The Daytona watches with precious stones have been popular among certain collector circles since Rolex began producing them.
However, discussions about them have become more popular over the last decade, as models like the Rainbow, Eye of the Tiger, Platona, adorned with diamonds, and many non-catalog models have turned into favorites among the “unobtainable” Rolex references. At the Watches and Wonders 2024 exhibition, Rolex doubled down on this part of its collection by releasing a series of gem-set Daytona watches. We got our hands on two of them: the Rolex Cosmograph Daytona ref. 126579RBR and Rolex Cosmograph Daytona ref. 126589RBR, both whimsical distant relatives of the Daytona Panda, in white gold cases with mother-of-pearl dials and diamond-set bezels.
Those who have used Daytona chronographs know that they tend to be more compact than their 40mm size suggests. This makes them pleasant on the wrist. As always, they are thin (about 11.90mm thick) and restrained in proportions, and it’s easy to see why the Daytona is often mentioned as one of the most comfortable luxury chronographs on the market. In 2023, Rolex released an entirely new generation of the Daytona.
When David Bredan delved into the differences between the old and new Daytonas, he found that the new models are actually 1mm wider, measuring 39.88mm. The extravagant bezel, adorned with 36 round-cut diamonds, gives the watch even more presence - like wearing white clothing creates the illusion of a larger figure. And I suppose if you opt for the diamond variant of the Daytona, the goal is to be bigger and brighter.
In addition to diamonds replacing the signature tachymeter bezel, the mother-of-pearl dials are another striking feature of the new Daytona models. The Daytona ref. 126589RBR features a white dial with black MOP counters - a precious approach to the fan-favorite “panda” color scheme. Conversely, the Daytona ref. 126579RBR is an “inverse panda,” with a black mother-of-pearl dial and white MOP sub-dials.
The main feature of mother-of-pearl is that it can take on a completely new color depending on how the light hits it, which is especially relevant for dark variants. As seen in the photos, the black MOP can range from light pink/purple to shimmering grayish-black hues. In metal, the black dials and/or MOP counters do not appear nearly as chocolate-brown as depicted in Rolex’s press photos.
According to Rolex, “the discs of material used for the dial and counters are arranged to optimize the color intensity of each type of mother-of-pearl and further enhance the contrast between them.” The company claims that an entirely new production process was created to achieve this goal. I can confirm that the color of the dials is indeed intense, and the legibility of the white counters on the dark background is better than in the opposite color variant. Rolex also decided to add eight diamond hour markers, leaving room for three rectangles with Chromalight luminescent coating at 3, 6, and 9 o'clock, and, naturally, the brand’s emblematic crown at 12 o'clock.
Besides the dials, another distinction of this pair of gem-set Daytonas is the bracelet. The model 126589RBR with the white MOP dial is equipped with an Oysterflex bracelet, while the model 126579RBR with the black MOP dial features an Oyster bracelet made of white gold; both models are equipped with a folding Oysterlock safety clasp in white gold. The Oysterflex bracelet makes the watch more sporty, but not by much. It is still a diamond-studded Daytona, and no strap, even a black rubber one, can tame the luxury displayed for all to see.
When I first saw these new models, they seemed familiar to me. Like, hadn’t Rolex done this before? I was half-right. We have seen similar dials (for example, the model 116509 black MOP), comparable bezels with round diamonds (for example, model 116599RBR), and, of course, a pair of white gold cases and Oysterflex bracelets (for example, models 116519 and 126519) has become a staple in the lineup.
Rolex took some of these ingredients, threw them in a blender, added the new caliber 4131, debuted last year along with updated case proportions, and introduced new Daytona models. The caliber 4131 offers an accuracy of -2/+2 seconds per day (after casing), a power reserve of 72 hours, is equipped with a paramagnetic blue Parachrom hairspring, and high-performance Paraflex shock absorbers. The bridges, decorated with Rolex’s signature Côtes de Genève patterns, and the cut-out rotor are hidden from view, protected by massive white gold case backs.
Will these variants be more appealing to a female audience? Possibly. Many of the gem-set or gold Daytonas I see on the street are worn by women. However, the fact that watches with diamonds are an integral part of many men’s collections cannot be overlooked. Perhaps mother-of-pearl dials are now harder to consider as a top choice for men, but crazier things happen in the watch world.
If any company can influence watch tastes and trends, I wouldn’t bet against Rolex. Besides, I think my colleagues Ed, Jake, and David wear these diamond and mother-of-pearl Daytona watches excellently! Confidence and occasion are key. On the racetrack, among die-hard racers? Not really. A night out in Vegas or Miami? Absolutely.
If I had a choice between any Daytonas, these wouldn’t be at the top of my list (or honestly, on my list). However, between these two options, I would choose the Oyster bracelet with the black MOP dial. Not only do I find the white gold bracelet more attractive (I’m generally not the biggest fan of Oysterflex), but I also believe the Oyster bracelet aligns more with how a Daytona should look and feel. Moreover, despite the undeniable opulence, the dark “inverse precious panda” dial seems slightly more understated to me than the light one.
The Rolex Daytona ref. 126589RBR retails for USD 61,400, while the Rolex Daytona ref. 126579RBR retails for USD 70,100. For more information, please visit the Rolex website.