When Raymond Weil introduced the Millesime collection in 2023, it became a hit.
These simple and stylish watches with a “sector dial” proved to be comfortable to wear and very versatile. Recently, I reviewed the Raymond Weil Millesime Automatic Small Seconds 39.5mm model, and in 2024, Raymond Weil expanded the Millesime collection by adding new complications, colors, and reduced 35mm models. Among these new watches is the Millesime Automatic Moon Phase 39.5mm model, which is available in Midnight Blue and Silver colors.
Note that the prices listed below reflect the cost of the watches on a leather strap. However, there is an accompanying stainless steel bracelet that fits all 39.5mm Millesime cases. The Millesime Automatic Moon Phase 39.5mm watch in polished steel with a silver dial, which we checked during our meeting with Raymond Weil at the Watches & Wonders Geneva 2024 exhibition, was equipped with a steel bracelet, and it is an attractive pair. I am not sure if these watches will officially come with the bracelet, or if it will need to be purchased as an option for the watch.
Why is the moon phase indicator a way to expand the Millesime watch family? The brand's strategy is admittedly old-school. The idea is that when a brand's watch collection becomes popular, you can leverage that popularity by creating more versions. Recently, “more versions” have mainly meant more colors, sizes, and materials for popular watches. In the past, this also meant adding new functions and complications to popular models. This “add more complications” strategy, which was probably most popular in the 1990s, is still important for some companies who want to enhance the success of various product families.
In reality, adding complications is somewhat arbitrary and based on what stylistically looks right. Raymond Weil took the basic appearance of the Millesime and simply experimented by creating various versions. At this point, we have Millesime with central and auxiliary seconds hands, a chronograph, and a moon phase. Perhaps with a GMT complication, the watch didn't look as good? Moon phase indicators are emotional and historical. We rarely use them, but they give the watch a sense of timelessness and style. A great example of understanding the value of the moon phase is to note how Raymond Weil wants to display the moon - with a small, cute sub-dial. These watches simply wouldn't work as well if the moon indicator was empty and boring. The combination of practicality, history, and personality makes these watches as fun as they are, and just adding this little graphic on the dial changes the world.
The Millesime Automatic Moon Phase watches with diameters of 39.5mm and 35mm are equipped with the same movement - the automatic Swiss caliber Raymond Weil RW4280, based on Sellita. They use a small module for the moon phase complication and operate at a frequency of 4 Hz with a 38-hour power reserve. The automatic movement can be seen through the window on the back of the case. The case thickness is 10mm, and the water resistance is up to 50 meters. Above the dial is a sapphire crystal with AR coating.
The midnight blue version of the Millesime Automatic Moon Phase watch is slightly more expensive due to the rose gold PVD coating on the case. However, the price of this model on a strap may be approximately the same as the Silver model on a steel bracelet. The stylish and appropriately personalized version of the Millesime Automatic 39.5mm with moon phases is a wonderful addition to the product family. The combination of grace, elegance, style, and price made it one of WatchTested's favorite novelties at the Watches & Wonders Geneva 2024 exhibition. According to Raymond Weil representatives, the availability of these watches will begin around October 2024.
The price of the Raymond Weil Millesime Moon Phase reference 2945-PC5-50001 Midnight Blue on a strap is $2,325 USD, while the Reference 2945-STC-65001 Silver on a bracelet is $2,225 USD. More details on the Raymond Weil website.