This week, we continue the theme initiated in the last issue, based on the discussion that took place three weeks ago.
We chose the 90s because this era saw new technologies significantly improve production quality and shorten development and engineering times. As a result, most watch brands in the 1990s introduced noticeably higher-quality models that can confidently be worn every day even today. After reviewing five Rolex models last week, we now turn our attention to Omega. This brand became one of the key players of the 90s with many outstanding watches. It's time to find out which five models we consider the best!
As we have mentioned, the 90s were a turning point in the watch world. Mechanical watches came back to the forefront after the quartz crisis. Omega gained significant momentum by releasing potential classics and forming interesting partnerships. That's why we decided to highlight five of our favorite Omega models from this decade. Remember, the important thing is not the release date, but whether these watches were in the brand's catalog in the 1990s. Without further ado - let's begin!
Omega Seamaster Professional 300M ref. 2531.80.00
The Omega Seamaster Professional 300M ref. 2531.80 marked the start of a new era in the Omega collection. It should be noted that the first models were the quartz Seamaster Professional 300M ref. 2541.80, worn by Pierce Brosnan in the film "GoldenEye" (1995). However, the mechanical version, widely known as the Bond watch, is of even greater interest to collectors. The quartz Seamaster Professional 300M ref. 2541.80 was introduced in 1993, replacing the Omega Seamaster 200M series. The new diver's watch design immediately stood out with its angular case lines.
The mechanical version Seamaster Professional 300M ref. 2531.80 features a 41mm diameter case, 11.5mm thickness, and 47mm lug-to-lug length. The case houses the signature bezel - one of the key features of the SMP 300M series. The blue dial is adorned with a delicate wave pattern that fans adore.
Combined with an outstanding stainless steel bracelet, this design became an industry classic. The initial releases used the automatic caliber 1109 based on the ETA 2892-2. It was soon replaced by caliber 1120 - a 23-jewel movement with an improved rotor for better efficiency. The caliber is COSC certified, operates at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour, and offers a power reserve of 44 hours.
This reliable movement remains relevant today, and the model is stylish and sought after more than three decades after its release. The Omega Seamaster Professional 300M ref. 2531.80 is a 90s classic that can be purchased at a reasonable price - approximately from 2.5 to 4 thousand euros. It's an excellent choice for everyday wear.
Omega Speedmaster Professional ref. 3570.50.00
Regular readers of WatchTested are likely already familiar with the Omega Speedmaster Professional ref. 3570.50. This "Speedy" is an excellent version of the classic Moonwatch, suitable for everyday use. It's no surprise that many of the WatchTested team own this model. The watch debuted in 1996 and remained in production until 2020, when it was replaced by the modern Moonwatch. The Speedmaster ref. 3570.50 case has a characteristic asymmetrical shape with a 42mm diameter with lyre-style lugs, a thickness slightly over 14mm with hesalite crystal, and a lug-to-lug length of 48.2mm.
The dial is a classic Moonwatch with three subdials and white hands. Inside is the reliable Omega 1861 manual-winding caliber - a successor to the legendary 861. The movement is based on the Lémania 1873, operates at a frequency of 21,600 vibrations per hour, contains 18 jewels, and provides a 48-hour power reserve.
The look is completed by a five-link bracelet, which underwent minor changes throughout production, such as different link tilts and engravings. In 1999, Omega updated the clasp by adding a button for convenience.
The Speedmaster 3570.50 can be found at a fairly accessible price - from 4 to 6 thousand euros for a specimen in excellent condition with box and papers. It is a true classic Moonwatch from the legendary series.
Omega Seamaster 300 GMT "50th Anniversary" ref. 2534.50.00
In honor of the Seamaster's 50th anniversary in 1998, Omega released the Seamaster 300M GMT ref. 2234.50. This GMT version of the "Bond" Seamaster stands out with a more restrained aesthetic compared to the diver model. The case remained signature - 41mm in diameter, 13mm in thickness, and 47mm between the lugs. The water resistance depth is 300 meters, like the divers.
The main difference is the bezel with a 24-hour GMT scale and large numerals. The black-silver division gives the watch a striking appearance.
The black dial with a wave pattern features hour markers that later appeared on the Seamaster Professional ref. 2254.50. This design debuted on the quartz version ref. 2264.50, also released in 1998. Sword-shaped hands refer to the classic Seamaster of the 1960s. Red accents include the GMT hand, the tip of the seconds hand, and the "GMT" inscription at the bottom of the dial.
Inside is the automatic Omega caliber 1128 based on the ETA 2892-A2, modified to Omega standards. Frequency is 28,800 vibrations per hour, with a power reserve of 44 hours. The movement is hidden behind a commemorative 50th-anniversary case back engraving, emphasizing the model's uniqueness. The bracelet is the classic Seamaster, which was also used on the "Bond" watches.
In 2003, Omega updated the model by replacing the bracelet with a simpler Speedmaster style with a dual-button clasp, which many liked. If you want a classic Seamaster, choose the early versions. Prices start at approximately 2.5 thousand euros and reach up to 4 thousand for good condition. It's an excellent choice for everyday wear.
Omega Speedmaster Professional X-33 ref. 3990.50
Another Omega classic from the 90s is the Speedmaster X-33. These watches are unforgettable after the first encounter. The story of their creation is even more impressive: the X-33 was developed together with NASA pilots and astronauts to meet the highest requirements for space missions. The result is an unusual analog Speedmaster with a digital display showing multiple functions useful in space.
Omega Speedmaster Professional X-33 ref. 3990.50
The unique design starts with a case size of 42.25 × 48 × 14.5mm. The thickness seems large, but this is due to the domed crystal and dual-layer case back with a resonance chamber for the alarm. The middle part of the case is not thick, making the X-33 comfortable to wear. The bezel is made of titanium with a polished aluminum insert. Four buttons and a crown control the functions.
Explosion of Popularity
The movement is a quartz Omega caliber 1666. In addition to the main time, it shows the date and day of the week, chronograph, second time zone, countdown timer, and mission timer (up to 999 days). There is an 80 dB alarm, a mission alarm, and an additional programmable alarm. The X-33 was produced with a titanium bracelet, red Kevlar strap, or black Coramide. The titanium bracelet is lightweight but makes the watch more technical and bulky, so many prefer straps.
After the Artemis II mission, the Speedmaster X-33 was back in the spotlight. Astronauts wore the second generation model released in 2001. This sparked a rise in demand for the classic X-33, including the first version. Expect prices to range from 2.5 to 3.5 thousand euros depending on condition and completeness.
Omega Speedmaster ref. 3594.50.00 "Replica"
Our last choice is not a replica, but a "Replica". Most are familiar with this term: it's a late 1990s Speedmaster that combines the 42mm Moonwatch case with a stainless steel bezel and Broad Arrow hands of the classic CK2915 model from 1957. The deep gray dial, applied logo, and hesalite crystal create a unique neo-vintage look that is perfect for everyday wear. Omega later changed the name from Replica to Relaunch, but we prefer the old name - it continues to surprise Speedmaster fans.
The Replica was released in 1997/1998 and produced until 2003. Despite being inspired by the first Speedmaster model, the watch didn't have vintage lume. The production took place before the retro hype started, so Omega used bright and clear Super-LumiNova on the hands and indices for a modern look. This is a 90s classic that feels like a modern watch with high build quality.
Style on the Strap
Inside the Replica is the reliable manual-winding caliber 1861 - the same as in the classic Moonwatch. It's the perfect movement for such an interpretation of the CK2915. The Replica has become its own neo-vintage classic. These watches are best showcased on a strap, where the utilitarian chronograph reveals its stylish side. The Replica is an excellent choice for everyday wear with a price around 3–4.5 thousand euros, making it the ideal fifth and final choice in our list of classic Omega watches from the 1990s.
Final Thoughts on Our Favorite Omega Models from the 1990s
That's it - our five favorite Omega models from the 1990s. We understand that the list focuses on the Speedmaster and Seamaster. However, these two lines offer classic models that are easy to wear every day and remain stylishly relevant.
Nonetheless, it's worth exploring other Omega collections from the 90s, such as De Ville and Constellation Manhattan. But since we're talking about our favorites, these are the ones. Now a question for you: which Omega from the 90s would you choose for everyday wear? Share in the comments, and we'll see you next week with a new list.