hits it. It transitions from orange to brown-red, and sometimes even black tones appear. On the dial, you'll find a railway minute track and typical Cartier Roman numerals. However, on this watch, the numerals are applied and read counterclockwise. Additionally, the pomme hands, which have received a rhodium finish and a refreshed modern style, also rotate counterclockwise.
If the watch runs counterclockwise, then the movement cannot be normal. Yes, this movement started as a standard caliber 430 MC based on the Piaget 430, but after thorough reworking, the Cartier caliber 230 MC was created. When fully wound, it operates in reverse for 38 hours. However, you won't be able to see it at work, as the watch has a fully platinum case back. And if you're wondering whether this model is the first in Cartier's history to run in reverse, it's not. There is a one-of-a-kind platinum Cartier Tonneau model that runs backward. It was made for Hiroshi Sugimoto, an artist working in photography, sculpture, installation, and architecture, and is a close friend of the House.
Cartier Counterclockwise on the Wrist
As I mentioned, at first glance, there's nothing "wrong" with the Cartier Santos-Dumont Rewind. Even when wearing them on your wrist, you don't immediately feel like you're wearing a strange creation. First of all, it's the rich and juicy color, and the platinum case creates a sense of luxurious weight. And since the watch doesn't show seconds, you don't immediately notice that it runs in reverse. The oddity of the watch becomes apparent only upon closer inspection of the Roman numerals. And then what? Well, then you don't know what time it is. I compare it to reading time on a watch with a 24-hour display - for example, on the Breitling Navitimer Cosmonaute. But I imagine that reading time in reverse is more challenging than figuring out a 24-hour dial.
It will take time to get used to it. Looking at the dial using the selfie camera mode on your phone is a very impractical solution. You just have to get used to looking at the time in reverse. This might work if it's your only watch, but platinum Cartier is probably not for everyone. Considering this, I don't think many of the 200 potential owners of these watches will be able to instantly tell the time. If you ever see such a watch in nature, approach the person wearing it and politely ask the time. I desperately want to know what happens next.
Cartier Santos-Dumont Rewind through the Eyes of a Style Aficionado
Reflecting on the practicality of the Cartier Santos-Dumont Rewind brings me to people who wear watches without setting them. Among them might be quite a few of the 200 buyers of the new Rewind model. Some of them, out of disappointment, might not even wind or set the watch anymore, falling into the category of people who wear their watches in a decorative style (if they ever take these disappointing watches out of the box at all). The color scheme and design of the Santos-Dumont Rewind are powerful yet delicate. The deep brown-red shade of the dial undoubtedly holds jewel-like qualities. It also speaks to the person who wears these watches - after all, they are platinum Cartier.
Nevertheless, using a reverse-running watch solely as a static decoration seems excessive. This suggests that we live in a world where the standard practice of winding and setting watches to the correct time is under pressure from modern technology and the convenience associated with the abundance of precise digital devices. For owners of decorative watches, a watch as a companion for timekeeping has become a relic of the past. Or maybe they want to be like pop art artist Andy Warhol, who was known to wear a Cartier Tank watch that he never wound.
Do as I Do
What is certain is that the time I spent with the Cartier Santos-Dumont Rewind was too short to get used to them as a watch. I liked them as an object, but I couldn't judge them as a watch because I couldn't tell the time. And I can't bring myself to evaluate them as a piece of jewelry, because despite everything, they are primarily a watch. If only I were a bit more like Andy Warhol...
What do you think of these "backward-running" Santos-Dumont? How would you feel if you received one of the 200 pieces? Tell us about it in the Telegram channel. Moreover, the watches are not featured on the brand's website, so visit the nearest Cartier boutique if you wish to purchase them.