Some time has passed, and here is the new edition of our Speedy Tuesday series.
This week, I will review the five best modern steel Speedmaster models from the current Omega catalog. Although the Speedmaster has been continuously produced since 1957, the modern catalog remains fresh and interesting.
If You Could Only Buy One Modern Speedmaster…
In 2021, Omega introduced the current version of the Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional. The classic mechanical chronograph was updated with a new design and a new movement. Additionally, this model received the long-awaited new bracelet. The current version has been on the market for five years. During this time, there has been a minor upgrade to the clasp, and several additional variations of the Speedmaster Moonwatch have been released.
Recently, two bi-color models appeared, several versions in Moonshine and Sedna Gold, a Moonwatch with a white dial and a reverse panda, as well as several First Omega In Space models. If we exclude the Dark Side of the Moon series, Speedmaster '57, Speedmaster 38, and others, and focus only on the Moonwatch, there are 31 references in the lineup. These are models in steel, bi-color (steel and gold), gold, and platinum. Some models have several references due to different strap and bracelet options.
Which Omega Speedmaster Is Worth Buying?
One of the most common questions is which Speedmaster model is best to buy first. While I appreciate vintage Omega Speedmasters, it's often wiser to start with a modern model, especially if you're new to the world of watches. However, the most common question is simpler - which Speedmaster would be perfect for someone specific.
Previously, the answer was simple: you could choose a model with sapphire or Hesalite crystal, and most would choose the one closer to the historical original. Although Hesalite scratches more easily, scratches can be easily polished or the crystal replaced. After the Moonwatch update in 2021, the sapphire crystal model became the best-selling. But now, there are many additional variations of the Moonwatch and related models, which makes the choice more complicated.
In this article, I will highlight five steel models I would choose if I had to buy just one. The choice will not be easy, but it's helpful to narrow it down to a few options.
Classic Moonwatch with Hesalite Crystal
How many times I have recommended this model is hard to count. Whether it's the current reference 310.30.42.50.01.001 or the one that was available when I started collecting watches (reference 3570.50), this is always the starting point for the Moonwatch. The classic Speedmaster Professional with a black dial, Hesalite crystal, mechanical movement, aluminum bezel insert, and a steel case back with iconic engraving.
At a price of €7,700, this is the most affordable model of the five reviewed. In today's world, it's hard to find another chronograph in this price range that would generate the same interest. It was true when the retail price was around €4,000, and it remains relevant today despite price increases. The modern Moonwatch is inspired by the first Speedmaster Professional 105.012 model, introduced in 1964. Five years later, in 1969, this was the model worn by Edwin 'Buzz' Aldrin during the Apollo 11 moon landing.
The modern Speedmaster has retained a case design, hands, and dial very similar to the original 105.012. From many years of experience, I can say that the 42mm asymmetrical case feels more like 40mm on the wrist, as the extra two millimeters are for the crown guard. It is no larger than my 40mm sports Rolex models. The steel bezel measures 39.7mm - this parameter better reflects how the watch fits on the wrist. Plus, the current Moonwatch series bracelet is much more comfortable and better designed than the previous generation. The absence of massive end links allows the bracelet to sit better on a smaller wrist.
Moonwatch with White Dial
Except for a few prototypes, the white dial appeared in the Omega Speedmaster Professional collection only in 1997. At that time, the brand released a limited edition of 500 pieces for the Italian market. Collectors nicknamed it 'Albino'. In 2008, Omega introduced another white version, dedicated to Project Alaska - special watches developed for NASA in 1970. In this model, the dial was truly white, not slightly cream like the Albino.
In 2024, Omega decided to release a white Moonwatch Professional without a limited run. The model, first seen on Daniel Craig's wrist on the red carpet, went on sale a few months later (reference 310.30.42.50.04.001). It was dubbed 'Craig White'. It is available on a steel bracelet, rubber strap, and perforated leather strap.
Inside is the 3861 movement, as in the classic Moonwatch, but here it is visible through a sapphire transparent case back.
The lacquered white dial is the only difference from the sapphire version of the classic Moonwatch. The price is €9,000, just €100 more than the model with the black dial and sapphire crystal (reference 310.30.42.50.01.002).
Second Generation Speedmaster First Omega In Space
I remember well the presentation of the Speedmaster First Omega In Space at Baselworld 2012. The watch was partly based on the second-generation Speedmaster CK2998 model. Omega annually released commemorative editions, and FOiS marked the 50th anniversary of the first Speedmaster used in space by NASA astronaut Wally Schirra. Subsequently, limited CK2998 editions were released based on FOiS. However, FOiS production ceased at the end of 2020, when Omega introduced another Speedmaster model with a 39.7mm case and caliber 321.
In October 2024, the brand revived the First Omega In Space. The novelty received the 3861 movement, a blue dial, and a new domed sapphire crystal, almost identical in shape to the famous Hesalite crystal. This Speedmaster 'FOiS II' is an excellent option for those who find the Speedmaster Professional too large or prefer straight lugs instead of asymmetrical ones. The model comes with a steel bracelet with flat links, like the Speedmaster Calibre 321, but is also available on a leather strap (saving €400). The case back is engraved with 'The First Omega In Space' and the date this title was earned - October 3, 1962.
If you're looking for an alternative to the classic 42mm Speedmaster Professional, consider this blue model. I would recommend the version on a steel bracelet (reference 310.30.40.50.06.001, price €8,700), as purchasing the bracelet later would be relatively expensive. Meanwhile, you can choose any strap to your taste.
Speedmaster 'Reverse Panda'
I was a bit surprised by the Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional 'Reverse Panda' model. At first glance, it seemed that the designers were inspired by the Speedy Tuesday 2017 edition. Perhaps that is the case, but upon closer inspection, the new model differs in several key details. While the Speedy Tuesday 'Tribute to Alaska III' had a fully matte case and matte dial, the 'Reverse Panda' is based on the current Moonwatch and features a sapphire crystal.
The dial is coated in black lacquer, and the chronograph counters are situated on a separate white lacquered plate. There is a rhodium-plated frame around the subdials. On the dial is an applied Omega logo and rhodium hands. Unlike the standard Moonwatch, the 'Reverse Panda' has a ceramic bezel insert.
Otherwise, the watch is identical to the sapphire version of the Moonwatch on a steel bracelet, including a transparent case back with a caliber 3861 movement. The retail price is €10,200 (reference 310.30.42.50.01.004). This is a classic Speedmaster Professional with an interesting design accent that we have seen before in the Speedy Tuesday 'Tribute to Alaska III' 2017 edition. Since I love that model, this one also appeals to me.
Speedmaster Calibre 321
At the beginning of 2020, Omega introduced the Speedmaster Calibre 321. The 321 movement was revived in 2019 in a platinum version of the Speedmaster Professional with onyx and meteorite dials. The original caliber 321 was used in the Speedmaster from 1957 to about 1968, after which it was replaced by caliber 861. Both movements were developed by Lémania. After Lémania was acquired by Breguet in 1992, the rights to caliber 321 passed to Breguet. Omega negotiated with Breguet to reuse this movement, and since the original drawings were missing, they recreated it using tomographic technology.
For the steel model, Omega was inspired by the Speedmaster 105.003, using the exact example worn by NASA astronaut Gene Cernan in space and on the moon. The Speedmaster Calibre 321 is produced in a special workshop (or 'atelier', as it is called within the company), where they also make tourbillons. It is completely separate from Omega's main production lines.
The Speedmaster Calibre 321 reproduces the original 105.003 as closely as possible, but instead of Hesalite, it features a sapphire crystal, and the bezel is equipped with a ceramic insert with a white enamel tachymetric scale instead of aluminum. Through the sapphire window in the case back, you can admire the famous caliber 321. Previously, the bridges of the movement were copper-colored, but now Omega uses Sedna (rose) gold for the bridge coating. The clutch bridge is made from untreated German silver, as in the original 321, which was scanned for reproduction. It's all in the details.
Not Master Chronometer
The Speedmaster Calibre 321 comes on a bracelet with flat links, like the original 105.003. While all other Speedmasters come in a smaller Omega box, this model comes in a larger version of the packaging. It's not essential, but it's nice.
These watches are not certified as Master Chronometers, so don't expect the same accuracy as other models. Also, while you can swim with other models (just don't press the buttons or crown underwater), because the Master Chronometer requirements include water resistance, the Speedmaster Calibre 321 should not be used in water.
The price of the Speedmaster Calibre 321 (reference 311.30.40.30.01.001) is €17,100 - significantly higher than the other models in the review. It's not just about the historical movement and double assembly (which other brands also do). You will also notice more details on the dials of these watches. When I wear mine, they feel quite different from other Moonwatch or limited CK2998 editions. It's hard to put this feeling into words, but if you have the opportunity to try them on in an Omega boutique - do it.
Rating of Modern Steel Speedmaster
I haven't ranked these models in a particular order, although I have my favorites. If I had to choose just one, it would be the Speedmaster Calibre 321. These are the watches I wear most frequently from the entire collection. They are also the most expensive on the list, but considering the wrist time, I believe the money is well spent.
If you choose one model, it's hard to overlook the classic Moonwatch with Hesalite or sapphire crystal. Both options are good: Hesalite is closer to the original, while sapphire is more durable and heavier. The sapphire version has a transparent case back. For purists, the best options are likely the Speedmaster Calibre 321 and the Moonwatch with Hesalite. If you are more flexible in your choice, models with a white dial and 'Reverse Panda' will be an interesting alternative to the classic. The second generation Speedmaster First Omega In Space is an excellent variation with a dark blue sunray dial and, importantly, alpha hands.
For more information on the Omega Speedmaster collection and prices, visit the official brand website.