For regular readers, it is no surprise that we have a deep passion for indie watch creations; indeed, it is the reason for our existence.
While we do cover more than just high-class artisanal watches, independent watchmaking is part of our core focus. Discovering new brands and projects from all corners of the globe makes our hearts race and juices flow. This is why, and because creativity is finding its expression in unprecedented watches, we have examined six newly created independent brands - from intricate Métiers d’Art to DIY desk clocks - and everything in between!
Fleming Watches Series One Launch Edition
The story of Fleming Watches is an example of a collector fulfilling the dream of creating their own brand. American Thomas Fleming gathered several renowned industry partners and created the Fleming Series One. These alluring showcase watches feature several stunning details, such as skeletonized lugs. The 38.5 mm wide and 9 mm thick case can be made of gold, platinum, or tantalum - a rather heavy metal with a dark gray sheen. The dials have a classic design but can be crafted from various materials and with different finishes, such as guilloché or aventurine. Turning the watch over reveals more of the splendor of the hand-wound FM-01 movement, developed in collaboration with Chronode (Jean-François Mojon).
The release is very limited, with prices starting at 45,500 Swiss francs.
For more information, visit Fleming.Watch.
Quick facts - 38.5 x 9 mm - case in platinum, rose gold, or tantalum, matte and polished - sapphire glass front and back - multi-component handmade dial with enamel, guilloché, hammered texture, or aventurine - applied numerals and polished hands - small seconds dial - caliber FM-01, made with Jean-François Mojon (Chronode) - 21,600 vph - power reserve 168 hours - power reserve indicator on movement side - alligator leather strap - 25 pieces in tantalum, 7 in gold or platinum - 45,500 Swiss francs (tantalum) - 48,500 Swiss francs (rose gold) - 51,500 Swiss francs (platinum)
ALTO Watches ART 01
A completely different model, at least externally, is the ALTO Watches ART 01. These unconventionally shaped watches draw inspiration from the 1970s, and it shows! The wedge-shaped case in grade 5 titanium, 41 mm wide, refreshes the design, and faceted sapphire crystals are fitted on the front and back. The dial is made of seven elements and finished with matte black lacquer with faceted hands indicating the time. But there is an intriguing twist: the central seconds hand rotates counterclockwise! This is powered by an automatic caliber with a micro-rotor developed by Barth Nussbaumer and movement specialist Cercle des Horlogers.
The first batch of 25 pieces comes on a black FKM rubber strap and is priced at 19,000 euros.
For more information, visit AltoWatches.com.
Quick facts - 41 mm width - wedge-shaped case in grade 5 titanium, hand-satin finish - faceted sapphire glass front and back - water resistance 40 m - matte dial with bead-blasted finish - faceted hands with Super-LumiNova - caliber A01, jointly developed with Cercle des Horlogers - automatic with micro-rotor - 28,800 vph - power reserve 48 hours - counterclockwise seconds hand - FKM rubber strap - limited to 25 numbered pieces - 19,000 euros
Renaud Tixier Monday
The Monday watch is the result of collaboration between two generations of watchmakers: Dominique Renaud (of Renaud & Papi fame) and Julien Tixier. The duo combined efforts to create Renaud Tixier, and the first watch is something special! The reimagining of the micro-rotor concept to include a spring-loaded mechanism that winds it when empty is just part of this idea. This is done to combat the low winding efficiency of micro-rotors. The Monday watch, housed in a very impressive movement visible both from the back and partially from the front, comes in rose or white gold cases with slate gray dials. The first watches on calf or alligator leather straps will be presented to clients later this year.
The price for the Renaud Tixier Monday is 79,000 Swiss francs (excluding VAT).
More information can be found at RenaudTixier.com.
Quick facts - 40.8 x 11 mm - case in 18k rose or white gold - sapphire glass front and back - water resistance 30 m - slate or gray metallic dial, sunburst finish - caliber RVI2023 - automatic with micro-rotor - spring winding mechanism "Dancer" - 18,000 vph - power reserve 60+ hours - 315 components - calf or alligator leather strap with hand-stitching - gold clasp - first deliveries expected late 2024 - 79,000 Swiss francs (excluding taxes)
Guebly Chapitre 1
Guebly is a horological adventure by collector and entrepreneur Adnan Kerd, and its debut model is Chapitre 1. This first chapter, which translates to "chapter" in French, features an angular grade 5 titanium case with a diameter of 42 mm and a height of 10.56 mm. The modern design is complemented by a sunburst dial, central hour and minute hands, and retrograde 30-second indication. The caliber 2131, which powers the watch, is a heavily modified version of Olivier Mory's micro-rotor automatic. However, the finish of this movement goes far beyond what we've seen before!
The watch on a grained calf leather strap, released in a limited series of 100 pieces, is priced at 38,900 Swiss francs.
More information can be found at Guebly.com.
Quick facts - 42 mm x 10.56 mm - case in grade 5 titanium, satin-finished - sapphire glass front and back - water resistance 100 m - blue sunburst dial - retrograde 30-second indication - caliber 2131 (Olivier Mory's base architecture) - automatic with micro-rotor - 215 components - 28,800 vph - power reserve 70 hours - COSC certified - calf leather strap with rubber lining and titanium clasp and velcro - limited to 100 pieces, maximum 15 per year - 38,900 Swiss francs
Maison Alcée Percée
An independent horological workshop of a different kind is Maison Alcée, founded by Alcy Montfort and her husband Benoit. Instead of watches, they decided to create clocks, specifically, a set of clocks that you can assemble yourself! The clocks, standing 160 mm tall and 100 mm in diameter, can be built in horizontal or vertical orientation. Purchasing one of these sets, which includes additional options like a chime mechanism (surcharge of 1,400 euros), provides a genuine watchmaking experience. Maison Alcée supplies everything needed, including all components, tools, and very detailed instructions.
- Prices start from 5,500 euros, with several finishing options for the frame and parts. Give it a try, I am sure you won't regret it!
More information can be found at Maison-Alcee.com.
Quick facts - height 160 mm x diameter 100 mm - stainless steel case - pastel pink or blue details, or black PVD-coated case with gold details - roller stops for horizontal configuration - 900 grams - open dial with central hour and minute hands - optional chime mechanism with silent mode - 18,000 vph - power reserve 14 days - supplied with tools and instructions - price from 5,500 euros, chime mechanism available for 1,400 euros
Taos Watches
Introducing Taos Watches - a unique brand offering a combination of extremely thin Métiers d’Art dials and high-level watchmaking. Taos is a collaboration between watchmaker Olivier Go and Atelier Olivier Vaucher (not to be confused with a movement manufacturer!). Atelier Olivier Vaucher is a renowned and highly skilled dial maker and decorator. Each dial in the first series of seven watches is truly unique: miniature hand-painting, enameling, engraving, and more. All are encased in a 38 mm wide and 10 mm diameter case in rose or white gold, with or without diamonds. The automatic caliber VOP318 is made by Telos, but the finishing is done in-house.
- Prices start from 110,000 Swiss francs for the Ondes model with a finely engraved multilayer white mother-of-pearl dial, echoing the engraving on the movement.
More information can be found at TaosWatches.com.
Quick facts - 38 mm x 10 mm - case in white or rose gold, matte and polished - sapphire glass front and back - unique Métiers d’Art dials, handcrafted by Atelier Olivier Vaucher - leaf-shaped hour and minute hands - caliber VOP138, made by Telos - hand engraving by Atelier Olivier Vaucher - automatic winding - 28,800 vph - power reserve 72 hours - custom leather strap for each version - series of 7 unique pieces - prices from CHF 110,000 to CHF 150,000