While Seiko is a massive and influential part of the modern dive watch market, the Japanese giant's offerings often march to a noticeably different tune than its Swiss competitors. Even in the narrower field of vintage diver reissues, Seiko's methods for achieving a factory-aged look often differ from other manufacturers, relying less on faux patina luminous coatings or grainy-textured dials, and more on clever color use and dynamic sunburst finishes.
However, in its latest pair of retro-styled diver models, the brand takes a more European approach to aging without sacrificing its unique Japanese flair. In these models, Seiko adds its own twists to the dial finish and introduces the brand's first-ever NATO straps designed for dive watches with centuries-old traditional weaving. The new Seiko Prospex SPB237 and Seiko Prospex SPB239 offer some of the brand's most compelling diver options in recent times, arriving just in time for an anticipated busy summer travel season.
The first of this pair is the Seiko Prospex SPB237, a continuation of the Seiko 6105 “Captain Willard” series, inspired by the 1970 model that began with the 2020 models SPB151 and SPB153. Like those two models, the SPB237's stainless steel case measures 42.7mm, significantly smaller than the original 70s version, with a relatively compact lug-to-lug size of 46mm. The rounded, pebble-like cushion case shape remains a distinctive visual hallmark of this line, providing a smooth canvas for Seiko's combination of radial brushing and curved, polished case sides. As with most other top-tier Prospex models, the SPB237 features a sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating and boasts a robust 200-meter water resistance. However, the SPB237 distinguishes itself from previous models with its bezel insert. This grainy, textured charcoal gray insert seamlessly incorporates the patina theme into the design, while the muted gray dive scale reduces overall contrast, creating a unique faded bezel effect.
The dial of the Seiko Prospex SPB237 is where this new model truly stands apart from others. Those familiar with previous “Captain Willard” reissues will recognize Seiko's modern reinterpretation of the diver 6105's square indices, distinctive stoplight seconds hand, and faceted baton, but the brand reimagines these familiar elements through dramatic color and texture use. Instead of the deep browns often used for fauxtina divers, Seiko has opted for a mid-gray hue for the SPB237's dial.
Interestingly, in initial images, this color appears to fluctuate between dusty brown and mossy green undertones, straddling the line between warm and cool neutral tones. Seiko also adds a textured dial to the SPB237, as seen in many other modern vintage reissues, but instead of the grainy matte finish typical of many Swiss offerings, this watch features a nuanced, deeply carved vertical texture reminiscent of both stones and tree bark.
Seiko has traditionally excelled in dial finishing, and the intricate surface here is likely to continue this trend. Seiko highlights this surface with a light khaki color using its proprietary Lumibrite lume, designed to complement the earthy tones of the design. Overall, the textures and colors used here pleasantly mimic the feel of a tropical dial, but the path the SPB237 takes to achieve this look is still distinctly Seiko in the initial images.
The Seiko Prospex SPB239 model, inspired by Seiko's first diver, the legendary 1965 62MAS, has a simpler and more classic look than its counterpart. Sharing the same base as the 2020 model SPB147, the Prospex SPB239's stainless steel case measures 40.5mm in diameter. The skin diver design is a cornerstone of the brand's vintage diver offerings: squared-off lugs, an unguarded screw-down pillbox crown, and a broad polished bevel running the length of the case from lug tip to lug tip. The radially brushed black bezel insert on the SPB239 is a distinctive element of the current generation of 62MAS reissues, giving them a rich visual texture and a more premium feel compared to cheaper Prospex models. The SPB239 takes another step forward by adding an engraved diving scale, providing this model with greater depth and a warm vintage appearance thanks to its khaki color paint.
Like the SPB237, the Seiko Prospex SPB239 aims to convey the feel of an aging tropical dial, but the brand takes this inspiration in a completely different direction. As in the other model, the SPB239's rectangular applied 62MAS-style indices and faceted baton hands are coated with khaki-colored Lumibrite, but here this sandy vintage tone is enhanced by the dial text and the outer minute track, presented in a more austere pale yellow tone. The main dial surface features a sunburst finish, but in photographs, it appears much less dynamic than the sunburst dials on other current 62MAS models.
This surface also strives to convey the feel of a fading tropical dial, and Seiko seeks to achieve this effect subtly, avoiding the mahogany brown tones often used for this effect. In images, the SPB239 model aims to mimic the look of a dial just beginning to show signs of tropical fading, rather than the deep chocolate hues of a late-stage tropical patina. To depict this, Seiko gives the SPB239 dial a very light teak brown tint, which is only visible in photos thanks to its sunburst effect. Subtle enough to go unnoticed, yet patinated without becoming gaudy, the dial of the Seiko Prospex SPB239 takes its own unique path to one of the most popular looks in modern watchmaking.
The Seiko Prospex SPB237 and Seiko Prospex SPB239 are powered by the automatic 6R35 movement. The 6R35 is a modern mid-range automatic movement from Seiko, with a reliable 70-hour power reserve and a slightly slow frequency of 21,600 beats per hour. One of the standout features of the Seiko Prospex SPB237 and Prospex SPB239 models is Seiko’s first-ever fabric straps designed for diving. The brand claims these new polyester NATO-style straps more than meet the demands of underwater use, with tensile strength four times that of standard NATO straps, along with superior sun-fade resistance, flexibility, and breathability.
Many of these qualities are due to the traditional Japanese Seichu weaving pattern used to create these straps, which has been used for centuries to create the traditional obijime cord for securing kimono belts. This adds a classically Japanese texture to the overall look, strengthening the brand’s heritage in contrast to its European competitors. Each model comes with two such straps: the SPB237 uses olive green and granite gray straps, while the SPB239 features dark chocolate brown and desert tan straps.
With rich tropical-style textures and a distinctly Japanese appearance, the Seiko Prospex SPB237 and Seiko Prospex SPB239 are stylish and detailed contenders in the vintage-style diving sector, with enough personality to stand out from the crowd.
The Seiko Prospex SPB239 will be available in Seiko boutiques and selected authorized dealers in June 2021 priced at 1250 euros, while the Seiko Prospex SPB237 will debut in Seiko boutiques and selected authorized dealers in July 2021 priced at 1350 euros. For more detailed information, please visit the brand's website.