For many of us, today's announcement of the TAG Heuer Formula 1 × Kith watch marks a return to where it all began.
The original Formula 1 watch, released in 1986, was revolutionary, and for many collectors, it became their first luxury Swiss watch. This might sound like a "marketing statement," but for me, it's true, as it was the first good watch I owned.
The message from TAG Heuer is perfectly timed! I say this with love because I am confident that the return of the original 1986 Formula 1 model was a carefully considered decision. Should the watch change? Should it be larger? Or should the materials differ from the original? Fortunately, as we will see, the new TAG Heuer Formula 1 × Kith model has returned as it should be.
The Original from 1986
The first TAG Heuer Formula 1 watches appeared in 1986 and were groundbreaking. They were affordable, vibrant, and importantly, Swiss-made. The watches released from 1986 to 1990 had 35mm cases made of steel or fiberglass with a sandblasted finish. These were the first watches released under the TAG Heuer brand, and they became a massive hit. Press materials report that over three million watches were sold. This gave TAG Heuer the much-needed stability injection and helped them become the brand they are today.
I received such a watch as a gift from my aunt and wore it for many years. They still bring a smile to my face when I wear them on occasion. Since 1990, TAG Heuer has released many different Formula 1 models, but none have been as magical as the first. Now, the magic has returned with the TAG Heuer Formula 1 × Kith model!
TAG Heuer Formula 1 × Kith
TAG Heuer decided to collaborate with the clothing brand Kith to bring back the original Formula 1 model. The company's founder, Ronnie Fieg, is a well-known collector with a range of watches. However, like many of us, the original Formula 1 was his first good watch, and he has amassed an impressive collection of these pieces. His collection features a wide range of models - from the ordinary to the rare. He also openly speaks of his love for these watches, and let's face it, he has a very popular brand. So, the partnership makes sense. As we will see, the watches have been updated to be contemporary, with reminders of branding. Nevertheless, they are quite fitting.
The new TAG Heuer Formula 1 × Kith line will feature ten different models. All models are limited editions, and their availability varies. If this sounds confusing, it is! However, I will try to explain the differences. As for common points, TAG Heuer mentions that it tracked down the manufacturer of the original 80s model cases and is using them again.
Specifications
The size remains the same at 35mm, but fiberglass versions have been replaced with stainless steel with PVD coating. Interestingly, the unidirectional bezels are still plastic, but apparently, that's how it is. If you ever owned such a watch, they were prone to wear. The thickness is 9.45mm, and the lug-to-lug length is 40mm. A pleasant modern update is the use of flat sapphire crystal. The water resistance is 200 meters.
The screw-down case back of the original Formula 1 model featured the TAG Heuer shield. The new models contain a new logo combining Kith and Heuer into a shield. The slogan "Kith & Kin," used by the clothing brand, is inscribed on the case back along with the number of pieces. Unfortunately, the original round plastic watch box is not returning. Nevertheless, the packaging looks cool and is adorned with the shield and Kith branding. As for the 18mm straps and bracelets, TAG Heuer has updated the strap, replacing the awkward plastic with much more pliable rubber. The bracelet has also changed significantly, moving away from the old safety clasp. It now features a button lock.
Models Only for Kith
There are five different exclusive Kith models with colored cases that come with rubber straps. Note the Kith Heuer shield on the straps. Additionally, the phrase "Just Us," a nod to Fieg's family circle, is present on all models above the six o'clock mark. Each model will be released in a limited edition of only 250 pieces and will come in packaging matching the color theme.
Each model's name is inspired by cities where Kith currently has a boutique. The black and yellow model is "Toronto," the all-black is "New York," the multicolored is "Hawaii," the red is "Tokyo," and the beige is "Miami." The price for these models will be 1,500 Swiss Francs.
Furthermore, there are two steel models on a bracelet that are Kith-only exclusives. 350 of each will be available. The blue bezel variant is named the "Los Angeles," and the green bezel model is called the "Paris." Note the inscribed "Kith & Kin" on the top of the case at 12 o'clock. These are also priced at CHF 1,500.
Models Only for TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer will sell two models exclusively in its boutiques. These models will be available only at TAG Heuer Miami AD from May 3, with a global launch on May 6. TAG Heuer will release 850 pieces priced at 1,500 Swiss Francs.
Joint Offer, Which is Also My Favorite
Finally, within the TAG Heuer Formula 1 × Kith line, there is a joint model which will be available at both Kith and TAG Heuer. 1350 pieces of the traditional stainless steel model with a greenish-yellow finish will be available for 1500 Swiss Francs. This model will only be available on a 5-row stainless steel bracelet.
For Those with Very Deep Pockets
For those wishing to assemble a TAG Heuer Formula 1 collection to rival Ronnie Fieg's, a set of all ten watches in a special case is available. 75 such sets will be released, priced at 18,000 Swiss Francs.
Conclusions on the Formula 1 × Kith Models
Overall, I am glad that the original Formula 1 models have returned to the scene. Furthermore, aside from the cosmetic touches related to Kith, they are quite authentic. I like the modern touches, such as the sapphire glass, and I don't even mind the new bracelets and straps. The use of PVD coating instead of fiberglass also seems like a more stylish touch. So, what's not to like?
Well, as you can imagine, I'm not thrilled with the idea of another set of limited watches. Even if I find these watches a bit pricey, I'm sure they'll sell out instantly. And then we can watch all this madness unfold on the secondary market. Watches once meant for mass consumption have now turned into something entirely different. As for the physical aspects of the watches, the only real "miss" is the lack of a fully luminescent dial. It's a distinctive feature of these watches, and I don't understand why it wasn't included.
Final Thoughts
If the availability of these TAG Heuer Formula 1 × Kith models is indeed a concern, note two points. First, I doubt a company the size of TAG would release such a "new" model in such a limited series and then discontinue it. I expect a regular edition to follow (note: I have no information on this). Who knows if they will also be 35mm, but I anticipate something in the future. Second, the vintage Formula 1 secondary market is active, but good examples still cost significantly less than these new models. Consider if you will really wear a 35mm watch enough to justify the amount some dealer will undoubtedly ask for it. A vintage model in decent condition is no less appealing. I am incredibly curious to hear your thoughts on these watches, and I look forward to your comments.
For more detailed information about the new Formula 1 × Kith line, visit the official TAG Heuer website.