Today we are reviewing the vintage watch Movado Disco Volante. These are beautiful watches with an incredible case.
This is also the first article I've written about Movado. I hope it's good, because we're in for more articles about this forgotten brand soon.
Since visiting London, my interest in watches from the 1930s-1950s has sharply increased. Tanks, date indicators, and dress watches are the styles that have recently appeared in my collection. Today's Movado Disco Volante falls into the latter category but is not a typical formal specimen. As we will see, the small details are simply incredible. This is yet another reminder that there are amazing vintage watches not only from the usual brands.
Disco Volante - What's in a Name?
The historical and modern watch world is full of nicknames. Some are puzzling, others seem quite fitting. "Disco Volante," which translates from Italian as "flying saucer," seems fitting for today's watch. This nickname is associated with the shape of the case and the stepped bezel. A quick internet search revealed many specimens fitting this description. Some lack lugs, others are more traditional. However, a common feature is the stepped bezel.
Patek Philippe 2552 Calatrava
I find it necessary to talk about the watch that undoubtedly inspired the creation of today's Movado Disco Volante. Patek Philippe introduced its first automatic caliber 12-600 in 1954. To house it, the brand chose a stunning 36mm gold Disco Volante case, naming it Calatrava ref. 2552. It featured a characteristic crown with the "PP" signature, recessed into the case. Some might say this crown disrupts the perfect UFO case shape, but I find it beautiful. As with many other Calatrava models, the robust lugs add strength to the overall design.
A Few Words About Movado
I was brought a wonderful assortment of vintage Movado watches that blew my mind. Their quality surprised me: they were equipped with in-house movements and cases from high-end manufacturers. Since then, I haven't stopped hunting them. Interestingly, despite a deep and intriguing catalog, vintage Movado watches are practically not covered. Perhaps the reason is that the modern Movado brand shows no apparent interest in its history. Another problem is that, despite once being one of the largest watch brands, finding decent vintage Movado is incredibly difficult. A small group of avid collectors seems to absorb them, while the remnants are generally undesirable. Most often, they suffer from restored or corroded dials. Therefore, when the opportunity to purchase a magnificent specimen arose, I seized it.
Movado Disco Volante
It was an ordinary evening when I was sent a WhatsApp photo of a beautiful gold Movado. The watch looked unworn and had a beautiful case design. The next news was unexpected. The seller had two identical watches in similar condition. I decided to take a closer look, and that's when my colleague, with whom I was having a pint, mentioned the "Disco Volante" case and manual-winding movement. Questions and answers followed, and I agreed to buy the slightly more patinated model for 1,000 pounds. So what did I buy?
These Movado are beautiful dress watches measuring 35mm × 38mm, made of 9-carat gold. We saw 9-carat gold on the Universal Genève Microtor watches I reviewed earlier this year. It was and remains a popular gold standard for the British market. Thus, the Disco Volante case is manufactured in the UK. The case manufacturer, DS&S (David Shackman & Sons), was a highly respected firm in Chesham, near London. Inspection of the inner side of the back case indicates the manufacturer and gives us important clues about the watch's age. This handy site allows us to decipher our observations. The leopard's head hallmark indicates the London assay office. The letter "C" suggests that the watch case was made in 1958.
A Stunning Case
If a watch earns its nickname for its case design, it must be good. Fortunately, the Movado Disco Volante does not disappoint. I would bet that this DS&S case rivals the best Swiss cases I've seen. I'll say right away that this Movado combines thick lugs with an elegant stepped case. The stepped part is a removable bezel, but the "shutter line" is so tight that it seems part of the main case. Only upon close inspection can you notice a slight notch that will help remove it if necessary. I very much doubt this rim has ever been separated from the case.
Strangely enough, the best view of the Movado Disco Volante is when looking at the watch from below, from the lugs. This allows you to see the incredibly thin and graceful edges of the case. In particular, the edge on the "9 o'clock" side is an absolute marvel, and polishing it would be completely unnecessary. It's razor-thin and reminds me of the Master Ultra Thin that Jaeger-LeCoultre created for the "King's Man" movie in 2021. The pinnacle of the UFO-like shape is the domed acrylic crystal, which smoothly, almost seamlessly merges with the case and brings the watch's thickness to 8.5mm. With such a case, it's sad that the British watch industry has practically disappeared.
More Details
Unfortunately, the Movado Disco Volante does not have a gold crown with an emblem like the Patek 2552. However, the unsigned crown has a recessed knob, with its main part flush with the case edge. Here, too, the precision of execution deserves admiration. The back of the watch mirrors the front design with a stepped snap-back case. It still has its original linear-brushed finish, indicating that these watches were barely worn. The trapezoidal winding stem tube is exposed and beautifully formed. Finally, note the hallmarks on the back sides of the two lugs.
Dial - The Perfect Partner
It's good that Movado showed serious restraint when creating the dial for the Disco Volante. Such a beautiful case requires a complementary partner, not a scene-stealer. The silver dial is paired with applied gold indices and a gorgeous applied "Movado" logo. Large dauphine hands pay homage to the Calatrava model. This is a good, but rarely seen example of how not to try to fix what's not broken. A simple cross is used for the sub-seconds indicator, combined with a thin gold hand. Overall, the design is perfectly proportioned, making the watch appear larger than its 35mm size.
Manual Winding Instead of Automatic
The Movado Disco Volante uses the proprietary caliber 205. This is an ultra-thin movement with 17 jewels, a diameter of 22.8mm, manual winding, and a frequency of 18,000 vph. This departs from the automatic caliber typical for Patek, but it reminds us of how exotic automatic watches were at the time. However, it suits my preferences because I prefer winding watches. As for the movement, it is undoubtedly vintage, with several bridges. My watch winds excellently, but it will soon head for its first service!
Magic on the Wrist
Recent acquaintance with watches 70-90 years old left me puzzled about size. The more watches I try, the more I am convinced that metrics like diameter or lug-to-lug distance are just numbers. These watches look much larger than their size and wear beautifully. The understated dial, massive yet short lugs, and 18mm lug width perfectly complement each other. If the watch were significantly larger, it would lose its elegance. Watches like these Movado Disco Volante likely came with a black or brown reptile leather strap about 65 years ago. I paired them with a taupe strap from Wind Vintage, and it doesn't look bulky.
Farewell Thoughts
More than six decades later, the Movado Disco Volante still captivates the imagination. The design strongly resembles much more expensive watches, but I don't consider them a direct imitation. The quality of the case and dial is impressive, as is the use of the in-house movement. The 9-carat gold case doesn't seem special, but I like its less vibrant shine and increased durability. Overall, these are great watches at a price lower than most modern stainless-steel items. Of course, finding such watches is a real challenge, but sometimes they appear in pairs.