Rolex has a long history of creating some of the most outstanding dials in the watch industry.
Its impressive dials made of natural stone, the famous Stella dials, and the magnificent wooden dials are just a few legendary examples. While these exotic models have long been part of the brand's collection, in recent years, Rolex has also added a series of vibrant colored dials. In 2023, the brand surprised many fans with the playful Oyster Perpetual “Celebration” and Day-Date “Jigsaw Puzzle” models. This year, The Crown introduced the Oyster Perpetual “Jubilee” timed to the 100th anniversary of the Oyster case. It’s time to review these colorful dials and share thoughts on their widely discussed designs.
Meeting Rolex Novelties at Watches and Wonders 2026
This annual visit always provides an opportunity to spend more time studying The Crown's novelties. It is often a great chance to see how first impressions hold up over time. During Watches and Wonders, I didn’t have time to examine the new Oyster Perpetual models released for the 100th anniversary of the case in detail. While the two-tone or yellow Rolesor model represents an interesting variation of the classic Oyster Perpetual, the model with a bright dial with the Jubilee motif pushes the festive mood to the limit. However, as is often the case, simple renders do not always convey the full depth of execution and the overall impression of the watch. The bright dial brought a smile as soon as I tried on the 36mm version on my wrist.
Rolex Oyster Perpetual “Celebration”
This is not the first time digital images have failed to reflect the real perception of a watch. This is especially true for vibrant models - renders rarely convey the precision of execution and level of detail that are so important for understanding the craftsmanship of the Geneva brand. What might seem tasteless at first glance often turns out to be much more refined and impressive upon direct acquaintance with the watch. For Rolex, this is especially true.
An excellent example is the Oyster Perpetual “Celebration” 2023. At first glance at the dial, I couldn’t make up my mind. Of course, the current Oyster Perpetual collection introduced in 2020 seemed like a suitable foundation for such a design. Since then, Rolex has introduced many colored dials - from bright, saturated shades to delicate pastel tones. The emphasis on colors became the key to the success of the Oyster Perpetual. However, creating a new model with a dial in “Tiffany Blue” and colored bubbles referring to the five original lacquered colors of 2020 initially seemed like a bold decision.
The “Celebration” Dial - Not Such a Bold Idea
But as soon as I fastened the clasp of the 41mm Oyster Perpetual “Celebration” model, a smile appeared on my face. This is precisely the reaction these watches are supposed to evoke. The renders seemed too bright to many readers, indicating the serious attitude of enthusiasts to novelties. Although I had doubts about the execution, I really liked the concept of celebrating the first lacquered Oyster Perpetual dials.
This was a new and playful approach for Rolex, but it is important to consider that the brand has long been known for its extravagant dials. In this light, “Celebration” looked fresh but not strange. And I saw no reason for loud criticism, especially since there was always the option of a classic black or silver sunray dial for those who prefer a more serious style.
An Abstract Concept That I Enjoy
When I tried on the watch, I liked the dial much more than I expected. It reminded me of the works of the famous Japanese artist Yayoi Kusama, who often used bright colored polka dots. This gave an abstract perception that I still retain. Therefore, I do not consider this dial as “dotted” with balls - it gives it an unnecessary childish touch that it does not deserve. In the form of a light blue dial with colored bubbles, it reminds of the original OP 2020 dials and contains just the right dose of fun and playfulness inherent in Rolex.
As for the target audience of “Celebration,” since many have discussed whether these watches are intended for a young online audience, I have seen them on the wrists of men and women of all ages and cultures. Three years after its debut, it can be confidently said that Rolex has created a sought-after series of Oyster Perpetual “Celebration” models in sizes 31, 36, and 41mm. A glance at Chrono24 confirms this: prices for the 31mm model start just above €10,000, 36mm from €15,000, and 41mm from about €18,000. This proves that many appreciate such fun from Rolex.
Rolex Day-Date “Jigsaw Puzzle”
But Rolex didn’t stop there. In the same year that the Oyster Perpetual “Celebration” was introduced, the brand released the widely discussed Day-Date “Jigsaw Puzzle”, or “Emoji” as it is sometimes called. This model raised the level of extravagance and playfulness to a new height. In one of the episodes of Sunday Morning Showdown, where “Celebration” was compared with “Jigsaw Puzzle”, I asked the question: what did Rolex want to show with these watches? Is it just an expensive fun display? A bid to attract a young audience? An April Fool's joke? A connection to World Autism Awareness Day?
As is usually the case with Rolex, there was no official information on the reasons for creating the model. However, the brand detailed the uniqueness of the dial. As I explained in the same article, the Day-Date was the right platform for this experiment. In the past, we have seen many special dials for the flagship model, including lacquered Stella, as well as stone, wood, meteorite, and other materials. It makes sense that this unusual champlevé enamel dial appeared in the Day-Date 36.
A Dial That Needs to Be Seen in Person
The watch is made in yellow gold, Everose, and white gold. The white and yellow versions have a turquoise base dial with puzzle pieces in turquoise, red, fuchsia, orange, green, and yellow colors. The Everose gold version is made on an orange background with the same color pattern. According to Rolex, each puzzle piece symbolizes an important life moment. Despite resulting in a bright, extravagant dial that can be loved or hated, only upon personal acquaintance do you understand how special it is.
Champlevé enamel is one of the most complex enameling techniques, and execution with such a pattern and many colors is truly impressive. Examining it up close is a special pleasure. I was fascinated by the brightness of the colors and the detailing. The edges of the puzzle pieces are adorned with intricate gold inlay, adding depth and visual sparkle to the dial. Additionally, the standard gold baton hour markers are replaced with 10 baguette-cut sapphires in six colors, each contrasting with the puzzle piece beneath it, ensuring excellent time readability.
A Diamond Puzzle - True Fun
But the concept doesn’t end there. As many know, the standard date and day discs are not used here. Instead, the aperture at 12 o'clock displays the words “Happy”, “Eternity”, “Gratitude”, “Peace”, “Faith”, “Love”, and “Hope”. The window at 3 o'clock daily shows one of 31 exclusive emojis instead of the date. At first, this may be confusing, but when you understand that it is a memory puzzle, and you need to remember the word and emoji combination to determine the date, it all falls into place. Moreover, it becomes an engaging exercise to memorize all the combinations.
If you think the Day-Date “Jigsaw Puzzle” immediately became a hit, you are mistaken. If the reactions to the Oyster Perpetual “Celebration” were loud, the noise raised after the appearance of the “Jigsaw Puzzle” was deafening. Opinions ranged from “orientation towards a disgusting celebrity crowd” to “the next watches for Rolex speculators”. Some even called them “the worst Rolex watches in history”.
Three years later, the Day-Date “Jigsaw Puzzle/Emoji” version has become one of the most sought-after models, with prices ranging from €200,000 to nearly €500,000. Although these prices seem absurd and are not a confirmation of the value of these watches, they show that people love them. I myself became one of those people after having the pleasure of wearing them. The impression from acquainting with these dials is truly special.
Rolex Oyster Perpetual “Jubilee”
A similar feeling occurred several weeks ago when I tried on the new Oyster Perpetual model for the 100th anniversary of the case with the Jubilee dial. Although it is not as impressive as the “Jigsaw Puzzle,” it is another confirmation that creating vibrant and special dials is one of Rolex's strengths. Unlike the “Celebration” and “Jigsaw Puzzle,” this dial has its own history. As many know, the design is inspired by the classic Jubilee dials first introduced by Rolex in 1985 in honor of the 40th anniversary of the Datejust and the 80th anniversary of the brand itself.
These special dials are adorned with a repeating “ROLEX ROLEX ROLEX” pattern across the surface. For some, they may seem excessive, but it is important to view them in the context of the 1980s - an era of luxury, decadence, and overt displays of wealth. And what could be better for this than a multitude of logos? These dials left no doubt that their owners “made it” with their luxury watches.
Classic Jubilee Dials - A Loud Statement of Luxury
Initially, such dials were used only in Datejust and Lady-Datejust, but later they could be found in Datejust II, Day-Date, and some Cellini models. The dials were produced in a wide range of colors, with baton, Roman, and Arabic numerals, as well as with diamond indices. Production of the Jubilee dials continued until 2020/2021, when the brand introduced a new series of motifs, including the popular palm pattern dial and a special fluted dial mimicking the design of the famous Datejust bezel.
Few expected that Rolex would decide to bring back the Jubilee dial so soon. For the 100th anniversary of the Oyster case, the brand decided to combine the classic Jubilee motif with the vibrant colors we have already seen on the “Celebration” and “Jigsaw/Emoji” dials. The result initially seems wild and loud.
Recognizing the History - Half the Magic
But those who recognized the pattern immediately recalled the famous 1985 dials. For me, trying on the 36mm Oyster Perpetual with the Jubilee dial was something more. Like the “Celebration,” this dial refers to something outside the watch industry - classic typographic posters of exhibitions and jazz concerts of the 1950s-60s. This is an additional cultural layer that enhances personal appreciation.
It should be noted that the color processing makes the dials truly distinct. Classic Jubilees are built on variations of textures and patterns. Although they were not modest, their design was less straightforward. Especially the light shades are less provocative than the gold or dark blue versions. The modern Jubilee dial is a bright and cheerful statement, perfectly fitting for the Oyster Perpetual.
Final Conclusions on Rolex's Colorful Dials
Overall, I like how Rolex has managed to create playful dials in their signature style. Additionally, the two Oyster Perpetual dials are connected with stories from the brand’s collection. Altogether, it is a great way to show the fun side of the company - one that some do not appreciate. Often, this is expressed in a simple dislike for colors and design. However, sometimes watch enthusiasts ask whether luxury brands should make “fun” watches. And if so, should they do it this way?
In my opinion, this is exactly how such models should be approached. Besides brightness and richness, these dials tell a story. They are also much more impressive in person than one might expect from photographs. Honestly, I found it difficult to take off the Oyster Perpetual version with the Jubilee dial from my wrist. For me, these dials go beyond the ordinary - they evoke associations with art that I love, which makes the connection with them even stronger.
How Should a Fun Rolex Look?
As for the Day-Date “Jigsaw Puzzle,” it is much more than just a fun variation of the usual Day-Date in the form of a puzzle with words and emojis. The level of horological craftsmanship invested in creating these dials is deeply respected and admired. Although the execution may not suit everyone, and that’s okay. This applies to all three dials. If you don’t love Rolex, you probably won’t like these models. If you are a fan of the brand but don’t like its bright and fun dials, you can always opt for more “serious” watches. And if you appreciate the brand and these colorful dials, you will value them for what they are. I am one of those people.