Dive watches were originally designed as professional tools for underwater use, and to this day remain some of the most reliable mechanical wristwatches.
Their characteristic features include high water resistance, a unidirectional rotating bezel for measuring dive time, and high-contrast dials with large hands and luminescent hour markers. Dive watches from the 1950s and 1960s typically had a diameter of no more than 40 mm, which by modern standards is considered quite compact.
However, in recent decades, the size of such watches has gradually increased. In addition to fashion trends, there are also technical reasons for this.
- First, to achieve ever higher water resistance, stronger cases, screw-down crowns, and reliable seals are required - all of which take up more space.
- Second, larger dials and expressive hands improve readability underwater - an important factor for their original function as a diving tool.
Therefore, many dive watch models range from 40 to 44 mm. Nevertheless, manufacturers are now responding to the growing demand for more compact cases. Modern unisex dive watches with a diameter of 36 to 39 mm offer the same functionality as larger counterparts, but look much more balanced on many wrists.
This makes them suitable for a wider audience - from those with slender wrists to those who prefer classic watch sizes. They combine the characteristic design of tool dive watches with a high level of comfort and practicality for everyday use.
This article presents the five most popular unisex dive watches on WatchTested.
Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Ref. 2551.80.00
Seamaster Professional Diver 300M (ref. 2551.80.00) is a midsize version of one of Omega's most famous dive watches. The model was introduced in the mid-1990s and was produced until the mid-2000s. It is based on the Seamaster Professional 300M (ref. 2531.80), which gained worldwide fame thanks to its role as James Bond's watch. However, with a case diameter of just under 36 mm, this unisex version is aimed at fans of classic sizes and offers a more compact alternative to the 'Bond' version with a diameter of 41 mm.
Distinctive design elements of these stainless steel watches include a blue unidirectional rotating dive bezel, a blue dial with a wave pattern, skeletonized hands, and a helium escape valve at the '10 o'clock' position. The screw-down crown and water resistance up to 300 m (30 bar, 984 feet) allow the Seamaster Diver 300M to meet all the requirements of modern dive watches. Inside is the automatic Omega caliber 1120 with a date function at the '3 o'clock' position. The certified chronometer is based on the proven ETA 2892-A2 and provides a power reserve of about 44 hours. Thanks to the combination of professional functionality, expressive design, and balanced proportions, the Seamaster Diver 300M 2551.80.00 remains one of Omega's most sought-after midsize models.
Breitling Superocean Automatic 36 A17377211A1S1
Superocean Automatic 36 (ref. A17377211A1S1) by Breitling combines the long tradition of the Superocean collection with compact dimensions and modern technologies. The history of this series began in 1957 when the manufacturer released its first wristwatches specifically designed for divers. The contemporary model continues this legacy in a midsize case, suitable for those looking for sporty dive watches with moderate proportions.
The 36 mm stainless steel case features a unidirectional rotating dive bezel with a white ceramic insert that matches the dial color. Square luminescent hour markers provide excellent readability even in low light. The watch comes on a white rubber strap, giving them a fresh and modern look. The Superocean Automatic 36 withstands dives up to 300 m (30 bar, 984 feet). Inside is the automatic Breitling caliber 17 - a COSC-certified chronometer based on the ETA 2824-2, with a power reserve of about 38 hours.
Zenith Defy Revival 03.A3648.670/21.M3648
Zenith Defy Revival A3648 (ref. 03.A3648.670/21.M3648) is a modern tribute to the Defy A3648 model of 1969. Due to its striking design, the watch is considered one of the most recognizable models from the manufacturer in Le Locle. In the new 2024 version, Zenith relies heavily on the historical model, combining its characteristic design with modern technologies. The 37 mm stainless steel case is crafted in the architecture typical of the Defy collection, with an octagonal case shape and a fourteen-sided bezel.
Orange accents on the dive bezel and minute scale of the dial stand out - a distinctive feature of the original. The black center of the dial, combined with luminescent hour markers and hands, ensures excellent readability. With water resistance up to 600 m (60 bar, 1969 feet), Zenith positions this model as a professional dive watch. At the heart of the mechanism is the proprietary Elite 670 caliber with a date function at the '4:30' position and a power reserve of about 50 hours. The successful combination of historical design, modern technology, and high functionality makes the Defy Revival A3648 one of the most authentic retro replicas of classic dive watches on the market.
Longines Legend Diver Black Dial L3.374.4.50.6
Longines introduced the Legend Diver model (ref. L3.374.4.50.6) - a unisex watch that combines the aesthetics of historical dive watches with modern technology. The design is based on the 1959 model, Longines' first dive watch with an internal rotating bezel. This characteristic feature remains the hallmark of the collection and gives the Legend Diver a unique look. The stainless steel case has a diameter of 36 mm. Special attention is drawn to the two screw-down crowns: one at the '2 o'clock' position controls the internal dive bezel.
The black dial with luminescent applied baton indices, interrupted by Arabic numerals at the '6', '9', and '12 o'clock' positions. The model features a date function at the '3 o'clock' position. The Legend Diver comes with a classic Milanese stainless steel bracelet. Water resistance up to 300 m (30 bar, 984 feet) meets the requirements of modern dive watches. Inside is the automatic Longines caliber L592.5 - a COSC-certified mechanism based on the ETA 2681 with a power reserve of about 45 hours.
Oris Aquis Date Upcycle Ref. 01 733 7770 4150-Set
Oris Aquis Date Upcycle (ref. 01 733 7770 4150-Set) combines the proven technologies of the Aquis collection with a sustainable approach to production. Since its launch in 2011, Aquis has become one of Oris's most successful dive models, known for its reliability, high functionality, and contemporary design. The special Upcycle edition draws attention to the problem of ocean plastic pollution.
The main feature of the model is the dial made from recycled PET plastic. The production process makes each dial unique in color and pattern, making each piece one-of-a-kind. Trapezoidal indices with luminescent coating are used as hour markers, and the date function is located at the '6 o'clock' position. The 36.5 mm stainless steel case is complemented by a unidirectional rotating dive bezel with a gray ceramic insert. Water resistance up to 300 m (30 bar, 984 feet) allows the watch to be used for serious underwater diving. Inside is the automatic Oris caliber 733-1 based on the Sellita SW200-1 with a power reserve of about 41 hours.