Another Friday - another list.
Having chosen our five favorite watches of the 1980s and 1990s, it's time to move to the 2000s. By the start of the new millennium, mechanical watches had returned in all their glory. If you were familiar with the watch industry in the early 2000s, you surely noticed the rise of large watches. Brands like Panerai, Audemars Piguet, and IWC released models that dominated the first years of the new decade. However, since this is WatchTested's list of current favorites from that era, different criteria apply. Choosing the top five was not easy, but we managed to create a list with genuine neo-vintage gems.
Criteria for Choosing the Best Watches of the 2000s
Before moving on to the list of five iconic watches of the 2000s, it's worth explaining our approach. First, while it's hard to deny that large watches were a trend of the early 2000s, not all of them became classics that collectors still appreciate and seek. Nonetheless, it's impossible to ignore the role of large watches in popularizing mechanical models among a broader audience. That's why we included them in this list. Without further delay - let's move to our five favorites of the 2000s.
Panerai Luminor 1950 “Fiddy” PAM00127
The first model on our list is one of the defining watches of the decade. The Panerai Luminor 1950 PAM00127, also known as “Fiddy,” became a real hit among Panerai collectors. According to legend, the watch got its nickname thanks to the famous rapper 50 Cent, who wore the PAM00127 and, when asked about the watch, replied: “This is my Fiddy.” The PAM00127 was released in 2002 as a modern version of the legendary modified Rolex 6152/1 - one of the six vintage Panerai watches handed over to the Vendôme group upon acquiring the brand in 1997. These watches served as the basis for the design of modern Luminor.
The 2002 version features a stainless steel case with a diameter of 47 mm, just like the original. The main difference is the dial with the “1950” inscription at the bottom, indicating a limited series of 1950 pieces. For some collectors, this spoiled the tribute to the legendary classic. However, the large sandwich dial with contrasting gold hands protected by a highly domed sapphire crystal is impressive.
Inside the case is the COSC-certified OP XI movement based on the Unitas 6497-2. Panerai modified the caliber by adding a swan-neck regulator and redesigned bridges. The movement operates at a frequency of 21,600 vibrations per hour, contains 17 jewels, and provides a power reserve of 56 hours. Additionally, the movement is decorated with repeating Panerai branding.
It is great to observe this modernized and beautifully decorated caliber through the sapphire crystal case back. Overall, the PAM00127 is a classic with character that inspired the success of Luminor. Today, finding such watches is not difficult, and the price ranges from approximately €8,000 to €15,000.
Rolex Submariner “Kermit” ref. 16610LV
The choice of Rolex model was between the original and bright Milgauss ref. 116400GV and the Submariner ref. 16610LV “Kermit.” This Submariner was released in 2003 to celebrate the model's 50th anniversary. In my opinion, it is the only Submariner with a green bezel that looks truly stunning. All subsequent models received green Cerachrom inserts, which cannot compare with the beautiful green aluminum bezel of the Kermit.
The green bezel pairs perfectly with the black Maxi dial. I much prefer this dial with large hour markers compared to the standard versions of the Submariner ref. 16610 and ref. 14060 of that period. The visual balance is perfect, and the large markers give the watch a modern look. Although initially Rolex fans did not line up for this Submariner, over time the color combination of the 40-mm model became popular.
Inside the case is the legendary Rolex 3135 caliber - an automatic movement operating at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour with a power reserve of 48 hours. This caliber was used for almost 30 years until it was replaced by the 3235 in 2015. It is known for its reliability and high performance.
Collectors highlight various bezel variations released during the production period from 2003 to 2010. Early models had the so-called “Flat 4” - a flat top of the number 4 on the bezel.
Additionally, the color of the green bezel changed over time, with some inserts acquiring an olive tint, earning the nickname “B1” or “Bertolli.” Overall, these are some of the most attractive Submariners on the market, with prices ranging from €10,000 to €20,000 depending on condition.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” ref. 15202ST
At SIHH 2000, Audemars Piguet introduced the Royal Oak “Jumbo” ref. 15202ST - the successor to ref. 15002, which in turn replaced the legendary Royal Oak ref. 5402, produced in 1996-1997. Ref. 15202 remained in the collection until 2022, when a successor was introduced for the 50th anniversary of the Royal Oak. Over two decades, this model became incredibly popular. Despite retaining the reference, in 2012 the brand updated the dial design. To understand the changes, let's look at the first series of ref. 15202.
Compared to its predecessor ref. 15002, the first series of ref. 15202 received an updated dial: the word “Automatic” was moved up, and numbers appeared on the minute scale every five minutes, whereas previously there were only markers. As a result, the “Swiss Made” inscription was raised and placed on either side of the hour marker at “6.” The innovations did not change the overall image of the Royal Oak “Jumbo,” but with such an iconic design, changes always require caution.
The case was also updated by adding a sapphire crystal to the back cover. This was not new to the “Jumbo” in general - the special anniversary model ref. 14802 had the same element - but it was the first time for a standard model. Thanks to this, you can observe the legendary 2121 caliber - an automatic with 36 jewels, based on the Jaeger-LeCoultre 920, operating at a frequency of 21,600 vibrations per hour and with a power reserve of 40 hours. The ability to see the mechanism in action adds romance to this series.
The first series of ref. 15202 was produced until 2012, when Audemars Piguet changed the dial design: they removed the Arabic numerals, moved the AP logo down, reduced the Petite Tapisserie pattern, and made the date window black with white print. Today, the first series ref. 15202ST can be purchased for €45,000–€80,000.
IWC Big Pilot’s Watch ref. IW5002
Undoubtedly, the IWC Big Pilot’s Watch ref. IW5002 deservedly makes this list. The model debuted at Baselworld 2002 and became one of the most iconic IWC watches. Moreover, it became defining for the era of large watches in the early 2000s. The case has a diameter of 46.2 mm, a thickness of 15.8 mm, and a lug-to-lug length of 56.4 mm. Amusingly, these watches were still smaller than the 55-mm IWC Beobachtungsuhren (B-Uhren) on which they were based. In 1940, IWC supplied 1,000 of these watches to the German Luftwaffe - “Grosse Fliegeruhr,” which translates to “Big Pilot’s Watch.”
IWC designers updated the dial, making it more elegant: they used a different font for the numbers and removed the markers at the 2, 3, and 4 o'clock positions to make room for the 7-day power reserve indicator. There is no number at “6,” where a date window with a white disc and black print is located, somewhat standing out from the overall style. The signature marker at “12” and the diamond-shaped crown remain.
The initial crowns with a fish image were problematic - they leaked, allowing moisture and dust inside. In response, the brand replaced them with crowns engraved with “Probus Schaffhausen.” Inside is the proprietary caliber 5011 - an automatic movement operating at a frequency of 18,000 vibrations per hour, with 44 jewels and an impressive power reserve of 168 hours, which can be monitored on the dial. Completing the look is a brown crocodile leather strap with rivets, which securely fastens the watch to the wrist. Today, the IW5002 is an industry icon and a coveted collector's item, available for €6,000–€12,000.
Omega Seamaster Professional Ploprof 1200M ref. 224.30.55.21.01.001
The fifth and final model on our list is the easiest to choose. The Omega Seamaster Professional Ploprof 1200M ref. 224.30.55.21.01.001 is undoubtedly a controversial but our favorite Omega of the 2000s. The watch was introduced in 2009 as the successor to the legendary Seamaster 600 “PloProf” of the 1970s. Omega accomplished the nearly impossible task of making a modern reissue better than the original not only technically but also visually.
The hands are an excellent example of improvements: the designers abandoned the truncated hour hand of the 70s and created a more harmonious one. The minute hand and bezel release button are in the same bright orange hue, unlike the original with different orange and red accents. The date window is neatly placed between 4 and 5 o'clock, with a black disc and white print, making it noticeable only when necessary. As a result, the watch looks significantly better than its predecessor.
However, these watches are not for everyone. The asymmetrical stainless steel case measuring 55×48 mm is not only specific in style but also designed for a large wrist. If you look closely, the main shape of the case is symmetrical, and the asymmetry is created by functional elements on the sides: the screw-down crown on the left and the additional “column” on the right with the orange bezel release button. This creates a unique image, perfectly complemented by the steel mesh bracelet. Overall, the watch inspires admiration.
Inside is the proprietary Omega 8500 caliber - an automatic with a co-axial escapement, operating at a frequency of 25,200 vibrations per hour and with a power reserve of 60 hours. It is the perfect movement for the 279-gram steel monster. The Ploprof is not only a tool for extreme diving but also a watch with an expressive design that matches its functionality. The steel model was discontinued in 2019, while the titanium version remained in the catalog. In 2023, Omega reintroduced the steel Ploprof in the Summer Blue Seamaster collection. However, the true classic Ploprof remains this model, which can be purchased today for €6,000–€9,500.
Conclusion: The Best Iconic Watches of the 2000s
So here are five classic models of the 2000s. These watches defined the style and status of the watch industry in the era of the revival of mechanical models. Of course, there are many other worthy options, and I want to pass the question to you: which of our five favorites do you like the most? What other watches from the 2000s deserve attention? Write in the comments, and next week we will prepare a new list for you!